pingpong

When I had this swap done back in the spring, I used a Pilot bearing from the 4wd hardware kit. It was a roller bearing at that. IF you are doing the exteranal slave swap, I either recommend using Your stock MC and a Advance Adapters line kit and an external slave for the yr trans you have, or buy the kit that comes with the master and slave, and line. Keep in mind the 96 master throw rod will have to be drilled out.

Well I have been trying to sel my 90 MJ swb with a smoking motor for a while, and just had no buyers, willing to pay what I think it was worth. Well Today a couple of friends came over to make it happen. Since I have a gravel driveway I went and purchased some 3/4 CDX and it worked great. Here is the donor motor on work area What 3 sheets of cdx looks like with an engine lift on it Jeep and engine and lift on plywwod We ended up pulling the whole drivetrain complete. This made us take a few extra steps, but over all it went off with out a hitch. First Jeff Unbolted the header and radiator , while I went underneath and unbolted the driveshafts. Just about the time we got finished with the radaitor and stuff.. it started to mist and rain.. so out came the EZ up and work continued Derreck being the counter weight while I slowly push the jeep back. Jeff is raising the motor up as it frees itself. Here the t-case is clearing the front bumper. There were not many pics taken from this point. Bascially we divided and conquered the rest of the swap. We did find out that the 87 and 90 mj harnesses were different when it came to the alt sub harness. Besides that ... after a lil trouble shooting the engine started right up. Not bad for a lil over 6 hrs work. AS always jeff was real meticulous and thorough. I don't think The swap would have been done in such a short period of time with out him. Thanks man.

Wow I wheel my D30 and it is a kinda proven formula, and no where near 1600. BUy a set of ALLOY USA shafts, and upgrade to the 760 u-joints. Through a lock right/aussie up front, add some 1/4 LCA skids, truss the lond side if you want, then wheel. As for the unit bearing issue.. buy the one with the lifetime warranty and keep exchanging them. D30 can live for a long time with proper maintence. Also for the price you are talking.. you might not be that far off fron a used d44 Rubicon front axle.

I would use a 7" grinder with a cut off wheel, or a plasma cutter. The sawzall will distort the metal. If I do mine I will use the Cut off wheel.

Thanks for the links

I used some generic store lines, and an aftermarket SS line. I believe they are all pretty much the same.

I remeber that article on that net. Basically it used a filler neck from jegs or summit. Personally I would just do the open radiator swap. I found a brand new in the box radiator on craigs list, and I did the swap. I bypassed all those hoses going in and out the heater box, and ran my hoses straight from the thermostat housing area to the box. One line is 3/4 and the other is 5/8.

Just did this swap on a XJ. The only difference really is the weight of the trans. Also -members are different. Some of the full size trucks came with a u-bolt style yoke thus eliminating the need for the adapter. Also their is a spicer part number for a 1310 companion flange, as well as a ford part number. I would stick with the spicer one if you can. Also the bolts that go into the flange are odd ball metric, and 12 point. I can't speak on the Drive shaft on the MJ, but I just did this swap ba/10 to ax 15 in a XJ with a D44 rear, and the drive shaft that was in it worked fine.

If my truck doesnt sell.. that is what is gong to happen to it. I was curious as to what ppl have done to the frame? Also how did they address the rear shackle mount. I have an Idea on what to do, but would rather be a copy cat.

I will have a used set of AA mounts available soon. I ned to finish stripping one of my rides.

There are a 191 pics in there so far that would be a lot of posting.

Here are SOME of the pics from the ride I just went on. I will post up more pics and vids as time allows http://community.webshots.com/user/cj7xjmj

THe Va4WDA Annual trail ride is sept 18-19. I wil be up there with MPJAI wheeing the chopped and caged XJ. If you see me drop by and say HI :cheers:

Well I got tired of looking at my stock bumper, so I decided to fab up a quick and easy bumper. Since this bumper was not meant to be used for extractions, I didnt build frame tie-ins. This is what I did. I have a front piece of an XJ frame with the x-memeber, so I used that for mock up. The corner pieces are 4x4x1/4 angle. The center section is 1/4x4 flat. I drilled all hole holes to 9/16's using an annular cutter. I also used all 12 mounting holes. Well after I tacked it together, I put it on the XJ is was meant to go on. For some reason both sets of corner holes were off 3/16's. So out came the plasma for a lil clearancing. I also welded everything up with my old school tombstone lincoln. Well now it was time for the center section. I had some 4x2x/14 C channel laying around. So I cut it to fit and welded in place. I ended up making the side pices out of 4x4 angle. I probrably should have used channel or flat stock. Over all it looks good. I still need to put caps on the ends and add a filler piece on the front center section. All in all not bad for 3 hrs worth of work. __________________

YOu can buy one for like 150 at Nothern. I can't see be able to build one any cheaper when you figure in how much time it will take :nuts:

Thats my Old setup I had on Pong. ON my XJ the turd, I am running RK setup. I have had zero issues with it.

IF he doesn't have one.. I have one as well. I had issues with the closed system as well, so I ended up doing the open conversion, and did away with all that heater hose crap there.

Well I learned a few things trying this swap. 1. TJ slave and master are different... at least the master is. 2. 96 xj master does not fit the AA kit 3. The AA kit has to be run along the firewall, over the brake booster then down to have enough line. Even then it is tight. 4.AA clutch line kit uses specail fittings that NAPA doent sell (thought there was a difference in line length and I was going to add a lil to make sure it would work)

I just did this swap. I used my old master with the Advance adapters Line. was it pricey.. oh hell yeah does it work oh hell yeah. Expect issues with t-case shifters as well

Thanks man

someone had a CAD drawing of it.... it was for the bumper/steering box. Kinda like you see everyone building now. I have access to a CNC plasma.. and was hoping to get the drawing so I could have some new brackets made.

I know a few yrs back some one had posted a printable pic of a mechanical drawing. Can some one please post it back up.. need to get some of them brackets made. Thanks

Check out my webshots page in my sig. Look at rebuild of Pong you can also see an interior cage build in New toy

You also need to swap the Throttle bodies over on the renix era motors. you wil need all the shifter linkage for the t-case. The TCU for renix era aw4's is under the glove box on the panel at knee hieght. You should have it on your rig anyways. You will need the wiring for it though. I would definately look into an aftermarket shifter for ease of swap.

After doing some more searching... decided too look in my Summit catalog. I figure for less then 15 bucks I should be able to pull off a trick shifter linkage. http://www.summitracing.com/search/?key ... sfl4&dds=1 I order a left and right female rod end. I will use some 1/4 all thread and see how it works. the parts will be here in a few days...I will keep you all posted