Geonovast

Even if it was just the dust cover, and got the valve stuck open... these are interference motors, and the piston may have smacked the valve.

:banana:

Truck's originally a 4 speed. It should have 3.55.

I'd keep it a 2.5, with an external slave 4wd AX-5 and try to track down some 4.10 axles for it.

Picture size limit would be nice.

The axle change still did slightly change their angle of operation, even if the pinion angle was correct. If balancing the wheels doesn't do it, I'd change the U-joints anyway.

You think he'd ever let all that chrome get smudgy? :shake:

No, they are not. The AW-4, AX-4/5, and BA 10/5 crossmembers are the same. The AX-15's is similar, but different.

I think you'll need the other crossmember. I'm 99% sure the AX-15 had its own, and all the other XJ/MJ trannys used the other crossmember. I can't say for sure, I've never been under an 00 or 01 XJ 4.0 with a 5 speed. I know there are a few people on this board looking for AX-15 crossmembers. edit. Upon some further investigation, the NV3550 uses the AX-15 crossmember. Hopefully someone on here actually has an XJ with a NV3550 and can chime in for sure.

Uh... No. Not even close. You need at Renix flexplate.

Eh?

86 will do you no good. No 4.0s or AW-4s in 86. There is no difference between an auto or manual CPS. Pretty sure the ignition switch itself is the same. The NSS, that prevents the truck from starting in anything than P or N, is on the trans. There's no T-case support crossmember. The BA 10/5 and AW-4 use the same trans crossmember, and there's no difference between 2wd and 4wd. What you're probably thinking of is the T-case skid plate, which is optional. It provides no support. Forget the power/comfort switch. Jump it in power mode and leave it. Comfort mode is essentially useless.

Believe so. I just can't express my discontent enough for the dislike of the appearance of the vBulletin. Correy T. :ack:

2 door XJ doors will not fit on an MJ. 4 door front doors are identical to MJ doors.

Yours is 2wd, his is 4wd. All Jeep NP 231s have a 27 spline output, there won't be any yoke issues. For the output shaft... that's between the trans and T-case. Pukeys have a 21 spline output, AX-15's have a 23 spline output. Your current T-case will not bolt up to an AX-15. If you get the trans from the 96, you'll need the pilot bushing from a 74 CJ with a 304. Pukey and AX-15 are the same length, so there won't be any need for new driveshafts.

Any AX-15 trans will go in, although the easiest ones would be 89-91. You will need an AX-15 trans crossmember as well. There are a bunch of threads on this swap, search for AX-15 swap.

Was 3.04 last Tuesday, 3.14 on Thursday, 3.25 on my way into school tonight and all were 3.29 on my way out...

Pete, I think you need to have your eyes checked.

My Eagle court was nothing like that.

Locker or no locker those 35s are likely to snap the D35 anyway. It's just not financially smart to put money into locking a 35.

I'll run through it with ya if you'd like.

You got any of the Halos? I see you've played Reach..

I have a full gauge cluster with the big fuel gauge instead of the tach, but no cutout for the shift indicator. I bought this because I thought I could just swap over my fuel gauge w/cutout from my idiot light cluster to this one. Unfortunately, that wasn't the case - it didn't fit for one reason or another. However, if I could simply swap gauge faces, I'd be fine. Oh, forgot about those. :doh: The DIY would probably still apply. A little more, work, but you wouldn't be risking screwing up the gauge by removing the needle.

The electronics are also not there for the fuel gauge, they're for the tach. There's a writeup in the DIY section on how to cut out the faceplate on the tach and to install the shift indicator light.