New Paint?

I see a lot of you guys have gotten your truck repainted. I'd like to do mine at some point and get it lookin' good again.

Naturally, I have questions:

1. Where'd you take it?

2. How much did it cost?

3. What did the price include?

Of course, I'd want something good that is going to last but not have it look like butt.

My paint job was done for $500.00 Can

We used , 2 pinte of primer & one gallon of Urethane Red (Dupont) .

The preparation is the secret.

:smart:

Mine was $6,000. It included removing the bed, replacing fenders, rockers, cab corners, stickers, windshield. About everything you can imagine. Pictures are in my signature.

I am considering repainting my tahoe. It requires minimal body work. That was going to be around $4,000

Mine was $6,000. It included removing the bed, replacing fenders, rockers, cab corners, stickers, windshield. About everything you can imagine. Pictures are in my signature.

 

I am considering repainting my tahoe. It requires minimal body work. That was going to be around $4,000

:eek: $$$$ Pick up some rattle cans :brows:

Whoa. $6,000 is like 1/5 of my salary.

I was going to do that Maaco premiere paint job, just after the holidays when they offer it for half price. So it should have been like $600 right... NOT try 3500!!! WTF?!?!

SO, I looked into rattle can paint jobs... this is what I did. I think it came out really well. Done get me wrong, its not perfect and I have made some mistakes. But over all for about 15-20 cans of paint and a couple days work. I like how it came out!!

CW

My last paint job cost me about $50. Assuming my time is worth nothing (I was a student at the time). Not including buying a compressor (wanted one anyways) and a paint gun (again, wanted) or my RO sander (it was free with the compressor actually). I didn't screw around too much with it and did it in about a week. Came out terrible, but looked good from 10 feet, since I suck with a paint gun. Mostly it was a learning experience, which is what I needed.

I used 'tremclad' which is the same as rustoleum. About $10 for a 1.5 quarts.

My next paint job I'll probably use Super-K (it's actually called super-kloroplorboroflorn or something crazy, works well but terrible for you) as a primer, and whatever leftover U-tech paint we have at work. Sometimes we have good colours, often not. Currently I'd have the choice of dirty yellow or an off colour grey that was a mixing mistake.

I was going to do that Maaco premiere paint job, just after the holidays when they offer it for half price. So it should have been like $600 right... NOT try 3500!!! WTF?!?!

 

SO, I looked into rattle can paint jobs... this is what I did. I think it came out really well. Done get me wrong, its not perfect and I have made some mistakes. But over all for about 15-20 cans of paint and a couple days work. I like how it came out!!

 

CW

i was gonna do the maaco paint job too. there advertised prices arent accurate.

i did all the body work myself and found a guy who paints out of his garage that did a base coat/clear coat job for $1000

I am a professional automotive painter, and being a jeep guy, I grit my teeth a lot at what people call a paintjob on the jeep sites. Needless to say, you get what you pay for. I do $50,000 restorations on 1/4 million dollar cars, and I do $2000 dollar weekend bang it out the door jobs. My point being, that you have to figure out exactly what your expectations are, vs your budget, and find the happy medium. A little tip, If it's single stage, It's gonna look like crap. If it doesn't look like crap today, It will in a few months when it starts oxydizing. (Single stage doesn't hold up to the elements nearly as well as basecoat/clearcoat paintjobs.) If anyone needs any DIY body and paint advice, I'm happy to help. Drop me a PM, and I'll get to ya when I can.

I am a professional automotive painter, and being a jeep guy, I grit my teeth a lot at what people call a paintjob on the jeep sites. Needless to say, you get what you pay for. I do $50,000 restorations on 1/4 million dollar cars, and I do $2000 dollar weekend bang it out the door jobs. My point being, that you have to figure out exactly what your expectations are, vs your budget, and find the happy medium. A little tip, If it's single stage, It's gonna look like crap. If it doesn't look like crap today, It will in a few months when it starts oxydizing. (Single stage doesn't hold up to the elements nearly as well as basecoat/clearcoat paintjobs.) If anyone needs any DIY body and paint advice, I'm happy to help. Drop me a PM, and I'll get to ya when I can.

Wow, you must make a crap-ton of $$$. I don't suppose you live anywhere in the southeast?

I payed $2000 on the paint job on my 86 back in 2004/2005 (that winter).

the deal was a base/clear eggshell white, and proper rust replacement.

I cut out all of the new body parts for it (it needed a new pass. side inner wheel well, and a new pass. side bedside flare area....just where the flare mounted, as the rust didn't spread above it at all).

we did all the panel replacement on it.

we did all of the rust removal on it.

we even removed the gas tank and loosened the bed, and removed all of the door handles, windshield trim, cab vents, etc.

they were supposed to remove the rear window and paint inside the frame.

what I got:

one step hardnose paint job, fiberglass/bondo EVERYWHERE, no rear window removal, and bed was never removed.

1 year later I got:

ROTTED cab corners. the interior was gutted when they were working on it, and they threw their sandpaper and scraps inside the cab corners. I was 17 at the time and this was my first street vehicle build with my dad, and didn't think to check before I reassembled it. I KNOW it's their crap because the sandpaper sanding block that was left in one of them had their logo on it. all this crap in the cab corners clogged up the drain holes, causing the cab corners to fill with water (presumably from the cab vents) and rot out.

end result:

I will NEVER pay for a paint job again. I bought/traded for all the tools I'd need, and when I redo the truck this time, it will be a proper paint job.

BTW 1 year for $2000 was not worth it. it's been 4 years since the paint job and I'm just now repainting it. but then, it did also get hit in the bed so it is necessary more than ever.

you get what you pay for. $2000 is dirt cheap when it comes to a paint job where they do the prep work (sanding etc.). if you do the prep and then just pay for paint, you won't get any guarantee on the paint. but then again, if it turns out bad then it's yourself to blame for bad prep work most of the time.

be wary of where you take it to get painted. ask for references when you do go in for an initial assessment on the cost.

I am a professional automotive painter, and being a jeep guy, I grit my teeth a lot at what people call a paintjob on the jeep sites. Needless to say, you get what you pay for. I do $50,000 restorations on 1/4 million dollar cars, and I do $2000 dollar weekend bang it out the door jobs. My point being, that you have to figure out exactly what your expectations are, vs your budget, and find the happy medium. A little tip, If it's single stage, It's gonna look like crap. If it doesn't look like crap today, It will in a few months when it starts oxydizing. (Single stage doesn't hold up to the elements nearly as well as basecoat/clearcoat paintjobs.) If anyone needs any DIY body and paint advice, I'm happy to help. Drop me a PM, and I'll get to ya when I can.

I don't ever build anything that is truly permanent. There is NO point in wasting a ton of time and money on the paint. It will be destroyed at some point either by my hand or my driving.

Besides, I follow the simple rule: if it's good enough to go on a 2.5 million dollar helicopter, it's good enough for my truck. :rotf:

I am trying to more or less restore my truck as my DD. I want a HIGH QUALITY paint job.

My truck has entered the painting process. I anticipate it to be around 3k when done. The bed is at the shop now. I speculate it is about done. I will be getting 98 XJ Clip and doors painted when it comes time to do the rest of the truck. New cab corners will be welded in as will new rockers.

I am getting it painted by a local guy who has been around for many years. He painted my fathers 66 chevy show truck back in the day and has done other work for us. With that said, I would never go to a 'chain' paint shop. Stay local and ask around about quality.

I would never go to a 'chain' paint shop. Stay local and ask around about quality.

Amen to that!

I wasn't trying to be a paint nazi by any means. I know paint work (done propperly), is very expensive. That's why I do it!

I don't make a buttload of money, unfortunately. When I do a 50k resto, that includes parts, materials, and all labor. (including stuff I have to have out sourced.) I was just making the point that you get what you pay for.

And to the guy who paid 2000 bucks for a 1 year paintjob, sorry. Shops like that make the rest of us look bad.

Rattle cans. As said prep is key. My current truck has a Maaco paint job on it atm though and it looks like hell. Then entire bottom 3/4 of the truck is orange peeled. So when I do it next it will be rattle can, also makes for easy touch ups. :thumbsup: Either that or I will go the Hardnose route with Por-15 under it so it is chip proof and whatnot.

~Alex

i picked up a gallon of od green for a hundred dollars and painted it my self for free

just take your time it will look good in the long run

i picked up a gallon of od green for a hundred dollars and painted it my self for free

 

just take your time it will look good in the long run

Is it auto paint or something else? I'm not adverse to painting it myself, I just want it to last.

I'm planning on some of the Valspar truck and trailer paint from Tractor supply. Ive heard of people using this with good results. They sell hardener for it there too. Actually they have 3 levels of paint they sell... 1 is tractor paint, 2 is truck and trailer paint, 3 is called restoration paint and supposedly the highest quality, but it is special order, at least in my local store. I plan on buying a spray gun to do the job, and either wiring up my 60 gal compressor, or going to someone elses house to paint it. I need to sell my bug first before I can start that project though. The biggest issue I see with the tractor supply Valspar paint is they only have a limited number of premixed colors.... basic tractor colors mostly, White, black, red, green, orange...etc. Good luck with your paint job!

yea i will have to look at the can but yea if you do it your self get a very large air compressor because little ones SUCKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK the air pressure should stay the same with the little compressor it veries all the time it is sooooooo annoyinggg :oops: and with od green it is a primmer so there is no need to do a clear coat sense it is a flat color and the paint is so hard to scratch :clapping: for when in the woods

I like to be different and went with Zolatone. Kinda hard to describe what it is, but it's sorta a cross between a paint and a bedliner and diamonds. :D I traded an axle for it, but I think it's a bit over $100 per gallon (I used a bit under 2 not including the mess I made on the floor). Use a pressurized sprayer. Preferably with disposable parts, as I don't know what dissolves it. :dunno:

I got my old eliminator painted at maaco for $1900. :fool: (Now owned by girsmj86). They did a HORRID JOB. Drips everywhere, hair, overspray, old color under the bumpers, black drip in the interior door handle, even put the badges back in the wrong spot. Would have rattle-canned it desert camo if re-lived. I was 17, had too much money from summer overtime, and short attention span. :nuts: I even took the time to paint the jambs myself before handing it over, then they over sprayed the crap* out of what I did. :fs1:

Alex, that orange-peel on the bottom-half of the truck (below the lowest body line) is actually "supposed to be" a rubber like underspray installed my maaco to deter rock chips leading to rust. The orange peel on the rest of the truck is, well, just a poor paint job. Have you spotted the kitty-little sized rock dead center of the hood in front of the driver? Horrible.

Looked good at 20ft, I guess that was a small victory. :dunno:

Rob L.

* Wasn't aware the 4 letter word for "human excrement" got auto corrected to poo, even with a ! in place of the i. Took me a min or two to realize this. Changed in any case, to crap. Learning something new everyday. ;) I like it. :yes: :thumbsup:

idk, I thought alex's MJ looked good when I saw him the other day.

but...it was 2am on a dark street :P

BTW automan, alex and I are workin on gettin parts together for a proper restore on her.

we got my son a 98 XJ for his 16th BDay. It was that purple color and he had mentioned before he got it wanting a white jeep. The paint wasn't in bad shape but there was some missing molding and we were going to try to get it painted white for him.

i called several shops and if i removed everything and they only had to "shoot it" it was going to run about 1200.

I've never used rattle cans to paint a car with but I used it to help camo my boat. I bought a quart of olive drab from bass pro and then a rattle can of black to break up the OD. I did that a few years ago and the OD looks good and the rattle can has faded a lot. not sure what a whole car would look like after a few years.

Alex, that orange-peel on the bottom-half of the truck (below the lowest body line) is actually "supposed to be" a rubber like underspray installed my maaco to deter rock chips leading to rust. The orange peel on the rest of the truck is, well, just a poor paint job. Have you spotted the kitty-little sized rock dead center of the hood in front of the driver? Horrible.

Rock, in the center of the hood on the drivers side? There is hood there? ... Oh wait! You didn't know about the Le Baron vents in the hood now did ya? :thumbsup: It should look good once me and Pat get done with her once I get the money to drive her out there and wrench on it for awhile. I'll keep updates here for ya. :cheers:

heh Anyways, yea I remember when I got it one of the first things I did was paint the red that was behind the bumpers and stuff. I use to get compliments on my old '86 paintjob I did, which was just rustoleum rattle canned. Looked good till the oxidization started to kick in, but it was still all uniform in color so still didn't look bad.

~Alex

idk, I thought alex's MJ looked good when I saw him the other day.

 

but...it was 2am on a dark street :P

 

BTW automan, alex and I are workin on gettin parts together for a proper restore on her.

Yep, Have been talking to Alex in PM's. I would love to see him finish that thing like I never did. And on a side note, I hope Dave yourself and I can work something out with the XJ. ;)

:cheers: Rob L.