Eagle

That depends on whether the problem is in the transfer case, or in the differential or left front brakes. My first thought would be to pull the front wheel and inspect the caliper.

Payload for a standard (not MT) MJ is a bit over 1,400 pounds, so 500 pounds is about one-third of the payload, not one-half.

According to Joe at General Spring the military wrap spring is based on and rated the same as the MT spring. His words, not mine. "Based on and rated the same as" is not quite equal to "The military wrap springs are the MT springs." The factory MT springs were not military wrap, and direct replacements for the MT springs are not military wrap. The military wrap is an additional option on custom-made springs.

Be sure the cable doesn't have any sharp bends in it.

My guess is the headlight switch itself. Try jiggling the knob gently and see if that results in flickering of the lights.

Since he can fab, they are a possibility. But ... they're wider than the TJ/XJ/MJ axles. And that brought problems, because when Jeep made them wider they didn't make the fronts stronger. When people started putting big tires on them and actually using them like Jeeps, those wider axles bent. There's an aftermarket for kits to reinforce those axles. The ones I've seen consist of tubes that fit inside the OEM tubes to beef up the wall thickness (or lack thereof), and gussets to reinforce the Cs where they mate to the axles. Overall, for an MJ you're probably better off with the front axle from a TJ Rubicon.

This is the best way to go, IMHO. Also, are you looking for a flat, 4-wire connector, or a round, 7-wire connector?

I thought carparts was a listing service for junkyards. They sell new parts, too? What are the length and width measurements on your tank?

Cherokees don't have the raised channel on top of the floor pan. If you want them, you'll have to make them.

They're all soft. The gears are nylon -- it's important to set the clocking correctly when you install the gear.

Did you use a long gear or a short gear?

Swapped the flashers and now both the turn signals and hazards work. Cleaned off the contacts a little but they weren't that dirty. Don't really understand it but definitely not complaining for now. Thanks for the help! Okay, now check all your turn signal/hazard lights and see which one is burned out. The stock turn flasher (unless you have a tow package) is a load-sensitive flasher. It's designed to flash correctly when all the lights work, and to not flash properly if a bulb burns out. The 4-way hazard flasher is not load sensitive -- it flashes no matter how many bulbs are burned out.

a little larger pipe won`t hurt, maybe porting the exhaust a bit, if there`s anythign left to be ported that is, while the header is down, why not... Don't be so sure. Remember, the OP said he's looking for torque, not high-end power. I've never done propane, so I don't know if it might be different from gasoline. I do know that when I had my original '88 Cherokee for a few years, it needed an exhaust. At the time my brother was manager of a Speedy muffler shop, and he talked me into doing a full 2-1/2" system with a turbo muffler. (Stock is 2-1/2" as far as the catalytic converter, 2-1/4" from the cat through the muffler and out the tailpipe.) It sounded nice -- but performance suffered, and gas mileage was between 2 and 4 MPG worse. That was the only time in my life when I actually looked forward to an exhaust system dying so I could justify replacing it with stock parts again.

If you read the link you provided, it says you need a temporary registration. Connecticut is the same way. People may drive without tags all the time, but I've never heard of any state in which it's legal. I've driven used cars home from several states, and I always had temporary tags to do it.

Correct. You can only use a dolly to tow a vehicle that's registered. For an unregistered vehicle, you have to use a trailer that carries all four tires off the ground.

I believe Jeep started using Chrysler paint codes in model year 1988.

I was going to say that the 232 (3.8L) doesn't have a long enough stroke to help a 4.0L, but I think I could be mistaken. The 4.0 has a stroke of 3.41 inches. The stroke for the 3.8L engine is 3.5 inches, and the stroke for the 4.2L is 3.895 inches. When you do the math, the 3.8L crank does increase the displacement a tiny bit -- but not enough to matter. Mathematically, the 4.0L is 3.96 liters. With a 3.8L crank that increases to 4.07L. Not much of an increase, but the increased stroke would possibly help increase the torque by a little bit. Since you're in Mexico, how about a crank from one of the big VAM engines?

232 crank? The AMC 232 is a 3.8L engine. Did you mean 258 (4.2L)?

There are ways it could be done -- but very labor-intensive. Several years ago, a friend needed a driver's floor pan for his Comanche. I had an '89 XJ junker. He bought a body shop tool for drilling out spot rivets and went along the entire length of both sides of the frame rail, drilling out the spot welds that attach the floor to the "frame." Then he cut out the section he needed and welded it back into his MJ. The same thing could be done sort of in reverse -- drill out all the spot welds, remove the floor pans, and then cut out the XJ "frame" rails and weld them back in under the MJ floor.

I wouldn't drive that at all, anywhere. With a unibody, the "frame" rails and the floor pan combine to make the structure. Each "frame" rail acts like a beam. The thing with beams is that it's the top and bottom that do the work -- the vertical parts are only there to keep the top and bottom flanges separated. The top flange (the floor pan, in a unibody) sees compression forces, the bottom flange sees tension forces, and the middle of the verticals is what the engineers call the "neutral axis" -- no force at all. Once any portion of the bottom surface gets weakened or broken, there's no continuous path for the tensile forces. Those photos are so bad that there's no question of "if" your truck is going to break -- the only question is when. One half-decent pothole with a 5-pound bag of groceries on the passenger seat could be all it takes.

No, those are the towing mirrors. The "flag" mirrors are the ones like in the link I posted above.

The Eliminator didn't have "flag" mirrors. Your mirrors should look like the one in Jtrux's photos (above). The "flag" mirror refers to the el cheapo mirror that screws to the outside of the driver's door, through the door skin. Like this one: https://images.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=http%3A%2F%2Fhellcreeksuspensions.com%2Fimages%2FRides%2FJeep%2F3in%2520Comanche%2520(10).jpg&f=1

These might work, with some alterations: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/XJRAIL.htmlhttp://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/XJRAIL.html Found this on the Jeepin.com forum: I'm interested in that tube ==> channel idea, because that's exactly what I was thinking of but I didn't know that any standard steel shape would fit.

Better would be if you could find a U-shaped member that would replace the bottom and both sides of the frame rail in one piece, but I don't know of any source for such for the Comanche or Cherokee, So steel angle might be the only option. But ... 3/16"? I think 3/32" would be plenty, and 1/8" would be overkill.

RV cams aren't "custom" -- there are several companies who offer them off-the-shelf. Swapping a camshaft should be a lot less work and a lot less expense than doing things like decking the head. http://www.cranecams.com/product/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=23907