pingpong

I was talking about the pump... if you look on Mcmaster.com I am sure they have what you need, or can cross reference what you have to a comprable new one

I am an east coast wheeler... My rig is at 112" but I am lenghtening it out a lil.. probrably going to be back around 120" when done, BUt I am going to be on 42's with full belly skid, with that fancy plasctic on it :eek:

I have a custom one and a Rigidco one... The Rigid CO is by far one of the best mounting systems out there. I am not sure what Nates cost, but it didnt look to refined from the picture....

On the MJ frame there are 4 moutning holes all ready... and if you add 4 to the side that should be plenty, especially if there are welded in place. Most LA kits the center of the tranny x-memeber is removable

I personally do lots of welding. I use a Lincoln AC/DC welder. I also have a flux core welder that is 110v and I am here to tell you I don't use it anymore ever. "MIG" welding as it is refered to is the most cost effective welding there is. That being said a good quality welder is going to run between 450 and 600 for a light duty version. That is with a duty cycle between 40-60%. To get a 100% duty cycle (heavy duty) look at 1500 plus. "TIG" welding is a very precise form of welding and in the right hands is a beautiful thing. IT is also mostly used on alloy metal where normal conditons do not apply. Welding chromoly, or stainless. Also it is mostly used on pipe, and thin walled stuff. Go to your local community college or vo-tech school and sign up for a welding class. They will mostly likely teach you SMAW (stick) welding, and if you can do that GMAW (MIG) will come easily

Look at Terra Flexes Long arm upgrade kit. The mounts are simple.. and it uses the stock upper location. It is not the best when you get to 6.5" but at 4" it flexes good. The advantage to the radias arm style mounting is you only really need to buy to flex joints, as the axle end can be done with poly or hard bushings. You still need to run a trac bar, and limit straps and positive retention of the lower coil mount is a must. 3 link with panhard rod is another option, as is a dual triangulated 4 link. I strongly suggest you do some research on NAXJA, or Pirate.

They always say they need bigger :eek: Wife said that when my 42" Iroks showed up "i have seen bigger"

I am about 5 minutes past where you turn to head down to the campground. From the subdivisions boat ramp you can see the campground

I learned to drive a manual the hard way.. went and bought a new to me truck, and drove it off the lot :eek: never drove a 5 speed before that day :nuts:

Its not that we hate it... it is that it doesnt function right once you lift it, and most of the time the lines rust in 2 behind the gas tank.

I have F150 springs in Casper... it is like riding in a buck wagon.

Yeah you have to ask about it... a guy in the club had a long travel front on his Scrambler, and the bottom part let go in the splines... and he covered it. I think the warranty is like 50bucks...

I think they are the same.... but I am not 100% on that. I know the stub shafts are the same, and the bolt pattern are the same

Longer studs are not always better.. What I mean is if the lug but isnt deep enough you will not be able to tighten the lugs up enough

Prep is the key to succesfully recolroing interior parts.

U-haul is just trying to cover their butt cause if you kill/hurt someone in a wreck they will be sued as well. Its all about liability factor. Before I bought my trailer I was debating buying a tow dolly cause of how much cheaper they are.. after doing lots of research, I went with a trailer cause they have their own brakes. When I bought my truck... I debated between half ton and 3/4 ton.. went with 3/4 ton cause it had the bumper and over all weight rating to carry what I want with a margin for error. I will put this out there for everyone and anyone. If you are somewhat local, and need your rig towed I will do it for Gas. I would rather sacrafice some time.. then someone get killed or hurt. Dave that a nice Zuk... I would love to find a nice shell so I can put some of my spare parts to use :D

:needpics: you knew it was coming

why not buy a new lung for it... much cheaper. Also look in the local classifieds... you can sometimes find a compressor that has a burnt up motor for lil or nothing... being you got a good motor

Yeah you never know about that stuff when it comes from a J-yard.

Jeff, you sure you have the right lug nuts... I know it sounds stupid, but some rims reguire different lug nuts. The rule of thumb concerning nuts in genereal is full thread engagemant meaning at least the diameter of the stud or bolt...

I keep telling the wife the rigs are for her when I buy them.. knowing she will hate them, and it will be added to my fleet :smart: now i have 4 rigs sitting in the yard all needing different kinda work :wrench:

Just replace the u-joints... and re-grease the shaft

The SYE is definately a strength thing.... also a pice of mind thng that the slip yoke won't come out from over flexing. As far as the driveshafts go... if you don't get a SYE go to the JY and get some used shafts. If you go with any of the big makers.. buy their trail insurance if they offer it.. I had a TW one built for Pong, and needless to say over time it had been flat spotted and had some candy cane marks on it.. didnt buy the insurance.. had to have it re-tubed locally, which only cost a lil over 100 bucks

My wifey hates my hobby cause she sees how much time and money I spend on it. If I am not wrenching, I am researching, or looking at catalogs, tools. Pretty much my life revolves around work, wrenching, and wheeling... mostly wrenching and wheeling as of late though :cry:

Bush Park Estates... it is on the left on your way down to Deltaville. I actually live in Hardyville. If you go past BelAir estates yo have gone to far. I would love for you to come down this weekend Unlimited, but I am working 3-11 shift :cry: