Motion Offroad

Not necessarily "rake", as the wheel wells are not the same from front to back.

We're in the same boat and looking as well... We've also narrowed it down to the same rig. We've also considered a 4 door truck (dully) for the simple fact we could fit a camper in the back. In the same boat as you, need to sell another vehicle first before we purchase. We've been on the hunt for the right one though...

TNT (Treks) truss system is the easiest, and most effective way to do it. PM us if you want a price on it...

Here you go. http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... cts_id=512

Take all but 1 bolt out. Back it out a little bit and put a socket on it. Than simply turn your steering wheel and it will pop the hub off. You'll use the knuckle to push on the bolt, thus pushing the hub out a bit. Once you get it out a bit you can pry on it with a screwdriver.

Explain to us why your running a 2nd overflow bottle in the closed-loop system?

The purpose of the engine thermostat is not to keep the engine cool. Its purpose is to maintain a specified minimum temperature. Once that specified temperature is exceeded, the temperature is no longer controlled by the thermostat. A t'stat is intended to keep the engine warm, and NOT to help it cool. Normal running temps for a 4.0L are higher than either a 180 or 195 t'stat. Thus, regardless of which one you have installed, when it's working correctly, and the engine is warmed up, the 'stat is WELL PAST it's full-open temp. Putting in a lower t'stat only means the t'stat opens SOONER during the warm up cycle, thus slowing down the warm up. It does nothing to lower the temp once the engine is fully warmed up, as it's all the way open, be it a 180 or a 195. So for those who think that putting in a different deg. t'stat will help lower your temp; your wrong.

They changed the spline counts on the TC's when they did away with the Renix (1990 (ish)). If you have a pre 1990 Jeep you'll need to find a TC out of a pre 1990 Jeep as well. The early models have 21 spline, the later models had 23 spline. The TC (242/231) is interchangeable among trannies. So no, they are not tranny specific.

In the closed loop system the best way to fill it is to pull the upper rad. hose and fill it via that. Than put the hose back on and check the level in your rad. Fill rad. if needed than.

We have a 4 banger '88 MJ and a 4 banger '89 XJ sitting here and both have that coolant bottle... I know you based that statement on the photo above, but just stating that they were used in several years/models.

The 2.5L XJ/MJ had the overflow bottle in that location. It's a factory bottle.

If he has the radius arm D44 I'm not sure that the truss will work with it - at least not without a lot of modification. I think it only works with the Wagoneer or leaf spring Ford D44s. Willy They offer 3 truss systems for a front D44. Ford Radius Arm - TT-1104 Ford Leaf Spring - TT-1103 Waggy 44 (1980+) - TT-1183

Call up Bob @ TNT (Treks) and order up the D44 truss for the XJ. You'll weld the truss onto the axle and than be able to bolt it in.

Put a rag by the ring gear and turn it so it goes against the pinion gear with the rag pinched between the two. It will push it right out. :cheers:

If you go with a winch bumper just make sure it has a set of frame tie-ins and uses more than just the 3 original mounting points per side. Not all bumpers out there that are made to hold winches have the extra rear mounting point that is needed. One of our favorite "cheap" one's is the C4x4 Front Tapered one. Well built, has the rear tie-ins and looks decent on the front of the MJ's as well. http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... cts_id=229 We've also had good luck with the XRC8 Winches if your looking for a cheap winch as well. 2 year warranty to boot! http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... ucts_id=84 Biggest issue is getting these items to :Canadaflag: but rest assured we've sent many C4x4 bumpers to Canada without issues via UPS. Let us know if we can be of any further help.

http://www.earthroamer.com/tab_xpeditio ... icing.html I'd like the price list of what $77,000 in mods gets ya. :eek:

For $400 if it's new I'd buy it. Fabtech has quality stuff. Their shorter kits lack for needed parts, but the 2.5" TJ kit is a well put together kit. Just make sure if it is used that the shocks are not shot; as Fabtech's cheap shocks don't seem to last very long.

We made their own product page for future reference in searching so their are no questions any longer about them. We also added a few installed pics to that page as well. Also, BW does have specific MJ install directions with surprisingly good measurements for both the SWB and LWB models as to where exactly everything needs placed/cut. If you happen to not get the MJ specific directions with your flares just let us know, as we do have it in .pdf that we are happy to email. http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... cts_id=564

PM Sent. :cheers:

Yes 2 door XJ Bushwackers and MJ Bushwackers are the exact same thing (same part number even). We've fitted them on the MJ without any issues... Here's a stock photo with them installed.

Have always enjoyed Navy Pier. Don't know if they are still doing it, but you used to be able to get on the trolley for free so you don't have to walk. They have set stops, but if you get a map you can jump from trolley to trolley and get 95% of the places you want to go without having to walk much.

You can go an inch by using THIS SPACER under your coils. Just keep the factory isolator in there as well. Just going upto 5" from what you've got shouldn't throw things off to bad if the measurements are correct already.

In response to mjdoa... With SOA you 90% of the time need a 6.5" front coil for it to look correct. Now this will vary greatly on if your MJ is a 2WD or 4WD as they used different rear leaf packs. It will also vary based on the condition of your factory leafs. But like I said, 90% of the time you need a 6.5" front lift to level the front with the rear in a SOA situation. Since you have 4.5" front coils, you can either a) buy a set of 6.5" coils or B) (the cheaper option) buy a set of 1.75" coil spacers. You did not mention what set of LCA's you had. I would highly NOT recommend running 6.5" of lift (however you want to get it) with a set of factory LCA's. At 6.5" of lift your LCA length should be 17.25". The factory's are only 15.75". So factory LCA's are 1.5" to short; which is a HUGE amount when it comes to LCA length. And since we're on the topic of control arms, figure I might as well mention the same on UCA's as well. With 6.5" of lift your UCA's should be 15.5". Factory length's are 15". So the factory one's are .5" to short. Not as bad as the lower's but still worth mentioning to set correct pinion angle. Also don't forget about the trackbar. A factory track bar at 6.5" of lift is a big "no-no". Heck even at 3" of lift you should be running an aftermarket adjustable trackbar. Just make sure your adjustable trackbar will still work with the jump from 4.5" to 6.5". If your not running an adjustable you need to be; they are a lot cheaper than a new set of tires are! Let us know if we can be of any further help. :cheers:

Your order went out today; we emailed you tracking info. Thanks again! :cheers:

Here are a few of the popular one's we sell that we've gotten very good feedback on. Just make sure if your going with a winch bumper that it ties into the rear frame rails and uses MORE than just the 3 factory holes on each side. MORE XJ/MJ Rock Proof Front Winch Bumper C4x4 XJ/MJ Tapered Front Winch Bumper (available with our without brush guard) C4x4 XJ/MJ Trailblazer Front Winch Bumper (available with or without prerunner bar)