Eagle

I agree that there's no magic or mystery to the double flare. But ... the key is a GOOD double flare tool. The cheap ones just don't work, and not everyone is willing to shell out $60 or $100 for a tool they hope to use only once. I don't know if the parts stores lend out double flare tools, but that might be worth looking into. Whatever you do, DON'T buy a cheap flaring tool and think "It'll be good enough for one little job." It won't. Handle the size adapter carefully. There's a 3/16 flare adapter still hiding in the engine bay of my '88 Cherokee, somewhere -- I did that brake job at least ten years ago. It took awhile, but I was finally able to source a replacement for just the adapter, without having to buy the entire tool and set, so I'm back in business.

Full-time transfer case "option"? I wasn't aware the Grand Cherokee came any way other than full-time. The early ones had some funky transfer case that the off-roaders hate -- 247, maybe? -- that didn't do something. Was it no low range? The later ones (in the ZJ series) I thought all had the 242.

If you can find a stock length that's just a little too long, you can get by with that -- but it doesn't look good. And you want to be sure there isn't so much excess that it hangs down and can get caught on something. Just be sure you don't get a piece that's too short -- 6 inches too long will work, but a half inch too short won't work. Don't try to make tight bends freehand -- more than likely the line will kink, after which you can throw it away. Use something as a mandrel to make the bends. x I found this on Amazon. I've had two of them (a large and a small) in my toolbox for decades.

Brake hard lines are generally not available as pre-fit, even for current production. The size is 3/16-inch. Length -- take a tape measure out there and measure it. You'll have to buy one that's a few inches too long, cut off one end to the correct length, and double flare it.

I used to run 85-140 in the tranny of my racing Javelin. Back then I couldn't find it in auto parts stores, I had to buy it from the local White truck dealer. They used it in the big trucks. That wasn't caused by the weight of the gear oil.

3/16 inch.

With the 242, the front should not have the CAD, so that much is correct. The D44 was not part of the 242 option, it was part of the trailer towing package, so the rear axle could be either a D35 or a D44 -- more likely a D35.

You are referring to the power/comfort switch. When set in "comfort" mode the shift points were at a lower RPM and not as crisp. In "power" mode the shift points were raised to a higher RPM and shifts were a bit firmer. Most of us just set the switch in "power" mode and forget it. The HO change you are referring to was simply the elimination of the switch, and hard-wiring it to the "power" setting. If you have the switch (and it works), you don't need to "upgrade" anything, or change your TCU. Just flip the switch.

I know my '68 Javelins and AMXs had points and condenser, but those were the 290-343-390 engines. I think the 304-360-401 series got electronic distributors before '81. I had a '78 full-size Cherokee with the 360, and I **think** it had a Prestolite or Autolite solid state distributor.

I'm confused. Did you blow the rubber flex hose from the rear chassis to the axle, or did you blow one of the hard lines from the block on the axle to the rear wheels?

That depends on whether the problem is in the transfer case, or in the differential or left front brakes. My first thought would be to pull the front wheel and inspect the caliper.

Payload for a standard (not MT) MJ is a bit over 1,400 pounds, so 500 pounds is about one-third of the payload, not one-half.

According to Joe at General Spring the military wrap spring is based on and rated the same as the MT spring. His words, not mine. "Based on and rated the same as" is not quite equal to "The military wrap springs are the MT springs." The factory MT springs were not military wrap, and direct replacements for the MT springs are not military wrap. The military wrap is an additional option on custom-made springs.

Be sure the cable doesn't have any sharp bends in it.

My guess is the headlight switch itself. Try jiggling the knob gently and see if that results in flickering of the lights.

Since he can fab, they are a possibility. But ... they're wider than the TJ/XJ/MJ axles. And that brought problems, because when Jeep made them wider they didn't make the fronts stronger. When people started putting big tires on them and actually using them like Jeeps, those wider axles bent. There's an aftermarket for kits to reinforce those axles. The ones I've seen consist of tubes that fit inside the OEM tubes to beef up the wall thickness (or lack thereof), and gussets to reinforce the Cs where they mate to the axles. Overall, for an MJ you're probably better off with the front axle from a TJ Rubicon.

This is the best way to go, IMHO. Also, are you looking for a flat, 4-wire connector, or a round, 7-wire connector?

I thought carparts was a listing service for junkyards. They sell new parts, too? What are the length and width measurements on your tank?

Cherokees don't have the raised channel on top of the floor pan. If you want them, you'll have to make them.

They're all soft. The gears are nylon -- it's important to set the clocking correctly when you install the gear.

Did you use a long gear or a short gear?

Swapped the flashers and now both the turn signals and hazards work. Cleaned off the contacts a little but they weren't that dirty. Don't really understand it but definitely not complaining for now. Thanks for the help! Okay, now check all your turn signal/hazard lights and see which one is burned out. The stock turn flasher (unless you have a tow package) is a load-sensitive flasher. It's designed to flash correctly when all the lights work, and to not flash properly if a bulb burns out. The 4-way hazard flasher is not load sensitive -- it flashes no matter how many bulbs are burned out.

a little larger pipe won`t hurt, maybe porting the exhaust a bit, if there`s anythign left to be ported that is, while the header is down, why not... Don't be so sure. Remember, the OP said he's looking for torque, not high-end power. I've never done propane, so I don't know if it might be different from gasoline. I do know that when I had my original '88 Cherokee for a few years, it needed an exhaust. At the time my brother was manager of a Speedy muffler shop, and he talked me into doing a full 2-1/2" system with a turbo muffler. (Stock is 2-1/2" as far as the catalytic converter, 2-1/4" from the cat through the muffler and out the tailpipe.) It sounded nice -- but performance suffered, and gas mileage was between 2 and 4 MPG worse. That was the only time in my life when I actually looked forward to an exhaust system dying so I could justify replacing it with stock parts again.

If you read the link you provided, it says you need a temporary registration. Connecticut is the same way. People may drive without tags all the time, but I've never heard of any state in which it's legal. I've driven used cars home from several states, and I always had temporary tags to do it.

Correct. You can only use a dolly to tow a vehicle that's registered. For an unregistered vehicle, you have to use a trailer that carries all four tires off the ground.