Geonovast

If it's the 4 cylinder then, and a manual, it will either have the AX-5 5 speed or AX-4 4 speed. You cannot tell the difference between these just by looking, as the AX-4 is identical to the AX-5, except the 5th gear is missing. The AX-4/5 CANNOT go behind a 4.0 6 cylinder.

That black hose isn't a hose... it's your speedometer cable. No fluid in it. When you drop your transmission, it's much easier just to unscrew the cable from the sender instead of removing it. Generally that T fitting it up on top of the tank, with a hose going to each of the two breathers on top of the tank.

Don't bother fixing your transmission. You have the BA 10/5, which is junk to begin with. You'll need a 4wd transmission anyway for the 4wd swap, so don't dump any money into the one you have now beyond maybe changing the oil. Also, if you can, don't get a 4wd BA 10/5. Get yourself an AX-15. :thumbsup:

Welcome :cheers: You running 4wd in that thing?

Is this a 4cylinder?

You should be able to tell just by looking at it. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=11699

No. BA 10/5 and AX-15 are both manual 5 speeds. BA 10/5 is a crappy Peugot transmission used behind the 4.0 from 87-mid 89 AX-15 is a much stronger transmission used behind the 4.0 from mid 89-99. AW-4 is the auto used behind the 4.0 AX-15 and AW-4 are both made by Aisin-Warner Left : AX-15 Right : BA 10/5 AW-4

Just wanna go pop this guy http://madison.craigslist.org/pts/1437035761.html

I can't help you much with the wiring, however, a gauge cluster with a tach will be a direct bolt in as it sits right now. You'll have to adjust the poteniometer on the back, but it's already wired for the tach. You should be able to find a 4.10 Dana 30 under a 4cylinder with a 5 speed, or some autos. If it's got a 4 speed, it should be 3.55, so verify ratio before you buy it. No, dash doesn't have to come apart to swap in the tilt column... but you will have to remove it to change over the wiring.

I see you Pete. I see you.

:smart:

IIRC another main leaf with the eyes cut off ought to take care of what you need. You'll gain whatever arch it adds, plus the actual thickness of the leaf.

Until recently I would have sworn all Eliminators were shortbeds. Then I saw a longbed one. You never know, somebody at some point may have swapped the MT springs and D44 into a shortbed.

If you're putting the 4.0 into the 4cylinder, you'll need more than just the ECU. You'll need to move over ALL the wiring, engine bay and under the dash. You'll still need a new driveshaft. AX-15s can be found both internal and external slaves. 89-~93 will be internal, anything after should be external. The sender in the tank is the same for a lwb tank and a swb tank. You'll need the 6 cylinder pump. You can either move over just the pump, or the whole sender if you want. Senders should be identical. I DO, however, recommend finding a 4.10 Dana 30, and keeping the 4.10 rear. Granted, the 4.0/auto combo can do just fine with 3.55, you'll get much more pep with the 4.10 and be all set if you go for bigger tires in the future. That is, if your 2.5/5 speed has the 4.10 like it's suppose to. It might have 3.55 or 3.73

If you remove the front driveshaft, you can get right to it with a standard 11mm box wrench.

I've got a 91 2.5, which is MPFI. Until it started running funny, it did pretty ok on the 3.55 gears, it was pushing about 23 mpg. Now it's getting about 16 and runs like crap, still don't know why. But as they said, a Renix Era 4.0 can get that or better mileage. Up until my recent motor swap(and it might back to this after I get the oil leaks fixed), my 88 XJ was getting 26 mpg.

Personally, I would find a different donor. 1. Your trans will not work. Not only will you need to find an ECU, but the TCU and 6 cylinder AW-4 will not cooperate with the 4 cylinder ECU. You'll need the 4 cylinder flexplate, torque converter, and bellhousing. Plus, while both the 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder use an AW-4, they're set up differently and you won't like the 6 cylinder setup behind the 4 popper. 2. You won't have a stick anymore! :fs1: 3. Your 4 cylinder 5 speed should have a 4.10 geared rear axle. The 6 cylinder auto will have 3.55 geared axles. In order for you to get it to work, you'd have to move the rear axle over to the 4 cylinder, and believe me,(check my signature), the last thing you want for that 4 cylinder is 3.55 gearing. 4. It'll be easier to just have your 2wd shaft cut down. I did mine for my 4wd swap in my 2.5 for about $100, which was a cut, balance, and new U-joints. 5. The front driveshaft from the donor will be at least 4 inches too long. You will be much, much better off going out and finding a 4 cylinder, 5 speed 4wd XJ that's rusted to hell to use as a donor. edit: thought of more stuff. You'll need a 4 cylinder automatic radiator. You'll want to find a floor shift kit(if the eliminator doesn't have one. I don't know if the 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder ones are the same or not. You'll need different T-case linkages. The T-case in a 6cylinder sits much farther back. Yes, the front suspension for a 2wd beam and Dana 30 are identical. As for the D35 C clip issue... no, they are not all C clips. in 91 it went to a C clip version. However, the 'c' in D35c does not denote C-clip.

Cable driven shouldn't be too much of a concern... all that stuff's swappable. Although the 207 did use a different style speedo holder than the 231, your cable should thread onto any sender in a 231.

Your 207 will be a 21 spline. What transmission did the 231 come off of? If it came off of an AW4 or BA 10/5, you may find input length problems.

You might wanna take a closer look how the top of the front shock mounts to the body :thumbsup:

If you like a stick better, go find yourself a 4wd AX-15 and ditch the AW-4.

Did you go with an auto just cause it was a 4wd?

I kinda want to go out and try it, just to see, if in fact, it would be better. Something tells me it would be.

Dreamt about them, cause they're so far away.

Put the 5 speed back in :thumbsup: