Geonovast

You can pull the master cylinder out too, and get everything hooked up with the setup outside the vehicle, and do a bench bleed. That way you know everything works right without the hassle of it being surrounded by 2500 lbs of comanche. I used a clutch line from an 88 4.0 in my 91(91 had that stupid plastic line), which had a soft line connecting the two hardlines, and was able to get that to work. [cliche] The only dumb question is the one that's never asked [/cliche] It makes sense to ask when you're unsure and get it done right, rather than guess and screw up something that could endanger you.

Just picked up a 93 2 door XJ for a buddy, with a fuel delivery problem (99% it's the pump) for $300 2.5/Ax-5/231/D30/8.25 Problem is, when it was parked at the guy's house apparently it got pushed with the e-brake on, and after that it would only roll backwards. I moved the adjuster all the way back and got the wheel to turn, but the drum was pretty bad, and there were grooves etched into the back of the pads. The drum looked awfully familiar. My main question is...are 8.25 drums and the smaller(9inch) D35 drums the same? Or do they just look similar?

they're not all THAT rare...nice ones are, but finding a junker parts one is easy. I've owned something like 12 or 14 comanches, 8 of which survived to be more than parts or scrap. (some were just too bad to mess with) You don't count. You go to the bathroom in the morning and shoot these things out. Which is about what you pay for them too. :nuts: I always thought they were rare, saw one/two of them a year. Until I bought one. And met Pat. Now they're fecking everywhere.

It should, but you may have to run an extender. Usually when you buy a new clutch, you get the PP, clutch, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and the alignment too. I paid $130 for mine. $50 for the slave. I don't know if you can even get the pivot ball and fork new. You have an AX-5 out of a 2002? 2002 what? Last year for the XJ was '01.

So they DID use two different types of connectors for that. Both my trucks have the round connector but the sensor from my 92 4.0 in the shed had that square one.

That's also a sign of a dying battery.

Looks good :cheers: But just so you know...a Cheromanche is something completely different.

Unfortunatly our motors are interference motors, so even if the only immediate damage it did was drop the chain, you'd still have valves hitting pistons.

We had a 91 Grand Voyager. One of the biggest pieces of bantha fodder we'd ever had.

Ohhhhhhhhh one of these.

What is this "minivan" you speak of? :nuts:

I've got a 2.5/5 speed with 3.55 Then again it came with a 4 speed... I'm thinking about dropping in a 5-speed when I replace the clutch in my 2.5L 4-speed. How does the 5th gear work with the 3.55 gears? Can you use 5th gear at all? Does pretty well at 70mph+ with no major hills. I know beaterjeep's running 2.5/5speed/3.55 in his 88 and it hauled pretty good on the highway.

I've got a 2.5/5 speed with 3.55 Then again it came with a 4 speed...

Alright, sounds good. I was thinking the 4.0s and 2.5s used different pump. Maybe I was thinking TBI and MPI? For the bucket test, I'm assuming just setting the bucket next to the truck and use the wiring from the truck?

Found a 93 XJ, 2.5, 5 speed 4wd on CL for a friend for $300. It has a fuel delivery problem, and the guy I talked to is pretty sure it needs a new pump. I have a pump from a 92 4.0 XJ in my shed that worked when pulled. Is it safe to run a 4.0 pump in a 2.5? Is it ok to run a pump that's been sitting open in a garage/shed for 3 years?

I'm ripping apart two D35s with 3.07 gearing and don't need the carriers. You can have one for shipping.

I doubt it. The internal slave and external slave had different pressure plates, from when I did my interanl to external swap on my 2.5 Since you're going to have everything apart anyway, go get youself a new clutch kit. Then you know it's right, and everything will be new, which is going to be to your advantage since you're putting it behind a rebuilt motor.

PB is like a friend in a can.

Sometimes much easier said than done. In my experience, the words "just remove" and "torx" should never be in the same sentence.

Been in a similar situation. My 88 XJ overheated while my mom was in it, and as I'm under the hood with steam billowing everywhere, the sheriff that had gone by me a few minutes prior pulls up behind me with his lights on. He "pulled" me over for no front license plate. He was pretty nice about it and didn't even give me a repair notice, since the plate itself was sitting on the front pass floor.

You need the front fenders, header panel, all the headlight bezel stuff, and the grill. Your hood will be fine.

BETTER. Get the Free 4.2, get a 4.0, and build a 4.5. And kiss the rest of the truck's drivetrain goodbye. :D He's going from a 2.8 so he's gotta get a new tranny anyway... This is just my opinion, but it would be totally worth it.

No but they should mount the same.

BETTER. Get the Free 4.2, get a 4.0, and build a 4.5.

I had no problems when I put the full cluster in my 2.5, threw on the oil sender and temp sender from an 88 4.0 XJ, cluster from a 92 XJ. I just got a cluster for the 4.0 from Boilermaker, and I pulled the senders from a 92 4.0 in the shed. No problem with the oil sender, but the temp sender plugs were different. Truck has the regular single wire round plug, but the sender had a rectangle plug with one wire. Were there wiring differences from 91 to 92, or is this the result of a hackjob?