Geonovast

This only works if you have a LSD or locked rear end. If the rear axle is open, you need to jack up one rear tire, leave the other on the ground, and rotate the wheel twice.

Good choice.

Yup, as I thought, external slave bearing retainer with an internal slave bellhousing. You're going to have to change one of them. :wrench:

Piiiiiiiiiics. Even if you have an internal slave bell, you pretty obviously still have the external slave bearing retainer, which would explain your slave issues. If you can get some pics of what you've got, I'll be able to tell you for sure.

You can facepalm one of the comments...

Actually no. The 2.5 uses a GM 60 degree bolt pattern for the bell. The 2.5 and 2.8 used the same transmission, same bells. Also, converting to a manual is probably going to be less work than getting a different automatic to work properly.

If the tach was set for a 4, and you have it on a 6, it would actually read high, not low. The needle was probably fubared at some point. You'll probably be alright just swapping out the tach.

I am 100% sure that is a 4.0 bellhousing. It's an AX-15. landlubber's picture is misleading, as they are an AX-5 and AX-15 next to each other, but they both have a 2.5 bell.

Awesome, I'll hit up the hardware stores in the morning after work. No Fastenals around here, but there's a pretty big hardware store just up the road. Thanks Don.

It's becoming urgent I get ahold of some of these. My hatch won't open at all now, I'm 99.99% sure why, I can get it to open by getting through the inner trim, but I really need these bolts before I go messing with it, in case I can't get it to latch again.

94+ XJ/YJ/TJ will have an external slave.

Converting to an external on an AX-15 is pretty much identical to doing it on an AX-4/5. You need the external bellhousing, shift fork, throwout bearing, external style bearing retainer, slave cylinder, and the line. I believe you can get Master/line/slave combos already assembled and bled.

Rockauto has them listed under the 4.0. The only have the single plug ones for the manual under the 2.5, but the 4.0 should be the same.

You may need to drop the transmission down a bit by unbolting the crossmember from the framerails, but you shouldn't have to pull the trans itself. I've never personally done it, so I don't know the specifics.

All you'll need is the floor shifter components out of an XJ or MJ. Everything will bolt right up, your 4wd linkages will all stay the same. You might want to get ahold of a floor shifter column as well. I'm sure there's someone on here who would be interested in the column shifter stuff, they're pretty hard to find.

94 was the beginning of the external slave. It's a nice option to have, but not something to hold out for if it's a must-have-now kind of thing. 99 was the last year for the AX-15 in the XJ. 00 and 01 got the NV3550.

I got a clicker-style PT from O'reillys, one of the few tools of mine that isn't a Craftsman, and I like it. I don't remember how high it goes, don't think it quite goes to 250. I actually haven't been to a Harbor Freight in years, despite there being one less than 2 miles away... should fix that...

Amen. Had them for a little over a year when I lived with my mother-in-law, out in the middle of friggin nowhere. It was literally the only internet available, we were paying almost $100 a month for "1.6 Mbit down, 256kbit up", but it usually ran about a tenth of that, with a ping time of about a second. The daily bandwidth cap was probably the worst thing about it.

I give mine a pat on the bed every time I see them, and apologize that I don't have the ability to fix them and drive them.

Amount of lift = axle tube diameter + two times spring perch height + thickness of springpack.

What was that on? AX-15 / BA10-5 clutch is a 10 spline.

I'm a little confused as to what you're referring to.

What cut off bolts? If you mean the two alignment dowels on each side of the block that the two bolts go through, YOU NEED THOSE. We were missing one when we swapped my brother's motor, and one of the bolts fell out, causing some major clutch/starter problems for him when I was 600 miles away.

Did you use a proper alignment tool when installing the clutch? Whenever I would get to the point of knowing that the pilot tip was in the bearing and the splines were engaged, I would get a longer bolt for the bottom two bolts, and thread them in to pull the trans up to the motor. When I did it on my 2.5(may not be possible with the AX-15/4.0), I got the trans sitting on the crossmember without the mount, got under the truck, benchpressed the trans, and just wiggled the f*cker until it popped in. Make sure there is NOTHING pinched/going to be pinched between the block and bellhousing.