Eagle

Correct. On the MJ, the hazards share the same bulbs as the brake lights, whereas on the XJ the turns and hazards have separate bulbs, behind the amber lenses. The MJ is set up so the brake lights have priority over the hazards. I have always considered that to be a mistake, but it is they way they are intended to operate.

I had a clunk like that in my '87 MJ. It was the left lower control arm.

When the heat seems to drop off -- hold your hand over the top of the dashboard and see if heat is coming out of the defroster vents. If so, you have a vacuum leak. The heater controls are operated by vacuum, and the default position when vacuum fails is defrost.

Used only. They are attached with double-stick trim tape, which you can buy at any of the parts chains. Use a thin knife blade to slide under them and peel them off.

It's not just your time and effort. There are costs involved. If your state requires a demand letter (mine does, I had forgotten about that), you should send it registered mail with return receipt requested. Or maybe certified, return receipt. Either one will cost you a few $$. Then there's the filing fee in small claims court. A few more $$. Do you work a regular job? Small claims court hearings are conducted during the court's normal working hours, so if you have a job you'll have to take a day (or at least half a day) off from work to attend. The notice of the suit has to be served in the manner prescribed by the law of your state. That might be registered mail, but it's more likely an agent of the court. Sheriff or marshal, depending on what your state calls for. There's a fee for that service. Then you may win a judgment. But if the defendant blew off your informal requests for payment, then blew off the demand letter, then didn't pay up upon notice of the lawsuit, he/she will more than likely ignore the judgment. Then you have to pay a sheriff/marshal to take the next step, which is to serve a copy of the judgment and either take payment on the spot or impound personal property. That's going to cost you. You're out $500. If it costs you $250 plus however many hours of your time to MAYBE net another $250 out of the process, you have to ask yourself if it's really worth doing.

Get the answers to Tim's questions before you do anything else. The entire question of whether or not you can collect from the new owner depends on the answers to those questions. Real life example: I'm an architect. In particular, I'm an expert in building codes and construction contracts and claims, and for many years I was a construction arbitrator for the American Arbitration Association. A couple of years ago a client for whom I had done work fifteen years ago called me up and asked me to serve as an expert witness in a lawsuit he was filing against an out-of-state architect. I agreed to meet with him to look at the documents and hear the story. He's a mechanical contractor. He took a job as the mechanical subcontractor for a design-build contractor who had a project to renovate a building at one of our state's National Guard facilities. There were major deficiencies in the construction documents, and it cost my client well over a million dollars in extra work to get things finished to the military specifications. My client was suing the architect to collect the extra costs. I agreed that the documents sucked, and inside of fifteen minutes I identified some major points that supported my client's position. BUT ... I pointed out to him that he didn't have a contract with the architect, he only had a contract with the developer. I told him he needed to be suing the developer, who could then "implead" the architect in a chain of privity of contract. My client said he had already signed a waiver with the developer, and that his (my client's) lawyer said they could sue the architect. So we went through the whole dog and pony show. I spent hours going through the contract documents, and I wrote a lengthy report. A mechanical engineer (a good one, whom I knew) did the same thing. Both the engineer and I sat through full day depositions. Then it went to trial. The judge dismissed the case because my client didn't have a contract with the architect. Exactly what I told him from the outset. So ... you need to know if the new owner bought the outstanding liabilities of the old business. If not -- you should be going after the previous owner rather than the new owner. And the unfortunate reality is that, regardless of which owner you go after, your chances of collecting are small.

The TCU shifts by switching solenoids. Back in the days of the old XJ Forum (the predecessor of NAXJA) there was a guy on the board named, IIRC, Frank Sweigert (or close). He had an AMC Hornet into which he had swapped an XJ 4.0L drive train. No TCU -- he controlled it using a 6-position rotary switch that stepped through the solenoid connections in sequence. You could use a rotary switch alone and use the last position to engage the torque converter lock, or you could use the rotary switch to select the gear and use a separate toggle switch to engage the torque converter lock in any gear.

In addition to what Tim wrote, consider the cost of collection. The debt is $500. It'll probably cost you $250 to $350 to get a lawyer to write a letter, which the owner of the business will ignore anyway. For a lawyer to take it to court, figure on giving him/her a retainer of at least $5,000. IMHO, the best way to go would be small claims court. The rules vary depending on the state, but you should be able to find the rules and the forms for your state on-line. You don't need (and probably can't have) a lawyer for a small claims action. You'll pay a nominal filing fee (last time I did it the fee was $25, but that was 20 years ago). But whether or not you can even pursue the claim depends on the answer's to Tim's questions. The new owner may or may not have assumed the previous owner's outstanding liabilities. One last thing about small claims court. I've had to take two clients to small claims court over the years. One paid up. One ignored the judgment. The next step is to turn it over to a sheriff (in my state -- possibly some other entity or agency in your state). In my case, the sheriff screwed me. He was supposed to go into the deadbeats office and seize their office equipment. Instead, he negotiated (without any authorization, permission, or legal basis) a repayment schedule. Which the deadbeat signed and then ignored, but the sheriff still wanted his fee ... from me. When I complained to the state agency that supposedly oversees the sheriffs' activities in these matters, they blew me off. What I'm hinting at is that small claims court is probably your best recourse, but don't go into it thinking it's a slam dunk. And get the answers to Tim's questions before doing anything.

I know that's not the image they're aiming for. And that's exactly why this thing is a Scrambler, not a pickup truck -- and certainly not a Gladiator pickup. I live in New England, I have (okay, "had") blond hair and fair skin, so for nine or so months out of the year it's not feasible to run with no top, and on days when the weather permits -- I can't do it because I don't want to deal with sunburn. I want a truck with a fixed roof. Removable roofs are leaks that you paid extra for. To me this is just further proof that Jeep has lost sight of what "Jeep" is all about.

Longer bed, and a modicum of enclosed storage space behind the seats. And a real roof ...

A friend across town just went through this with his 2.5L Wrangler. Number 3 piston self-destructed.

Well done. I wouldn't have thought to try that.

Dutch uncle here ... Looking at your other posts/threads about this truck, such as the fact that the rear brake proportioning system is disconnected and non-functional, I'm going to make an unthinkable suggestion: STOP looking at upgrades and such until you have gone through the truck and fixed everything that needs fixing. Make it solid and reliable, drive it for awhile, and THEN you can take your time deciding what you really want to upgrade.

Remember, it could be a 2.5L. Not to suggest that's a bad thing. That's perfectly adequate for a trail rig.

My daughter has a problem with her MacBook Pro and I need help with remote diagnosis and repair. She's at a university in South America, so even if I knew anything about MacBooks, it's not like I can work on it myself. Here's her description of the problem: Any ideas?

Most of those "goodies" are things that I don't need or want -- and that will be standard equipment, so I would have to pay for things I would hate. I don't want or need a removable soft top. I don't want or need a 8- (or any-) speed automatic transmission. I don't want or need electronic, seven thousand mode off-road drive options. Give me a 5- or 6-speed manual transmission, a 242 transfer case with a manual shift lever, a decent radio with a CD/DVD player, and the diesel engine. Removable roof panels are potential leaks. I want a real roof over my head. Not interested. The more I see of it, the less I like it.

Please explain your method of bleeding.

The Dana 35 uses smaller diameter axle tubes than the Dana 44. If those U-bolts from Rusty's claim to fit both -- they must be sized for the Dana 44, which means they aren't right for the Dana 35. Which axle do you have?

Congrats!

Is he using book of faces to promote "his" decals? I would file a formal complaint with Facebook. Explain who you are, give them a link to the forum, and include his FB message for confirmation. Get the SOB suspended or banned.

The least they could have done was to square off the lower, trailing corners of the doors. It looks stupid, and it's over-priced. Which means they'll sell a gazillion of them ... to people who don't know jack about what a Jeep or a truck is really about.

In general, the 2.5L should return about 5 MPG better mileage than the 4.0L. There was a guy on NAXJA with a 2.5L in one of the Rocky Mountain states who claimed he routinely got 28 MPG. The 4.0L is lucky to get more than 20 MPG going downhill with a tailwind.

Doesn't sound familiar. Sorry.

https://www.copyright.gov/title17/ https://www.copyright.gov/title17/92chap1.html https://www.bitlaw.com/copyright/index.html