pingpong

I just got done putting disc brakes on a d44 :D I found out that early NON "C" clip axles have the same bolt pattern on the flanges after I had the ZJ brakets redrilled :oops: Otherwise I would have saved this Mod for when I had extra cash.

Well I made some progress.. at least somewhat. The front axle is in, and together. Found out the hard way that 94 unit bearings are larger then 87 ones... and my rotors wouldnt fit over top of them :cry: so I had to assemble my front axle twice. Also learned that my front axle is now higher then the rear by a good inch :nuts: :mad: and I am trying to figure that out. Had one slight issue with my RK kit.. and Adam was great and called me, and we came up with a plan. I will post up some pics when i take a few.

Good question.. I don't have a good answer. I know GC brakes can be modded. I am having a set bored and redrilled as we speak for my xj D44. Thanks to some trading and batering (thanks jeff) I will have 100 bucks in my disc conversion... including machine work.

I know the heads to them are 13 MM... and a PITA to change

Its going to have to be shortened. There is really no cheap way of having a custom lenght shaft done.

Once I get my gears broken in, and go to change the fluid, I am going to make my own using 1/4 plate and a spare stock cover... Bascially a rock ring style setup. I too had the BTF cover for my 8.8... my only issue was the 12 point bolts the use.. man once you mangle them its a PITA to get them off :oops:

Wow.. all this discusion on a SYE. The main advantage of using on is the ability to pull your rear shaft WHEN it gets damaged by a rock. That being said... If you carry spare DS not an issue. As for what shafts to use.. Look at full size fords of the late 70's and some of the early 80's. Most of them had a Double cardan style shaft.

I am willing to bet that the rig being on axle stands an axle being on a jack has something to do with this. I had the same setup on Pong for a yr or so.. and it works

I over build my junk, BUT I reccomend alloy shafts if you wheel and drive your rig from the trail. I personally have broken alloy shafts on 35's :eek: :nuts: Its no fun to change a shaft on a trail when your junk is off chamber and you can't go forward or backward :brows:

Thanks Adam. I should get back to working on it tommorow. I am hoping to get the x-member welded up, and make a decision on making a new one, or keeping my hodge podge stock one. I am also hoping to pull the stock front axle, and get the one I am going to use mocked into place.

Hopefully I have it figured out... Bad things is.. won't be able to work on it again till Saturday :cry: I have 12 hours the next 2 days, and it will be dark by the time I get home. Did I mention I am suppose to go Jet Skiing all day Saturday :nuts: don't look like I am going to make that.

Well Never made my goal of finishing by July. :oops: I have started working on it again. So far I have mounted the RK brackets. I didnt take any pics while doing this though. A few observations. It is a royal PITA to drill the inside hole. If I had to do it all over again I would have just welded the brackets to the frame :brows: or bought a 90* drill Right now mine are bolted and tacked welded. I will final weld them when I finish figuring out the x-memeber. Here is a pic of the mount in place. You can kinda see how far off the x-member will be. The Puke goat and ax 15 x memebrs are different. So I decided I would cut up the puke goat one and see how things looked. Here you can see how much they are off. First plan in the garbage Second plan... notch out a spare x-member and then weld them together. Basically I cut 2.25" off the front of the x-member. I will see how this turns out and looks, then decide if I should go total custom, or flange the stock one with 4 bolts and go with that.

According to my sorces (Randy's diff book) it should be a D44 UNLESS its a crew cab then it could be a D60. Only problem with the early ford d60's small axle shafts

I have personally found 7-8* to be best, but with a good alignment it shouldnt matter. The drive shaft angle would be what I was worried about, it will cause vibes. :brows:

I gopt ready to do on the xj I did the ford radias arm conversion on... till I drove the thing.. and it rode like crap... so I started to part it out :nuts: Back to the mounts... I say drill the spot welds and remove it in a way where you can put them back on

Wish I could have enough land so no one could see my junk.

I understand you.. and agree. Basically look at a late 70's ford.. and it is a very similar setup.

On my junk that will never be done.. I am running a passenger drop axle.. so I went with a np203 and d300 doubler :eek: Needless to say its still in the project phase as I am building another rig at the moment :oops: I used a Jed's maching setup. Search on Pirate.. and you will find a few different setups// with prices to match

Look at the way Rock Krawler did their 3 link. Still use a stock x memeber if you have an AW4 or ax 15.

BY far the TNT kit is the best. You always can look at some of the fab websites. Ballistic fab has some good brackets, but I will not recommend them. I have order from them in the past and it took a month to get them, and they billed my credit card before they shipped the parts

I have had on going issues with my home owners association. To the point of where they called the county on me. Mind you I did my research on the county ordinances, and knew what my rights were. Of course the county came out and talked to me. End result.. Now I am even more of a A-hole when it comes to when and what I do in my yard :D By the way my county ordinance reads (to paraphrase) " all cars have to be able to roll. You can have one vehicle that is non mobile. Al cars have to be titled in your name, and county taxes paid. "

Sorry about that man... If you need another head... I have one or two :D

I don't think you are going to find a jeep shaft that will be long enough. Try looking at late 70's ford front.. might have some luck with that. Or you could take you current rear shaft and a front shaft down to a driveline shop and get them to make you one

That just sucks man. why were you pulling that stud though? I thought the intake was off. some of them factory studs.. I just leave in there.. to much of a PITA to get out.. and as you have found out they break easily.

If you are certified you would know why your welds were not holding. To me not seeing the welds or knowing the machine you are using... your heat is down too low, or the machine isnt big enough to weld what you want to weld. If you heat the tubes to red hot.. you might have problems controlling the weld.