Geonovast

Nope. BLHTAZ is correct. That hose seems to be for a non-AC model. Just had the blue one's hood open. Do the Renix ones run under the AC lines? I don't think I have any pics of my 88's engine bay.

BOTH trucks have huge cracks from the right side going towards the centers. I'm just wondering who you guys have used/trust/what you've paid. I do not have full coverage on either one so I gotta pay full price.

The retainer plate should swap just fine. However, since everything's going to be apart, you'd be better off finding everything to keep the external slave setup.

My mom's 95 cutless had a seperate switch for the dimmer/interior lights.

You should probably specifimify in either the post or your sig then.

Without even seeing it, I can guarantee we've all seen worse, and most of us have owned worse. If it's originally from FL, how bad could is possibly be? :nuts:

Just runnin a cat on the blue one, and I think it sounds pretty cool.

Is it always above 80, like it's buried? It'll stay like that if you have the sensor for the light.

I said that was not an important part of the "story" or one that I'm terribly proud to talk about...Lets just say the pully part (not the right term I know) that you loosen to take the serp belt off was being stubborn and I decided a Big ole screwdriver would somehow help the stubborness... it didn't and put a hole in my radiator... No main Fan Shroud or Aux Fan (on the driver side, which is odd cause my 89 has one) to "protect" the radiator. sw2 Point taken. Some advice, however. If the adjuster is being stubborn, best thing you could do is remove the airbox so you can actually get in there, and then tap the adjustment bolt with a hammer. Airbox takes about 2 minutes to pull out. If the bolts are nice.

I'm am confused. How does one jam a screwdriver into the rad when a screwdriver is not a needed tool in the changing of the serpentine belt. Or alternator.

It's burning "too well" and the computer wouldn't know what to do with it.

I'm guess he means dumping fuel/ether into the TB. My guess would be a problem with the fuel pump relay.

7 year old gas.

Nope.

They're completely different. I don't see how you could use a 91+ coil in a Renix.

91+ mounts on the block, by the passenger motor mount.

I know. I had an 88 Cherokee with a 4.0 and an 89 Cherokee with a 4.0.

Both of my Renix 4.0s would do that most of the time, they'd stay at about 2000 rpm for 4-5 seconds. I always thought it was normal.

NOW YOU KNOW

Might not hurt to do a compression test while you're at it.

It's unlikely, but perhaps the timing chain skipped a tooth.

Idea: Pull the accordian hose thing that goes from the jam to the door, you may be able to reach up in there and get ahold of the wires.

Yah, the Linkages, how the heck do I get those off without busting stuff... Squeeze the bottom of the yellowish fastener with some needlenose, then you should be able to push it through. And for your first question, did you remove the old switch? Or was it just not there? I'd imagine for replacing that thing you'd have the wires through that hole alread from when you pulled the old one out, but since that's not the case, I'd think you can get at those wires if you removed the kick panel.

Should be the 5 screws, then the two linkages, one for the lock and one for the handle.

I know. Just saying, it looks similar to an open diff, so it's probably a clutch posi. Unless someone welded it?