pingpong

Your design is sound. I think a bar goingfrom side to side by the cowl panel will increase your strength a lot. Also for rollover protection, adding some diaganols that are higher in the center, will make a big differenece. When matt designed my cage that was a key part of the design. Also windshield bars. In the event of a rollover, ther is a chance even with a well built and triangulated cage that the cage will deflect some. Thats why my rig has the diaganol in the B-pillar hoop. Also a door bar is important. I know you want to keep your doors and keep it "street legal". we can discuss this in length why I did certain things on my rig, most of it was function over form. Patrick

Wheel it w/o the fron driveshft :twisted: BTW you rig will never be finished :wink:

Thats cool. I would look at the way Rigidco ties in both frame horns, and the steering box support then. Might as well make it functional :wink:

The non-c-clip axles are stout. Except for the weak tubes, the axle holds up fine, or at least it did for me. I kept bending tubes. I believe with some bracing it might be a "decent"axle, if it is not abused. don't forget you will need to get a install kit, and have the gears installed. This can run into some big bucks. By NO means is this post any kinda support for a D35, I just did not have a problem snapping shafts on 33's.

If I am not mistaken, the yoke on the D44 is 3/4 of an inch longer, some one else on here who has done this swap will be able to tell you better. I don't see why ther would be a problem though. Patrick

If I understand your post, you want to know if there is a way to tell if the axle has c-clips or not w/o pulling the cover? The answer is YES. The tubes will bulge out if it is a NON-C-CLIP axle right before the axle flanges. These bulges will be noticeable. OR the axle will have a square key way in the center of the axle, when looking at the mounting flange. Patrick

I just think ppl put to much emphasise on things that might break. I wheeled for a yr, with no form of brace on 33's, zero issues. See for me it is easy enough to get overtime, so sometimes it is better to get something fabbed or buy it off the shelf then to try and make it myself. Limited amount of time off is reserved for importyant things, like loading up my rig, and wheeling, or getting ready to wheel

I am running the Rigidco FBW and it has a steering box brace built into the mounting system. Really top notch craftsmenship as well. Here comes your problem in your theory of making it for 8 bucks. Your time and materials :shock: Anyways, :wink: I think the steering box brace is over rated. I know quite a few ppl running 35's and one running 37's with zero issues and no box brace. Would i do it :? depends on how tight I am. Personllay I think the key is to keep the bolts tight, and keep the bottom of the steering box (where the pitman arm mounts) rigid. Maybe something like a cj7 steering box brace that has been modded would work. Patrick

There are so many good axle choices out there it is unbeliveable. One of my favorites besides the 8.8 is the Isuzu D44. Disc brakes :D , drop out third section :D last but not least 4.56 was a common gear ratio :twisted: Did I mention Troopers, and older amigo's are cheap :wink:

I ran the Chevy drop shackle long before it became a popular item. I had zero issue with it. Keep in mind that it is only being bolted to 1/8 metal at best. What would you rather have fatigue, the frame, cause the shckle wouldn't bend :shock: :? AS for the AAL they are more work, and unless they were designed for a SUA vehicle, the arch might not be enough to give you the advertised lift. I have run these as well, and most ussually stiffen up your ride, and generally are not worth the money in MY opinion. The best option, and the most expensive is new springs. This is what I ended up going with when I needed something to give me some boost :wink:

Thats Right :D

I think you are trying to copy me :wink: Flat black, doorless :shock: whatcha going to do next.. cut the frame behind the cab :twisted:

I like your battery Jeff :wink:

Call Matt @ Independent4x. I know he can get them, he might even have one in stock.

Glad to help you

NO. This will cause unpredictable results twist your leaf springs, and generally do bad things for your jeep. Bushings are not meant to be kept in a constant state of bind that this will cause.

I don't se any link or pic. Anyways... we as Jeepers have to keep an open mind, and look at the craftsmanship, and pride the owners of lowriders have. Keep in mind they might be thinking the same thing about your jeep. I personally like the murals and paint jobs on some of the lowriders I have seen in my area :shock: As for ricers... Most comp buggies are running 4 banger motors out of those ricers :? and some of them are running 10's in the 1/4. Just some food for thought :wink:

I am sorry that I didn't read this post sooner. My tip would have been to support your jeep with some tall and strong jack stands. Then undo your u-bolts (I just cut them off) Then undo brake line, and e-brake cables. Then undo rear shackle mount at the axle. Then roll the axle back. Then bolt rear shackle back up Position rear axle under leaf spings, with spring perches set in place Aim pinion at the back of the t-case, loosley bolting the u-bolts in place. Remove jackstands. Check pinion angle at ride height. Adjust as needed Tack weld, then remove axle again to preform finsih weld. For strength I recommend plating the front and rear of the spring perches. After that you will find that your stock shock location (long bed) will be pretty useless. Then make or buy new shock mounts. If you have any questions feel free to ask. I am sure I forgot a few steps, but this swap can be accomplished in a few hours if you have all the parts and the skills to do it.

NEW spring perches are less then 20 bucks at your local Advance Auto parts store. Just have them look in their Mr. gasket catalog. Patrick

Like the other poster has all ready said, if you are chunking the clutch packs out all ready it is too late. A LSD equals limited traction. Yes they are better than an open, but only marginally. I welded up my LSD 8.8 on my trail rig, and I have all ready chunked one set of spider gears :twisted: If it was my rig, I would go buy a spool and set the gears up and call it good :shock: Keep in mind my rig is strictly trail only :shock: If I had a street rig, and money was tight, I would buy an open carrier and spiders, and run that until I could afford an ez locker or a lock right. These are just MY opinion and results may vary depending on your wheeling style :wink:

I READ on one of the forums I visit abou just flipping the VD housing cover over, and it locking the 2 shafts together. I have also read of ppl using washers, and the what not. Do some research before you shell out $100 for something you can do for almost nothing. Patrick

When I was whopping for my LA's I asked every company I called if THEY had installed the product on a MJ yet. All of them said NO, SO I did a lil research, and found out what had to be changed on my own, and went the cheaper route, and have benn somwhat pleased with the results. I have been running Rusty's 6.5 coils for over 2yrs now and for over a yr I have had my winch bumper and winch on the front. Yes it has settled some, but not what everyone else id experiencing. I am suprised that your rear springs have settled that much all ready. That doesn't bode well for their longevity. MY alcan springs stil are stiff as $h!t, and I have over flexed them alot. As for not recieving all the product when it was shipped, I would have sent it all back, and said, "when you ship me a whole kit, I will accept it, till then I will keep my money" Patrick

Use full size chevy drop shackles. the work great. Keep in mind that when you change your shackles, you will be moving your axle forward. Which can cause fitment issues on the front edge of the wheel well

I'm 6'1" and go 275 on the hoof :shock: Its funny watching me gety my fata$$ in my rig especially with the door bars and no tilt wheel :cry: That why I normally don't get out to take pics :wink:

Do a pressure check on the Cooling system. it is the easiest way to find if the cooling system has a leak. Are you having to add coolant to the motor? Is the oil milky white, or is it good in color? also does the engine have a sporatic miss in it? Patrick