pingpong

Thank you for being a MJ friendly vendor. BTW Motion Offroad has great customer service :brows:

If you are coming to get Pong.. and all the parts Bring about 18 grand, I prefer large denominations, makes it easier to count. MINI, you running this setup? If so what size springs and tires are you running?

I abused a LWB Mj for a few yrs before I truggied it. Key to wheeling it is strong rock rails... and a srtong rear bumper with side protection. Even with that being said, It is still possible to bash sheetmetal :brows: IF you Don't have one, you might want to armor your gas tank as well.

OK we need details... was it stock or after market... where was the break at... the upper side, or the lower side?

Basically it has a 1 upper link, and 2 bent lower links. The upper mounts in roughly the same area as the lower, so they are almost the same legth. The lower is bent for clearance. You still use a trac bac and mount.

Well a few PPl know I have been secretly gathering parts to build a "cheap" trail rig :eek: So here is what we started with I have owned it for a year, and have had a good time driving it around, until the driverside power window stopped working :mad: IN the middle of stripping the interior Some of the cool parts for it I still have to swap out the tranny and re do the suspension. So far I have Order the Rock Krawler 3 link kit :eek: I have the tranny (an aw4 with a 231w an AA SYE all ready in it). Jeff When you and TJ coming down ;) Tires will either be Procomp AT's or a set of Dunlop Mud Rovers... No room in the budget for what I want 34x9.5 LTB's As always I am open to ideas and suggestions... but more the llikely I won't listen and still build it the way I want :D

The main issue with using the AA kit is if you plan on being 4wd. You need at least 3" of lift, and it moves the engine over to the passenger side 1".. which is good for ppl running driver drop axles... for ppl like me it sucks :eek:

Living in a community with water (be it a creek,marsh, river, or a Bay) means there might be restrictions on what you can do within so many feet of that creek. Here in the Cheasapeake Bay area the restrictions are getting really bad, to the point where on some parcels you need to do an enviromental study before you touch anything. I just pulled a permit to build a deck.... for every tree I cut down over 12" in diameter I have to plant 2 more :nuts:

There are a few ways to test for blown head gaskets. Here are some symptoms to look for. Loss of water :brows: if you are not losing water more then likely no blown head gasket. Unexplained missing :brows: Water don't burn :brows: water coming out the tail pipe(not as common as other tell tail signs, especially with the length of the exhaust). Also if you pull your plugs and they look "steam" cleaned. Then there is also a pressure tester to test your whole cooling sytem, but be warned.. doing this often finds the weak spot in your cooling system and pushes fluid out.

I swear by Doesch tech (sp) they are kinda cheap and work great

I am almost positive that unless you have a really long XJ you won't be able to use you TW shafts as it is... But most driveline shops will retube/lengthen it for less then a third of a new one Also look for MJ jeff's build... we swapped a MJ d44 under his rig, but we went soa... pretty much the same thing. Just moving spring perches around

XJ shocks can work up front, but not in the rear. I would suggest that you buy a set of bayonet elimantors for the front. This maked the front a hoop to hoop setup, which greatly increases your shock choices. They only cost about 30 bucks.

PAt, Can you explain this hard wiring of the NSS? I am getting ready to do this swap on a XJ I own, but will have a MJ tailgat when done :eek:

I have several slip joint shafts laying around..... as a matter of fact Pong's old one has 8" of slip travel.. with 6" for down travel :D

Basically I am going to take whatever parts I need Of Of Pongs Old motor :eek: The 4.0 isnt staying in there :brows: So basically I need the wiring harness all the cables hooked to the auto tranny, Flex plate/flywheel.. a floor shifter and I am good? I think I have all that laying around :oops: AS for the driveshaft... I have Pongs old one.. which if too long.. will be retubed and shortened :nuts: and if that doesnt work... I have a few spare ford, jeep, and IH shafts laying around :eek:

In my vast experience.. If you apply gas and it stumbles, you might have a fuel delivery problem. I would make the educated guess that the fuel pump is on its way out

It would be easier to guess if we had a picture to look at :nuts:

Here is my situation. I have a 90 AW4 with np231, with a SYE insatlled in the garage. MY question is what all do I need to swap that into the Turd, which has the beloved puke goat in it. I got the the TCU from a 1987, but not sure of everything I need to pull this swap off. Any help would be great.

You say you are going through rotors.... My quetion is why? :hmm: Are you installing them right? :wrench: You know the center nut require 175FT LBS of torque. MOst off the shelf torque wrenches only go to 150 :mad: This is one of those situations where Tight just might not be tight enough. You also didnt mentin wether or not this rig is wheeled, and wheeled hard, This could cause them to wear. What size tires are you running, and what is the offset? Stock is like 5" of BS, nost ppl run anywhere from 3.5 to 4.5 of BS which all can contribute to the wear of your bearing. Just a few things to think about before you buy wheel bearings with out a life time/ or 1 yr warranty. ON the warranty note... Advance only gave me one replacement set :mad: needless to say I found a wheeler friendly Napa, who under cut their price plus gave me a 1yr warranty, which I never needed to use :eek: :D

I think its all good.... I would definately boat side and bob the J truck :brows: As for the FSJ more boats side and some dove tailing along with FI set up :nuts:

Well I will be wrenching on the Turd :D Just got the rest of my front axle parts in :cheers: So it on Like Donkey Kong :brows: Goal is to truss te front axle... Install gears and lock rights front and rear... fix cut brake line.. remove tranny from Pong... and go to a Church picnic Sat and to services on Sunday.. I think I will be able too... if I leave the suds alone :nuts:

OK 31's clear fine up front.. but a spacer makes it look better. If you want to get a 2" lift try using some mid 80's drop shackles... The last set I used measured 8 3/4 eye to eye.. and had another hole 1" lower then that :D You have to think outside the box when it comes to a lot of lift parts for the rear

Yeah I will be home in the morning... Probrably wrenching on my junk... bring parts to trade and beer.. I am sure I have something you need :brows:

:roll: thats just ghey :roll:

Everyone bags on the AMC 20. With minor work it is a stout axle. Shafts are cheap... as are most parts for it.. as for the tubes... truss it... and weld them to the pumpkin. Kinda like everyone does to the 8.8. The biggest problem with the axles you are trying to use are... Diff on the wrong side :eek: EASILy fixed by running a D300 after a few mods (floor boards and shifters), then there is the problem of the weaker 260 U-joints :mad: which are the same ones you are running if you have 90 and older axles :oops: