Geonovast

:headpop: Hughesnet. I've been without internet for a few days, and it might be a few more before I get it again. The other day we had a power outage, then it clicked back on for a few seconds, then back off and it was off for about 6 hours. Apparentely, the modem is "dead". You can log into it, for diagnostics and whatnot, it has a signal strength with a send and receive signals, it can talk to the satellite, it's just decommissioned. Well the lovely provider tells us we need a new modem, that the old one isn't warrantied anymore, and we need to give the $125. I think it's crap. The modem is fine, just needs to be told again that it can connect and give us internet. We're scouting around for another satellite provider, since dialup, DSL, and cable are not available where we're at. Unfortunately the modem was plugged into a power strip and not a surge protector, so we can't get the strip manufacturer to pay for it. They have also had the worst customer service you can imagine. When we initially called them, the idiot on the line had Jo do all this crap on her computer, boot into safe mode, etc., because the service could not be the problem. Well, we're not retarded, we know it's the modem, so they said an actual tech support person would call us within 48 hours. 48 hours? That might have been acceptable tech support in the 80s, but not now. Well, they didn't call, so we called them again, and they started spouting crap about outages, which had started that morning. We'd already been out internet for 2 days. They wouldn't believe that our problem was unrelated, so they again promised to call back, which they of course didn't. We call them back again, demand to talk to a manager, which didn't do any good. They ran us through the books again, finally determining that hey-holy , there's a problem with the modem. But because it isn't warrantied, they need to send us a new one, and we need to pay them for it. We ask when they'll get to it, and they don't know. Yesterday they call us and tell us they'll be out on Wed. We're not pleased. Never, ever, get Hughesnet. Service is expensive, unreliable, slow, and the customer service is the worst I have EVER seen. /rant God I miss Charter.

You might be able to get away with using a can of the Engine Restore stuff. The 4.0 is pretty big for a 6, so get the 8 cylinder formula. But yeah, those numbers are kinda crap. Wouldn't hurt to dump the oil pan, take a good look inside of it, get it cleaned out, get the oil pump strainer cleaned out, and then you can take a look at at least part of the cylinder walls.

Don't bother with the knock sensor unless it's not running right. My first two Renix XJs had them unplugged and ran fine.

Yeah, happened 200 miles from home too. Luckily when I travel that far I carry a fair amount of tools with me. So a bit of trivia is the nut for the steering stabilizer into the draglink is the same size and thread for the TB. Popped that onto the Trackbar and limped it the next exit which was about 1/8 of a mile away and had a huge hardware store right off the exit. They didn't have castle nuts, but I got two regular ones and double nuted the TB, and it's still like that.

You guys better save a ton of that snow for me when I come back in Nov.

:wall:

Jumping the two wires on the resistor is a way to test for a bad resistor. But if it does the same thing with the wires jumped, then your resistor is fine.

If your CPS was bad, you would not get spark.

Renix ones have the rubber "flange" on the bottom with the three holes and the metal piece above it. HO ones are just round at the end with the plastic clamp. Looks like a clamp to me.

It'll run just fine, they did away with the stupid thing in 91 anyway. As for emissions, depends on your state/county.

The box itself should work just fine, but the hose going to the throttle body looks like a HO one to me.

Even if it was in decent shape with that low of mileage, I wouldn't go higher than $600. It's still an 86 that's been sitting for 5 years. Did you verify that's it's a 2.hate? Cause if it is... it'll need the carb rebuilt I'm sure.

:agree:

Eliminate the EGR. Plug both holes, and disconnect the relay for the solenoid.

There isn't adjustment on the alternator. The only adjustment on the serp is the PS pump. Are you sure you have the routing correctly? edit : my bad

If you have the pilot bushing that came out of the motor, and the one for the 96 trans, why not take both bushigs into the parts store and have them get you the right part?

I thought I'd experienced DW in my first Cherokees until the trackbar on my 2.5 MJ decided to fall out of the frame bracket at 70 mph. That was not fun.

It doesn't sound like a CPS issue. If the CPS was dead, it wouldn't start. You can check it, get a multimeter that can check ohms(resistance). Check the resistance between the two terminals on the plug. It should (IIRC) read between 125-275 ohms. That was the check I did on my Renix, I'm not sure if the numbers are the same for a HO or not. You mentioned it's got a 91 motor in an 88 or 89... was all the wiring switched over? Or is the Renix system running the HO motor?

You said it was adjustable... I'm assuming you've got it adjusted to its shortest length? It might cause some problems, but I don't think it'd cause DW unless it put the axle so far to the side that you could visibly see it just by looking at the truck.

XJ questions are allowed if the symptoms and fix would be the same if it were an MJ right? :dunce:

If your tires are really that bad, and nothing else looks visibly shot, that's where I would start. How are they worn? Is it much worse on the outside of the tire than the inside? That would indicated a bad toe in, which is what would happen if someone did a lift and didn't do a toe alignment. I speak from experience. I now know better.

Don't forget the possibility of a blown headgasket. It is possible for it to blow out between the coolant valley and the end of the block, so it won't get into the cylinders or oil and affect how the motor runs. If it ends up not being the freeze plug, at least head gaskets aren't that bad to do.

No, that's an 8.25

So it starts up, runs for a second, then dies? Sounds to me like your ballast resistor is shot. They didn't have any security systems that I know of.