pingpong

If she was dressed like a slut I would be asking more questions :brows: but trying to swoop in on someones wholesome girl is just wrong

I got one good deal so to speak off of ebay... I bought a t350 tonp203 adapter for 26 bucks :eek: they normally go for way more, but no deal like that. Notice how the second guy did lots of research, and took lots more pictures. wether or not there wasn't some ghost bidding taking place I don't know.

Go to your local Dodge dealer and get a set of mopar perches, or call Jegs and get them, that is where jeff got his. I think your front plan is a lil rough riding. Ford coils will make your rig ride like a dump truck, why not just buy a nice used set of coils that are designed for your rig? You didnt mention anything about changing your upper or lower control arms, said nothing about shocks,or brake lines. T-case drop not needed, just make sure when you weld the perches on the angle is the same on t-case and pinion

Where I am at to have a driveshaft retubed and balanced is only around 125-150

Full size Chevy drop shackles from a mid 80's truck depending on which make you get will give you anywhere from 1-2"depending on how bad your leaf packs are. The down side is it changes your pinion angle and moves the front of the tire closer to the bed

Seeing and hearing these stories makes me wonder why more of us aren't dead :brows: I have some interesting tow stories as well, but most of mine involve me being passenger, or in the military in a third world country. Transporting a "picking beam" as an iron worker in the late 90's the guy who hooked it up didnt check ball size, or hook up tow chains... needless to say lost a trailer going down I-64 with a 25' piece of I-beam on it.. of course it ran another car into a concrete wall.. everyone walked away The other intersting tow story.. on TDY in El Salvador I was riding in a duece and a half when the generator trailer decided it was going to break at the coupler :eek: by the time we got the duece stopped we had gouged the dirt road a good 500 to 600 feet, spilled all our extra diesel and made a hella mess.

Those are some cool looking buggies

Looks great.. we could have drilled and tapped that while you were here ;) He was right we drank lots of beer The best was watching a old Ford flex.. or the lack there of. When you get the u-bolts and junk... you need to come on down so we can install the lift, modify the back bumper(put rock rails back), and complete its transition to the dark side By the way thanks for the beer :D

I had a lowrider s-10 with a removable hard top back in the late 90's :eek: it leaked like a submarine with a screen door :oops: but what do you expect for a cheap beater :nuts:

:hmm: Jeff what were you thinking :smart: Now that you have entered the darkside.. lets remove more sheetmetal.. and put bigger tires on it :driving:

BUt 2" lowering shackles from a chevy do :brows:

I wanted to see the minivan on the trail :brows:

Jeff we need pictures :needpics: I am sure you got the perches painted by now :D

If I was going out and buying a lift kit there are a few things it would have to have especially if I was going over 4.5" of lift Upper adjustable arms A heavy duty style trac bar that mounts the frame side in Double shear also a set of quality disconnects ( JKS or similar style) Pretty much everything else is almost identical just painted different colors... I can almost swear that which ever company that made the Rough country lowers is the same that made a set of Rusty's control arms I have, the only difference I see is the color :eek: The only advice I give when buying any kit is make sure they include all NEW hardware, and buy your shocks after you have installed your kit and flexed it

I totally agree... a shaft never breaks where it is easy to change. The whole "c" clip non "c" clip debate has raged for yrs. There is no replacement for ring gear and shaft size... so needless to say the D35 and GM 7.5 break more often then say a Semi floating D60. The only true way to make sure you are not immobilized on the trail is to go full floating axles and then carry spares. BTW 35 spline D60 shafts are rasonable :brows: and ppl will just about give you their 31 spline ones :D

more pics added

Its even less now :brows: Everything got pulled including the front windshield... even got some welding done on Jeff's axle

http://community.webshots.com/album/560507487ZBhyCH check out the album.. I have to have the axles out from under it, and it ready to go the scrap yard before today is over :nuts:

Come on down.. you can see what I got going on this weekend :nuts:

Yeah superior make a Super88 kit which eliminates the "c" clip as well. I can tell you from experience these axles are a beast, and the diff cover isn't worth a poo Poo. I think the reason why BTF uses them small head bolts is they don't get bashed as easily as a hex head.

I have one of his FBW on Pong, and he is way backed up like posted earlier, but I will say his work is definately top notch. All the welds were perfect, the directions were awesome as well. Even the shipping was reasonable, but it did take like 2 months to get it, and that was 2 yrs ago

Did you get the perches welded on yet? If not I am off this weekend.

It is amazing what ppl think there stuff is worth :brows: I can't tell you how many times I have gone by an old farm and seen a non running vehicle sitting there (usually obvious by the grass being as tall as the vehicle), and offered what i thought would be a reasonable price to buy said ride and remove it from the yard just to be laughed at... keep in mind most of the time they are far from complete.. missing tires and othere varios parts

That build is pretty sick.... I know there is a post on PBB some where wher there is nothing left but the "frame rails inside a XJ that shows how weak the uni-bodies are. I have been driving the tan turd with no cage and no back half for the last few months and I havent seen or felt any bad effects from it