Eagle

The lift is a hack job. He was too cheap to buy longer front brake hoses, so he unbolted the end of the hard lines from the fender and bent them down. That's a disaster waiting to happen IMHO. (Photo #2)

It says "removed from a brand new rear end." What factory Dana 44 -- from any vehicle manufacturer -- ever came with a true torque-sensing differential? The claim that it's "completely setup" and that the pattern is verified is BS. The pattern will change when installed into a different housing -- the lateral shims will have to be set, and the pinion depth will have to be set. It will NOT be a drop-in. (Unless you're exceptionally lucky.) I wouldn't buy it. Just buy a TrueTrac. By the way, the Dana 44 is an inch longer than the Dana 35, so if you switch from a 35 to a 44 you can't use the same driveshaft. It has to be shortened.

A small exhaust leak (cracked header, or loose header bolt) also results in running rich. It fools the O2 sensor.

How can there be a double-DIN bezel for the MJ? The only way to physically fit a double-DIN head in the single-DIN space is to remove the entire heater control unit. Then how do you control your heat (and a/c, if you have it)?

+1 on checking O2 sensor and MAP sensor. Also, a partially clogged catalytic converter can cause all sorts of issues.

Good decision, IMHO

I need a 242 transfer case for my late wife's 2000 Cherokee. Most of the used 242 transfer cases I see on Car-Part.com are from Grand Cherokees. Not sure on interchange. What year did the Grand change to the closed/sealed tailshaft design?

^^^^ My first thought was flex plate ...

They already are dual filament bulbs. That's how they combine tailights and brake lights.

It might, but my guess is that it wouldn't. The metal of the flex plate is so thin that there's a reinforcing ring for the bolt circle. When they crack, they always crack around the perimeter of the reinforcing ring. I think if the crack is welded up by a good welder, it would probably be as good as new, or maybe better.

Probably true, but the problem is how to know if the used one is actually good. Out of curiosity ... has anyone ever tried TIG welding a cracked flexplate (successfully)?

https://www.autozone.com/powertrain/engine?filterByKeyWord=engine&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false

New, used, or rebuilt?

Mud tires on the highway make an Army deuce and a half sound like a limousine.

That listing doesn't make sense. All the 87s were fuel injected. For '86 the 2.8L had a mechanical fuel pump on the block feeding the carburetor, but the 2.5L had throttle body injection. The part shown in the listing looks like it might work, but the listing is incorrect.

Limited slip was an option in all Jeep rear axles. Anything you find in a junkyard may or may not have a limited slip. And Jeep's limited slip is a clutch type, so even if a junkyard axle has it, it may or may not be worn out.

You are aware that you can shift on the fly between 2WD and 4WD high, right? I've driven hundreds of miles on roads just as you describe. Just shift into 4WD for the snowy or icy parts, and shift back to 2WD for the dry parts. That's what that handle next to the gear shift is for.

https://www.wikihow.com/Get-a-Title-to-an-Abandoned-Vehicle https://www.dmv.org/la-louisiana/automotive-law/vehicle-code.php (Scroll down to Parking and Abandonment) If you got it from the legal owner, it's easier -- go to the DMV site and look up Replacement Title

Much depends on what you plan to use the MJ for, and how you drive. The early 27-spline 8.25 axle shafts aren't enough better than the Dana 35 to be worth arguing, BUT ... the Dana 35 has smaller and thinner axle tubes, and Dana 35s fail more frequently due to the tubes bending than they do from simple shaft failure. That said, I still have Dana 35s under both my '88 XJ and the '88 MJ that I wheeled with NAXJA-NAC. The XJ I ran on 30s, and I ran 31s under the MJ when I wheeled it. Both vehicles have been all over Paragon (when it was open). But I'm a wimpy wheeler -- I don't drive with a lead foot. The later 8.25s are significantly better than the early ones, but IMHO even the 27-spline 8.25 is a step up from the Dana 35.

Heck, you don't need a lift to clear 31s on an XJ, and the XJ has smaller rear wheel wells than the MJ. This was extremely well researched and documented years ago by one of the guys in NAXJA (whose name I regret to admit I have forgotten). My '88 XJ is sitting on 31s with no lift right now.

You can't get a title? There's a procedure for doing that in Connecticut. I've gone through it twice.

I replaced a cracked Renix flexplate back in 2003. I got the replacement from my Jeep dealer and it worked, but I don't know if it was a factory Jeep part or if they got it from Crown.

Read my signature for my feelings on this issue ...

Not if all you want are the axles and transfer case. Beyond that, everything is different. Related, but different.

I'm 6'-1" tall. The default, straight position is what works best for me, and even with a tilt column I've never used the feature to swing the wheel out of the way when exiting or entering the vehicle. Considering how the titl columns like to loosen up over time, I'm happier without it.