Geonovast

When mine got BAD, I was losing a quart about every 40-50 miles.

Helluva deal, I couldn't turn that down.

Nice writeup :cheers: I'm going to have to do this to at least the XJ, if not the MJs too. XJ makes a very annoying clicking sound when it's on high.

I mentioned that to him in chat, and he's got a cone filter. I don't think a cone filter would show blowby.

Stop reminding me I don't have money :fs1: That XJ would be good if I had the cash to at least go look at. Although for the next one, I was hoping for a 97-99 that had nothing wrong with it. Last thing I need is another Jeep that needs work, I already have 3. I'd also, of course, be interested in the MJ if I had the money. Do you ever get into Camdenton? I've counted 4 MJs so far between here and being town and I don't think any of the are club members, and OF COURSE, I still haven't put on my CC window stickers on the XJ, and OF COURSE, I left them in WI.

If you're pulling the transmission with the motor, you don't need to worry about pulling the CPS first. Why's the motor coming out?

http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/index.php A stroker isn't something you should do halfway right. I agree with Eagle, no such thing as a budget stroker. If you're gonna do it, do it right. That way, you won't have to do it again a couple thousand miles down the road.

Are you using a chain or a load leveler? Usually I bolt my load leveler to it. On the drivers side I use the forwardmost top manifold bolt, and rearmost top manifold bolt, then on the passenger side I use one of the AC bracket bolts, and then in the back really the only spot is the grounding stud. Remove your CPS before you pull it out so you don't accidentally break it! I know these aren't the best but it's all I got

All the MJ stuff is, is a set of perches. You should be able to get a set from the dealer for ~$20 IIRC. The perches themselves are the same for the XJ and the MJ, just the location is different.

All XJ axles are gonna be the same amount of work, which is just cutting the XJ stuff off and welding the MJ stuff on. Obviously an MJ axle will be easiest, unless you're going SOA, then it's the same process as doing an XJ axle. I understand certain Ford 8.8s will work without much hassle, but you need to run spacers. Pete will have to correct me on that though.

OK, but just remember ................. you ask for it!!! I hope tha rest of yall fully understand what Pete just got you into. I've got a long list of un-answered question. :doh: (if I could just remember where I put it) :???: If we didn't like answering questions, we wouldn't be here. :thumbsup:

Libby axles are the same width? Hm.. for some reason I was thinking they were narrower, but dunno why. You'll have to hack all the 4 link stuff off the KJ axle, but that's not that big of a deal.

How much lower? Would it be enough to counteract the thickness of the extra leaf and do what he wants?

You can grab one out of a 97-01 XJ. Putting that in would be no more work than putting an XJ 44.

XJ shackles should drop the back about an inch.

29 spline Chryco 8.25 is a pretty strong axle(near D44), and will probably be much, much easier to find.

And if it's really bad, it'll smoke everywhere, coat the entire underside of the truck, rear bumper, and tailgate.

I've got one of these... somewhere. :brows:

From one of his 11 posts.

shouldn't this be kept between him and the faculty though?

Pretty much the minute I bought my XJ I switched it to power, and it hasn't been touched since. Was gettin 26 mpg.

Pretty funny that when I first saw this, he was logged in... :nuts:

Putting an XJ axle SOA on an MJ without moving the perches would cause the leafs to bend outward, and at some point something would self destruct.

:wall:

Pre- HO is Renix. Any 4.0 from 87-90 will be a direct replacement. 91+ you start running into problems.