eaglescout526 Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 57 minutes ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said: Would you say this is the end/connection at the other end of my broken/cut wire? Does it just pull out or is there a latching of some kind to look for? There’s a tab that locks onto the connector for the stalk that needs to be pried up to remove the stalk from the connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pizzaman09 Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 1 hour ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said: Would you say this is the end/connection at the other end of my broken/cut wire? Does it just pull out or is there a latching of some kind to look for? The red connector you have circled is the connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 Great! Good to know I am messing with the right thing, and that just pulling isn't going to do it! If the other end is just flopping around in the column, it would seem I can just pull it on out the bottom, since I can't see it from the top anyway there's not a how lot advantage to leaving it in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pizzaman09 Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 1 hour ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said: Great! Good to know I am messing with the right thing, and that just pulling isn't going to do it! If the other end is just flopping around in the column, it would seem I can just pull it on out the bottom, since I can't see it from the top anyway there's not a how lot advantage to leaving it in there. Yep, just pull it out. The new one can be fished down from the top, it's easier with a stiffer wire. If you end up with a very floppy wire version, then maybe fish a stiffer coper wire down first then pull the new wire down by taping it to the new cruise wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 Ready to road test to confirm functionality before attempting to snake it through the column. Pulling the wire through I could already tell it was tight, so that will be fun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 Well that was a complete fail! Not a surprise really, but worth going for the Hail Mary first. So I can take a guess at what I might see if trying to test just the switch itself. There are 4 wires, I'll take a guess at what I might expect to see with a switch disconnected continuity test, and hope for a confirmation or correction from the experts Red (12V?) Reference for Continuity Test (Possibly 12V when Ignition Switch is ON and connected to harness) Blue (ON/OFF?) Open when OFF, Connected when ON Green (R/A?) Short when R/A Pressed (Momentary), Otherwise Open Yellow (Set?) Short with Set Pressed (Momentary), Otherwise Open Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watchamakalit Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 Somewhere out there is a guide to testing the renix cruise system. I haven't seen it in a while but I know it exists. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted March 6 Share Posted March 6 1 hour ago, watchamakalit said: Somewhere out there is a guide to testing the renix cruise system. I haven't seen it in a while but I know it exists. I found it can be done with a test light but it’s a bit tricky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted March 6 Share Posted March 6 3 hours ago, watchamakalit said: Somewhere out there is a guide to testing the renix cruise system. I haven't seen it in a while but I know it exists. @pizzaman09noted this post, https://comancheclub.com/topic/54804-cruise-control-stalk-connector-connects-to-what-connector/ and in that post you get to a second link http://jeep-manual.ru/index.php?page=78 (not a secure website BTW) that goes over testing with special test equipment (Cruise Command System Tester (AM PC-1-R)), and also links to a PDF of very similar testing (perhaps the same, I didn't do an exhaustive A-B compare of the two). What I was proposing above was a simplified initial test, just testing the switch unit stand-alone as an elimination (or identification) of that part being good or bad. So I was hoping someone might be able to confirm and/or correct that part of my proposed test since I don't have the referenced test equipment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted March 6 Share Posted March 6 1 hour ago, eaglescout526 said: I found it can be done with a test light but it’s a bit tricky. That "a bit tricky" part is what scares me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle_SX4 Posted March 6 Share Posted March 6 Found this post from @eaglescout526. It has a PDF file of the cruise control system with some diagnostic help in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted March 6 Share Posted March 6 1 hour ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said: That "a bit tricky" part is what scares me! Oh pffff don’t be scared at all. You honestly can’t do any damage. What you’re looking for is if any of the buttons trigger a complete circuit to illuminate the light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted March 6 Share Posted March 6 Ah-ha, after staring at the PDF long enough it sunk in (I have much more in common with the turtle than the rabbit), it does have the continuity information to test the switch. I don't understand how one would go about testing this with a 12V test light since once the connector is unplugged there is no voltage, so that is a bit confusing . Nevertheless, it does seem to show the info to test the switch itself with an ohmmeter and I have colorized it for convenience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted March 6 Share Posted March 6 The light test would be with the regulator(yellow AMC box) unplugged and the connector still plugged in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted March 7 Share Posted March 7 Ah. Well the switch disconnected continuity test failed. The cells below in RED did not read the continuity expected. I am going to wait a day and repeat this test because some of the reading did jump a bit, so I'd like to see if I can get the same answer twice. Assuming I do repeat and come to the determination that the switch is bad, below is my test play to try and prove that if I did have a good switch, cruise would work, using a couple toggle switches. Leaving out Resume/Accel for test 1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted March 7 Share Posted March 7 Here's the schematic and the test switch. It is not going to win any beauty contest, but if I interpreted the matrix correctly, and if my switch is the faulty component, I should be able to make cruise come on with this ugly switch, but I have a couple NCAAW March Madness games to watch first... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted March 7 Share Posted March 7 Well crap. Just got stopped dead in my tracks. Before I soldered my test switches to the wires, I decided to ohm out the wires in the cable to make sure they are connected and not broken along the way, and in doing so I discovered that the wire colors to pin assignments as noted in the PDF do not match my cable. With the cable connector oriented the same as show in Fig 3 I find the following: The top side top blade is identified as wire #2 (Green) but ohms out to the Red wire in my cable. The top side bottom blade is identified as wire #4 (Blue) but ohms out to the Green wire in my cable. The bottom side top blade is identified as wire #1 (Yellow) and this one matches my cable. The bottom side bottom blade is identified as wire #3 (Red) but ohms out to the Blue wire in my cable. I'm tempted to believe the pin numbers rather than the colors, but I have nothing to confirm that is the right answer. Anyone have any alternate detail to validate the pin numbers, or the colors, in some other way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted March 7 Share Posted March 7 _mj1988electricalmanual_1.pdf pg48 - Cruise Control pg80 - C253 pinout Maybe it can help here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 Thanks. That looks helpful. I have never been that good at automotive schematics, but perhaps not is the time to improve that skill and if I figure it out, I'll post the answer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watchamakalit Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 Might be a little late to the party but I found the document I was referring to earlier. 1988 Cherokee FSM-cruise control system.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 18 hours ago, watchamakalit said: Might be a little late to the party but I found the document I was referring to earlier. Not all that late, it is a duplicate though. But 2 copies is much better than 0 copies . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watchamakalit Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 4 minutes ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said: Not all that late, it is a duplicate though. But 2 copies is much better than 0 copies . Yeah I realized it after I posted it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 (edited) OK, once I was able to sync up the two PDF files, and decode what colors in MY cable are (since they don't match) I repeated the continuity test and it was a 100% PASS. I remember my cruise switch was replaced under warranty once around 1995, and a second time in 2008, it is not a huge surprise that the wire colors might not match the factory part, especially given the second replacement was not done by a dealership. Unfortunately that means that if my switch is good, the failure is elsewhere. I may not go much farther down this rabbit hole since I don't take that many lengthy trips, which is really where the cruise was useful to me. But if I do decide to dive in, I'll pick up at this point. Thanks for the info up to this point. Edited March 9 by AnotherOldJeepGuy removed image with errors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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