philbert001

Mine is an 89, and I did ba10 to AW4, and it was cut and dry. My donor was a 90 xj, (Still renix, so it was pretty cut and dry.) I don't know what the difference will be for an HO era trans. You'll probably have different plugs to the Neutral safety switch, if not more, but they won't be bad to splice together. (My buddies AW4 in a 97 XJ has a different neutral safety switch plug than my 90.) Good luck, and let us know!

265/75/r16 is a 32".

You don't have to hog tie a corpse!

LMAO! I don't know weather to buy the car or file for divorce!

:agree:

Yup! My 53 chevy truck has a pull choke, and a pull throttle!

No problem! Obviously you know your $#!&, but one never knows who knows what! Some of the trim paints are pretty decent quality these days. I am an automotive painter, and have had pretty good luck with SEM products trim paints. If it comes down to it, and it isn't a perfect match, you could always blend it into the cab corner trim to mellow the color difference. (Like anybody will judge you on an imperfect color match behind the seat in a 20 some year old truck!) If they do, punch em for me, will ya!?

How else would I choke my wife! (Sorry! The Troll comes out when I drink and play on computer!)

I thought this was a trailer park snowplow for a minute there! And I thought my MJ bench, mounted to two MJ wheels was a sweet garage couch! I want it!

Go to the junkyard. that piece will be the same as in an XJ.

Ted Holland on stand-by!! Super like!

:agree: Although even if every Comanche owner on the road bought a set, it still probably wouldn't be cost effective!

DON'T YOU DARE CUT THAT UP! Rob, you better send the MJ police to Dayton! I'll cut my bedside off, and you can patch to your hearts content! Whaddaya want for it? How bout my first born! You come up with a Pass side one, and I've got more kids!

I'm definately ordering some of these on friday, thanks for the link. The only other question i have is what length of shocks should i run? I'm already running 2" shackles from Rough Country and i'm guessing the SOA will get me 3-4" more? Your soa will get you 5.5-6.5 more, depending on what perches you get. As for shocks, it depends what you do for shock mounts. If you just swap the stock mounts side to side, and re-use them, then you can run stockers, but your best bet is to get a set of shock mount tabs, and weld them to the axle tube. Then, just jack up the frame, and see how far your axle will droop, measure from lower mount to upper mount, and this will give you an extended measurement. Then just find a shock with a fully extended measurement that is a little longer than your full droop measurement, and you are good to go!

There are a LOT of places that sell perches for 2.75" tubes. That is the size of the tubes on a Dana 44. Dana 35s have 2.62" tubes, but the 2.75" ones will work fine since the difference is slightly more than 1/8". I got my D44 (2.75") perches from Ruffstuff. I was mistaken then, because mine were for a 44, and like you said, just a little fat!

Gotta love those electrical gremlins! :wall: Good job getting her figured out though! I've chased smaller gremlins for much longer than a half a day before!

Just don't buy them from Rusty's. I looked there, and they were like 17-18 bucks. I was like, cool! added to cart, went to check out, and they wanted $22 to ship them! :mad: They are in Tennessee or something, and I'm in Indiana! (Not Alaska!)

Wow, those ARE nice! I'd have gladly spent the extra 13 bucks, had I found that!

I have a Dana 35 under mine, (2 3/4 tube diameter), but 2 3/4 perches are few and far between, so I used 3". They work just fine. you just need to bridge the gap at each end when welding them on. 2.5 inches wide, (Spring width) That's all you need! If you have a fatter budget than me, you could go for the anti wrap perches, which usually have multiple mounting positions, allowing you to move your axle forward or backward an inch or so from center. Also, since they are longer, they help with the spring wrap under load, and help your springs hold up better/ longer. Hope that'll help!

Not a flip! simply under to over. Summit Racing has them cheapest I found. They were mopar spring perches, and they were like $17 shipped.

Mine is a renix/closed system, but if you think about it, it was doing the same thing. I had overheating problems, so I swapped in a 180 t-stat. Still overheated. My electric fan wasn't kicking on till 230, and by then, it was too late, so I hardwired the relay to the ignition switch. Problem solved for the next few years. It would occasionally, on a hot day, blow some coolant out of the bottle, (which is where the pressure cap is on the closed system), but that didn't concern me much because it wasn't overheating. Then, this spring, I decided to take this driveline out of my XJ, and put it in my MJ, and when I did, I realized how rotten my factory radiator was, so I ordered a new one. After installing it, not only did she run cooler, (180 on the dot with no fluctuation at all), But she picked up 10 lbs of oil pressure, and my volt gauge, which has registered 13 volts, since the day I bought her, started charging at the desired 14 volts! I was baffled to be honest, but the only thing I could think of, is that The radiator was so plugged up with crap, that the water pump had to build up lots of pressure to flow water through the plugged up radiator, and That was why it was puking coolant from the pressure cap. I'm also assuming that my gains in oil pressure, and charging voltage were a result of the decreased load on the engine due to the water pump no longer having to build up 15 lbs of pressure just to flow water. Hope you get her sorted out. Maybe this helped, maybe not, but maybe it gave you more to look at. Take the grille out of your truck and fire it up. Let it get up to temp, and feel the radiator for temperature consistency. I believe it should be hottest at the upper hose corner, and coolest at the lower hose corner, and a gradual temp change from one corner to the other. If you have extreme differences, (Like super hot spots right above or below cool spots), then I'd say you have a plugged up radiator too!

I got mine from an ebay store called radiator classic for like $85 shipped. 2 core, lifetime warranty. It's only like a month old, so I can't speak as to longevity, but with a lifetime warranty, I don't care if I have to replace it once a year! She hits 180, and sits there now! (180 degree t-stat)No fluctuation at all!

Yup!

I got my 6 inch extended, braided stainless front lines from rough country, on ebay. They were buy it now priced at $56, but had the "best offer", option, and they will take $50. They also had sets that included the rear line too. That's the best price I've found on em.

Boy you did a number on her! Did the Natty Ice have anything to do with it? I doubt you have the tools or skills to fix it right, so I'd just say strip the interior from the cabcorner area, and see how much you can beat it out from the inside. Hopefully you can move it enough to get the door to line back up! I've made more than a few Jeeps look like that! Trail damage is part of the game if you are gonna wheel em!