Motion Offroad

Take the bumper bracket / tow hook mounts off and their is a access hole behind it. A wrench will fit into the hole and hold the nut, loosen/tighten the bolt itself.

60913 is an XJ AAL part number. Specs on that # for the XJ is only 1.5" of lift; so I doubt you'll get anything on the MJ. As Eagle said they are just re-using the XJ lift components on the MJ. Looks like the link you provided is the 2010 catalog, like I said the 2012 doesn't even have the MJ listed anymore....

Rancho does not make a MJ kit. Pulled our 2012 Rancho Master Catalog and the MJ isn't even listed....

Length of coil means nothing... You have to factory in the spring rate. Spring rates are done by several things including length, wire diameter, coils per inch (how tightly it's wound), etc. For instance lets take a 4.5" coil. A coil with a higher spring rate will be theoretically be shorter than a coil with a softer spring rate. The softer spring rate coil may be 3" overall length longer at static height out of the Jeep than the higher spring rate coil; however end result for both is 4.5" of lift. OR Same coil length, but one is wound tighter than the other, uses a thicker material and one may only be 4.5" of lift but the other one (that's the same length) may give you 6.5" of lift. Length of coil means nothing...

Switch the bulbs side to side and see if it does the same thing with the other bulb in that housing/harness. If not than you have a bad bulb, if so you have bad wiring/connection. Also be sure to never touch the bulb itself with your bare fingers. The oil in your fingers can ruin the bulb.

Not sure how high your wanting to go with it, but when I ran the wires for my CB in the wheeling MJ I ran them under the headliner and than down the a-pillar behind the trim. Didn't really remove anything, just simply pulled them enough away to shove the wires behind it.

All the XJ/MJ D44 axle's I've came across had the pressed-in barb.

Drain plugs are standard on all G2 covers now. At least the last shipment of over 150 G2 covers we received from them all have them...

D44 XJ/MJ shafts are 30 spline. D35 XJ/MJ shafts are only 27 spline. Not to mention the D44 is 1.31" diameter and the D35 is only 1.18" diameter. The spider gears are different so I'm not sure how you got a D35 shaft to fit into a D44 case correctly. I'd assume that the D35 shaft isn't fully engaged... You also have to remember that 1990-on the D35 was a c-clip axle, and the D44 in the XJ/MJ was NEVER a c-clip (prior to 1990 the D35 was non c-clip).

The kits mentioned are both a "Y-Link" type setup. I think first you need to decide if you want to go with a Y-Link or a true 3 or 4 link setup. Each style has it's benefits/disadvantages. Once you decide what style of kit you want to go with you need to decide what kit specifically suits your needs. Just because a kit is cheaper does not mean it's the one to go with. You need to look at the joints and how long they last; mounting setup, ground clearance, etc....

They were made by a company called Zone Works which is no longer in business. You probably got one of the last sets we had on the shelf.

Here is Bob's MJ with RE 5.5" and 33x12.5 tires.

Can't speak for the others but can speak for us. You are correct all our XJ & MJ leafs are made for us to our specs by Alcan.

And for the same reason I find it difficult to understand why people get so upset when you ask for the reasoning behind something. You stated you didn't want to do something, but gave no details as to why until asked. Then you criticism them for asking why. Maybe the question was asked for a reason so we can give you a better response as to what will work best in your wants/needs/desires. Maybe some of us have been there and are simply trying to offer advice (isn't that what you asked for?) before you spend money on something that you may/may not be happy with. I simply was just asking why you wanted to keep with a sealed beam headlight. Regardless of if I think a H4 type conversion is better or not I was just curious as to the reasoning you had behind not wanting to convert. I see no need to ask a question on a public forum to begin with if your not willing to get different responses. -Adam

I know you said you didn't want to deal with the H4 conversion, but can I ask why? They are simply "plug-n-play" and would be no more work than swapping out the sealed beam light. Keep the wattage down on the bulbs and you'll not have any worries with the factory harness. I think you'll get much better results with them over any sealed beam setup. Just curious as to why your against them?

33x12.5 work fine with a 4.5" coil. Heck they work fine with a 3.5" coil.... (shown RE 3.5" coil w/ 33x12.5 Maxxis Bighorns and flare in original location)

Shocks should never be used as bumpstops. If your shock bottoms out prior to hitting a bumpstop you'll need A) Longer bumpstops, or B) different shocks. Depending on what you have on currently, bumpstops would be the cheapest and most likely prevent any tire contact with the body.

"Self-Help" section of your local auto-supply store typically has them. Often sold in a package with multiples, and are typically green in color.

Just a FYI on a few things (which may clear things up for you). 5100's are vehicle specific. Bilstein uses these part numbers for a specific application for a specific vehicle based on specs (length col/ext and valving). The 5100's carry a lifetime warranty. 5125 are a 5100 sold as a "universal" application based on length and valving. Identical shock as the 5100's, just sold differently. The 5125's only have a 2 year warranty because they are not vehicle specific based. The same is of the 5160's and 5165's. 5160's are vehicle specific, the 5165's are a universal. Both are identical shocks, just different part numbers. If you need help choosing what exact shock you need feel free to give us a call or shot us an email and we can pull out our Bilstein book and get you part numbers based on the specs you want.

Auto for wheeling, unless the manual has a hand throttle (makes a world of difference).

Just going to weld the splines to the yoke on SYE simple fix :yes: Huh? You need to add a "slip" somewhere in the system for it to function properly. Your eliminating the "slip" at the yoke in the TC, so thus you need to add it to the driveshaft itself now... -Adam

To each their own... We wheeled our MJ on 35" tires (6.5" lift) with a stock D35 rear axle for aprox 3 years without a single issue ever. Why? We wanted to see how long it would last with the mentality we'll replace it with something after we break it. After 3 years it never broke; we did however upgrade to a AMC20 simply because we had it. The D35 out of the MJ is still sitting in the shop as a spare. Several here have wheeled with me and have seen that I'm not "easy" on my Jeeps offroad either.... I am in no way saying the D35 should be looked at as a strong axle; nor am I saying I'd ever recommend to one of our customers to run the D35 with 35 (or even 33" tires). However I am saying that we've run 35" tires on the D35 axle without issues. Heck I'm still running the D35 w/35's on my summer daily driver YJ after 4 years without a single issue. I've ran 35's on the D35 of at least 4 of my own Jeeps and never broke anything.... -Adam

Marcel, Hate to burst your bubble but we are up to 11 employee's now. We never claimed to be as big as Quadratec (or the like), but we are growing and have recently even moved to a newer larger facility. To the original poster, PM me your order number and I'll look into it. With the amount of black friday sales; and depending on the item we may of sold out of the item you purchased and are simply waiting on new supply to come in. This is simply part of having a big black friday sale; as we can not estimate the amount of sales on a specific item; though we try to have extra on-hand inventory prior to the sale. -Adam

No they are not. They are zinc coated; BILSTEIN Triple-C Technology® BILSTEIN’s triple coating process on 5100, 5125, 5160 and 5165 Series shocks provides a long lasting, great looking high luster finish. Coating 1: The special zinc alloy ensures excellent adhesion to the base material and is the base for sustained corrosion protection. Coating 2: The middle coating transforms the zinc layer into a sealed homogenous smooth surface. Coating 3: The top coat is the final step providing the high luster finish as well as additional, long-term protection against mechanical wear and corrosion. Over 600 hours DIN 50021 SS salt spray test.

Bilstein 5100's.