Alexia

The only 1997+ XJ to come into the local junk yard in the past three months had the header panel removed by lunch time the same day it arrived. I even asked special permission from my manager to make a slightly extended lunch run. Yep, it was gone that fast.

YES! This single thread has restored half my sanity trying to install this shifter. All I need to do now is the drilling the transfer case lever so that the shifter throw is not this ridiculous new length now.

Actually, I did attach half the nuts on my LJ's transfer case through the shifter opening.

They really are. No flat surface, no easy way to strap, and heavily weighted on one side. I just had a newly remanufactured NP242 fall off my jack straight into the concrete. No cracks in the casing. I was upset, grabbed the entire thing and just bench pressed it into place. Which surprisingly worked easier than expected. Except my arms are rubber now, whoops.

So I have to look for another AX-15 MJ/XJ to scrounge at least the linkage & front driveshaft from. Bummer. Any chance the BA 10/5 Transfer case linkage would work? There is enough adjustment in the linkages that it may work. I used the NP231 shifter linkage on my LJ with the NP242 I installed and made a very minor adjustment. You could always buy Novak's cable shifter and not have to worry about it.

Looks like a Trifecta cover based on the logo. The new rims look great!

MOPAR 52099212 - 1997 Parts catalog says it was used behind the AW4 and AX15 with the 4.0L engine. So assuming there is not some internal difference with earlier AX15 transmissions then it could worth a shot mating a medium input transfer case.

Any 1992 to 2006 NP231/NV231 from a XJ, ZJ, or TJ with the correct length input gear will work. Novak shows that the AX15 needs a short input gear on the transfer case. That is what makes an easy swap for a 231 annoying because medium input gears are much more common and heavily used on the automatic transmissions. So if you can not find a transfer case that is an easy direct swap there is always the option of breaking the case open and swapping input gears.

When the hook breaks holding up the freshly painted bed...

That is a TJ. O_o

I spent a month working on this one flare. The LJ was begging me to worked on.

Yep, right in that range. I can lift a corner up to slid carts under with a little difficultly. Four people makes it easy and less awkward.

Cup holders! I would love to see a pair of Corbeau or Bestop seats in a Comanche before I decide to buy a pair to try.

Assuming the spring perch mounts are used, swapping the sides they are on, it changes the length about 0.5" to 1". Not enough to warrant an immediate replacement.

If makes sense to use hub centric spacers when the rim is hub centric. The rim was designed to be supported in that fashion and ideally should be used with hub centric spacers. I really can not think of an alloy Jeep factory rim in the past twenty years that is not hub centric. Spidertrax spacers and adapters are expensive because they are made in the USA under strict quality control with a life time warranty. Those bare aluminum non-hub centric spacers are typically the same cheap Chinese spacers that every online store resells. Wheels staying on the vehicle are too important to me to risk it on the cheapest wheel spacer available. I just went downstairs to check that both the factory wheels on my LJ and MJ are hub centric. Which are Ravine rims and 2013+ JK Rubicon rims.

Advance Auto Parts is always giving at least 10% off or discount upon certain conditions coupons.

All of them are available here: http://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com TRT41 bought me a top of the line battery for $60.

I buy from Rock Auto when I need to buy lots of parts at once and try to ship all from the same warehouse. However, I can get brake rotors shipped two day through Amazon Prime usually for the same price as Rock Auto.

http://www.lazerdesigns.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT Flashlights -> Choose your Maglite type. Then provide all the design work for check out.

The only part the requires the 1997+ electronics is the gauge cluster. The rest of it is powered by the junction block electronics on the right foot well. It would take days of rewiring just to make work though.

Steering Pump - Usually hard to steer or notchy. Mine was that the front bearing blew up and took a bunch of stuff with it. Steering Box - The gears wear out and there is a noticeable dead spot switching from left to right.

It is not a winner or a contest. It is a display of projects that the forum staff feel are notable to dedicate a small show case on. Anything from the crazy beat up off road rigs to the shiny road queens.

I never noticed that in the WK I had what year was your JK? Sadly my charger does not have the EVIC Display. If i had thought about it i could have asked the dealership to change that if possiable on LX platform. I just had work done to it today. 2012, it was part of the interior and electronics upgrade done in 2011.

The NP242 has the same torque rating while in Part-Time 4WD, locked, like the NP231. The Full-Time 4WD, open, mode has roughly 20% to 30% less torque handling depending on the model year. I have the NP242 in my heavy LJ with 35" tires and it has yet to break while slamming the gas down in Full-Time 4WD.