Geonovast

Been missing mine.. But I get to see them tomorrow!

Well, you said get them from the stealership. And Chrysler's gotta be pretty desperate for money right now. So my bet would be $15. each.

I'll still be wanting to start on Saturday. Logically, this should only take one day... but. You've all worked on these before. Sunday at 4 is Jadzia's baptism, so I have to be all clean for that... hopefully all will be done by then. :yes:

:nuts: I ran down to the hardware store and got some real bolts the same thread and length. IMO, two of the best dollars I ever spent. Torx

I used Fiiiiiiiiiiiire :brows: I know the feeling. Destroyed a few tools getting mine out. Finally crawled underneath and got the nuts glowing, then was able to work them out.

The 4.2 is a previous version of the 4.0. It's the same block. It used a longer stroke crank, and a much smaller bore. The 4.2(258cui) crankshaft is what you use to stroke a 4.0 to 4.5, and depending on how much you bore it out, you can possibly get all the way up to 5.0, but it's not a good idea. 4.6L-4.7L is a good size.

I'm curious as to why you don't want your axle spinning? The axle always spins. The outer shafts are directly connected to the wheels, and the inner shaft spins just as fast, except in the opposite direction. All the CAD does is prevent the front driveshaft from spinning. Jeep had completely done away with it by 93.

I think it would make more sense to make a CL forum section instead of just an individual thread. Kinda set up the like adventure forum, but only one sub-forum at that top for CL posts. People might be more inclined to look/post in there than in the giant thread.

Why is all the vacuum stuff hooked up if you locked it over? Also, what are you basing it not working on?

Don't get confused between the CTS and Knock sensor. The CTS will have a pigtail with a plug for the harness to plug into. IIRC it has two round prongs on the plug. The knock sensor doesn't have wires coming off of it, and the plug for it looks like an injector plug. I believe the CTS is in front.

Those might be it. I don't remember if the block was upside down on the stand or not when I was looking at them.

Yup. I believe it's on the passenger side, about 2/3 the way back, just under the head.

Actually, if there's an auxilary fan, there's 3. The one on the back of the head controls the gauge/light. Different senders for the gauge than the light. The one on the bottom of the block is for the ECU. The computer needs to know how hot the motor is so it can go from cold-running mode to warm-running mode. The Renix systems have preset values for timing and air/fuel mixture in cold running mode, then listens to the sensors when it's warmed up. If you have an electric auxiliary fan, there's a third sensor in the driver's side of the radiator. At least the 4.0s do, not sure about the 2.5.

Resurfacing gets rid of the taper. IIRC new replacements are not that expensive.

The Jeep flywheels have a slight taper to them. Getting them resurfaced will cause the clutch to not engage quite right. Not a good idea to resurface your flywheel. You'll need a new one.

:agree:

I think Rob just got one you could use. It's even the same year! :rotf:

Whatever keeps the shift collar for the reduction unit in 1:1 is probably slipping out. This would put the reduction unit in neutral. I've never personally had a T-case apart, but I'll probably bring my toasted 207(stuck in 2wd) back down to MO with me after thanksgiving to tinker with since I usually have nothing else to do down here.

It's not exactly a good idea to shift in or out of 4 lo while moving. At all.

Well that covers one of them. Which motor do you have? 2.8 or 2.5 Which transmission do you have? Manual or Automatic Which transfercase? 207 or 228/229 Which rear axle? Most likely a Dana 35, but if yours is the metric tonne, you'll have an AMC 20

I'll fix it. A 231 with the same length and spline count input of whatever your 207 is will bolt right in, but still considering driveshaft, flange, and linkage issues.

I thought all TF904s were 23 spline? Or am I thinking that all NP 228/229s are?

A short shaft 23 spline 231 should go right in, but you may run into a rear driveshaft issue. When I went 4wd (86 AX-5 with a 207) in my 2.5, I had the shaft cut about 1/2" too short, so the yoke didn't go in quite as far as I wanted, but good enough to drive. I've since put in a 93 AX-5 and 231, and the yoke is right where it should be. Also, I believe in 86 the front driveshaft had a flat flange with a CV joint. You'll need to put that yoke on the 231, or get a different front shaft.

VIROQUA, Wis. - A testosterone-charged buck in western Wisconsin locked horns with a formidable opponent this rutting season -- and lost. The 7-point buck died after ramming a 640-pound concrete statue of an elk in the backyard of a rural Viroqua Bucks often tangle to defend breeding territories during the rut. Mark Brye says his concrete elk lawn statue weighs about three times more than the buck. Brye says the deer shattered its skull after head-butting the statue because its antlers were dangling. Brye says he might remove the antlers from the real deer and glue them on the elk statue as a remembrance of the strange fight. No need to buy guns, ammo, and go sit out in the cold for hours on end. Just plant a statue in your backyard and wait. :rotf: