pingpong

I am glad you went this route. Building suspension components for street rigs have a lot of liability in it... and unless you have done it before, or installed one it is hard to know what works and don't work.

Northern's frieght company (or who they use) suck. They called me the other day and wanted to set up a shipping date.. no biggy except the only come to my area Mon, Wens, And friday. They didnt tell me this when I first talked to the rep. So I sewt it up with my wifey to be here on tues.. cal them back and they say we don't come there on that day. Then the rep went on abou how if I signed a piece of paper their trucker will drop ship it... I say HELL NO. explaining that this is an expensive piece of equipment, and I am not going to accept it.. sight unseen. Then she proceedes to tell me.. we don't like holding things on the shipping dock for a long time... well I tell her that she can deliver it on the 16 of july or I will just cancell my order and she can take it back to where she got it from :eek: Wel she said she would deliver it on the 16..I just hope it arrives undamaged.. that would suck, cause they would be taking it back

Looks like John Deere Green to me :D

May I ask why? If you keep the renix intake it need the EGR tube hooked to the manifold inorder for it to work right. I suppose you could put a plug in it, but when I did the swap I just re-used the renix style exhaust manifold

You can swap a HO head on to a renix motor... just have to keep the renix exhaust manifold. Also you have to use the HO valve cover as the old style wil not fit

NIce.... I can t wait to see this thing finished.. maybe motivat me some more

I too was thinking it was a bit steep cause they are stock axle... even though they are rubicons. for 2 grand you can find 14 d60 for that in useable shape.. just add brackets and acallit good. On the other hand it is a bolt on mod that will greatly enhance his riding experience. I would have done it differently if it was me, but its not . I hope you enjoy and take lots of pics

I had the same problem with Dewalt cut off wheels from Lowes :eek: I also don't buy anything but Lennox sawzall blades.. by far they are the best out there. Last a good while and they cut good

I am willing to bet that your alignment is causing your DW.... it is more then likely a combination of being toed in and caster being off

It is possible to cut and fold, but just the whole bed off it won't get in the way of trees then

Go with the TNT kit then

love the scrambler

I get about the same pulling the trailer with my rig on it :eek: and I can go 75 while towing and stil have pedal left to pass

Go with an 8" rim then.. thats all I run with my rigs... Hell Pong will be running recentered H1's (something like a 7.25 rim) with 14 inch wide tires :nuts:

I just bought a 24' piece of 2x4 and it was a nice chunk.... so unless you know a place that will sell to you cut metal... look at spending better then 100 on that. A nice bed... well it is all about location... out west a rust free bed is worth less then say in the snow belt/rust belt... to me its worthless cause beds are for sleeping in :D and I have no time to sleep ;) a good figure will depend on wha the market can bear.. around here ppl give them away cause no one restores MJ's in this area as a whole... a few ppl wheel them, but not many

I have been looking into FOA seem like they are the best bang for the buck

Keep the winch... You can always use it :brows: The front bumper will transfer over as well. Keep it too. Much easier to keep what you got then buy new. I think your plan is solid... I say remove the whole bed and sell it.. then look at making your own flatbed. The sale of the bed and other crap should pay for the materials needed to make a flat bed

I really am thinking of painting my junk pink :eek: call it the anti barbie rig :D and get "BARBJP " for the plates :brows:

IT had 4" Back spacing and it was in the front The fenders were not cut at all

lock off valve... explain more about this

Welcome and look forward to seeing pics

Removing the bed has it own set of problems to deal with :brows: I am not trying to be negative, but I want him to think about it before he goes full bore into it. How are you going to mount your fuel tank? How are you going to mount your tail lights? Are you going to be able to reamin street legal? In my personal opinion I say everyone should cut the frame and have some tube bent and call it good :D

There is one for me too, but none of them had one in stock :cry: So my choices were to have it shipped either way. Or wait for the store t order one and then go pick it up 14-21 days from now, and the stores"near" me are at least an hour and a half ride each way. So by the time you figure travel time and gas... shipping was about the same price. The reason why I say travel time... that means I am not working... and where I work getting overtime is like getting candy at halloween. The only truck I have gets 14 mpg no matter how easy you take it on it... so the 65 miles each way adds up quick to a few dollars as well

I had problems with 31 x 12.5 xterrians rubbing on 4" of lift on 10" wide rims

yeah on the frame it will be.. on sheet metal well it might be too big. Make sure you store your rods so they stay dry... by a plastic rod holder, or get an old tool box and put a 60 watt light bulb in it and turn it on for a few hours before you go to weld... it evaporates the moisture in the rods