Alexia

What about the rust on the rear cab brace, front spring mount, steering box mounting area, and track bar mounting area?

*Starts to drool on keyboard.* Still want one even if I have an aftermarket bumper now.

I would take a 1996+ transfer case over the old design any day. The tail shaft oil seal and bushing in the older transfer cases will not stop any vibrations that can be felt in the cab. If there is enough vibration to be felt there is a problem with the drive shaft or a worn output bearing.

Spun bearing? I am not sure what that is... But I can see the oil filter getting clogged faster if the engine is very dirty inside. 10 min before an oil change does not give it much time to work, most everyone I have seen use sea foam usually say at least 200 miles. I think it says there is not a problem running it full time in the oil on the can. I will buy one on my way home tonight and read over it. I remember someone on another jeep forum saying its ok to use between oil changes from the start, the only issue is the crud it gets loose and into the oil filter. Spinning a bearing means there was poor lubrication and the bearing friction welded to the crankshaft causing it to spin in the bore. If the oil is diluted enough it is certainly possible for this to happen. That along with the oil filter no longer able to pass oil due to being clogged. Basically, if Seafoam is used in the oil it has to be checked every single drive for the condition of the oil. A heavily sludge engine may very quickly cause an oil starvation condition. Seafoam contains Pale Oil, Naphtha, and Isopropyl Alcohol. http://hildstrom.com/projects/seafoam/

You will have to straighten out the front portion of the inner fender some. It took me about two hours of pounding with a dead blow mallet and measuring to fix damage like that before.

96 was an odd year. Early 96 models have OBD II piggybacked on the old OBD I harness. It is a kludge, and the worst splice job I have seen come out of the factory. Later 1996 models use the 1997 harness. I found this out when I swapped out Sparkles (early 1996) 2wd AW4 for a late 1996 4wd AW4 out of a parts Cherokee I had acquired. I swapped in the new transmission complete with bellhousing and CPS. Then I found out the CPS used a different plug than what my harness had. Ended up using 7 extensions and two universal joints to swap it without having to drop the tansmission again. My first Jeep was a 1996 XJ which is why I had such a varied initial experience with them. I could only get a replacement CPS from the dealership since it used a 1997 connector on a 1996 harness.

"Require a prefix to be chosen in some forums." Yep, they would be forced to choose a prefix which we would predefine all the state and country abbreviations.

Jim, you can still get under vehicles and work on them. You can even use the internet better than most older generations. Fairly sure you are doing just fine!

Topic tag prefixes can be done like so: http://community.invisionpower.com/files/file/3324-advanced-tags-prefixes/

I am wandering if that is the idle issue I am having. I get random unexplainable idle stumbling after a hot soak and I do have a cheap aftermarket CPS. As for acceleration, what acceleration? The rear tires just spin endlessly! Once I get a tool box and the spare tire back there it should get better.

See #1: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f140/cruisers-mostly-renix-tips-1304879/ MJs are certainly less complex and technically challenged.

Typically the interior wiring is what will be the biggest headache. Anything under the hood is generally sane, but poor grounding is typically the number one cause of weird issues.

Looks like a typical aftermarket fiberglass hood scoop. Actually, it looks like this one. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/95002/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710637553&catargetid=1784155634&cadevice=c&&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CJW05cXz5LkCFQ5nOgodNmMABw

Pretty much anything pre-1997. The issue I describe occurred on a 1996. Still lots of AMC design wiring in there, but with Chrysler changes.

I rather burn a MJ to the ground than have to work on anything electrical related on them. That includes the early generation XJ models as well. Did you know the ignition interlock solenoid can short out which grounds through the brake light switch which then blows the fuses for the instrument cluster, instrument cluster lights, and tail lights. But wait! Why does it blow the fuses for the lights? Because the ground path for the oil pressure gauge goes to the ignition interlock solenoid which immediately fries then causes issues for the instrument panel lights. I spent nearly sixteen hours diagnosing that damn issue. Why? Because the ignition interlock solenoid IS NOT LISTED ANYWHERE ON THE DIAGRAMS! AMC era wiring is not amazing by any standards. *Grumbles*

A brown or burgundy color. My mother would love to have a Grand Wagoneer in burgundy. As for the Cherokee and Comanche I never liked the wood trim on the Cherokee. It always seemed like an apology; "Sorry we had to discontinue the Grand Wagoneer, but we slapped some wood trim on a Cherokee!"

Primer everywhere! Not sanded yet. Failed primer on the hood due to poor air flow at the gun. It needs sanded and redone.

Where is it for sale or is this your MJ?

Have you tried the usual deformation tap? Hit the outside of the knuckle with a sledgehammer. This causes the seat taper to deform temporarily and pop the ball joint out. Could also use a ball joint separator and a sledgehammer. http://www.harborfreight.com/11-3-4-quarter-inch-ball-joint-separator-1740.html

http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/4072419299.html Turbo Diesel, 4WD, Two Door - That is one hell of a rare combination.

I am delaying a week to start spraying, but everything is taped off. I am having an air delivery issue at the spray gun and a new pressure regulator is on the way. The primer on the hood came out splotchy from poor atomization. Ah I'm sorry to hear that. I'm glad youre getting it fixed! It'd be a shame to have all of that great work done and then have an eh paint job Yep, the hood was the test essentially. I put a small air water separate on the bottom of the gun. However, it seems the separator significantly drops the pressure. I have a large regulator at the tank, but this separator is making it difficult to judge by how much. I am going to get around it by setting the tank regulator at 100 PSI, through the hose, water separator, and then into a small regulator set to 29 PSI at the gun. The should fix the drop I am seeing and allow the separator to work properly.

I am delaying a week to start spraying, but everything is taped off. I am having an air delivery issue at the spray gun and a new pressure regulator is on the way. The primer on the hood came out splotchy from poor atomization.

Excessive oil pressure may indicate a problem. In order of the typical issues: Clean the connector and contacts for the oil pressure sensor. Bad oil pressure sensor. Verify with a mechanical gauge if possible. Stuck oil pressure relief valve in the oil pump. Apparently a common issue on the 2.5L especially if it was not removed and cleaned during the rebuild. Broken piston ring allowing compression to pressurize the crank case. Though there would likely be more obvious issues.

So did you end up selling this or are you still working on it?

None of these were dents. Just small pieces of surface rust that needed ground and then leveled. I am being incredibly picky for a matte finish.