NC Tom Posted February 25, 2023 Share Posted February 25, 2023 IT AIN'T EASY!!!! I have watched several vids about this and everybody seems to taking off different random parts to get the job done. The 4.0's they are working don't look like mine. That doesn't help me at all. I finally found a vid of a guy working on a '89. Looked mostly like my '88. Looked pretty straightforward, he wasn't taking off so many parts. I gave it a shot, couldn't do it, got pissed and put everything back! I cannot figure out what parts REALLY need to come off to get the fuel rail off. I have two screws at the front of the engine that I haven't seen anyone else remove. WTF?! Looks like they must come off! See pic. I also can't get the injectors loose from the rail. I can get the clips off, but the part that supposedly "pops right off" ain't budging. I do not want to break anything. I have a leaking injector, see vid, so I need to get this done. Is there a source for this job that is simple and straightforward enough for a Neanderthal to follow along. That's what I need. 1370240546_gasspray.mov Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Classy Comanche Posted February 25, 2023 Share Posted February 25, 2023 Yeah....when I look at how to's on YouTube a lot and they're like "oh yes it's just that easy!" And proceeds to show a newer version of the engine that's been modified and I'm looking at mine saying "well that doesn't look similar at all. How did they get that off when I have to remove 3 or 4 components to get what I need to get to" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted February 25, 2023 Share Posted February 25, 2023 For the electrical connectors it might be easier to fish the lock springs off of them with a pick first. Then you can wiggle the connector off without fear of breaking anything if the lock pops back in. It's what I normally do with them, just don't lose the locks. I don't think you have to undo that bracket for the FP regulator buuuuuuut... I'm not sure, and I put a HO intake/rail on my current one. Soak both ends of the injectors with WD-40 to make it easier to get them wiggling so you can pull it all apart. The orings on them will glue themselves in place and make it seem like it is still bolted when it isn't. Change all the orings when you get it apart. If you reuse any of them it is asking for leaks. I lube them all with a little WD-40 or silicone oil before assembly. Make sure everything is clean too, no corrosion or burrs, you don't want to cut any of the orings on reassembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted February 25, 2023 Author Share Posted February 25, 2023 1 hour ago, DirtyComanche said: For the electrical connectors it might be easier to fish the lock springs off of them with a pick first. Yeah, I did have them off. Had taken the pic after I put it all back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeyyank Posted February 26, 2023 Share Posted February 26, 2023 I just swapped the injectors on my 92 this afternoon. Wasn't that bad. Not sure if it's more difficult on a renix. To get the clips off you need a pick to get to the metal slide clamp thingy and just get one side out and they should pop off the injector. It takes some finesse but nothing too crazy. As for getting the old injector out you gotta give them a good yank. Little wiggle and jiggle action doesn't hurt. You also should be able to disconnect the fuel line going into the rail and not need to worry about the regulator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howeitsdone Posted February 26, 2023 Share Posted February 26, 2023 Ya gotta use the force, Luke. It won't come off easily the first time. Those injectors are married to the rail and you gotta be the neighbor to divorce 'em. Best to yank it front first and then rear, or vise-versa. Remove the injector electrical connectors, depressurize, remove send line, remove return line, take off vacuum hose from regulator, and then there are four 1/2" bolt heads that gotta come off. Replace all o-rings and make sure to get extra for the send/return lines. The use Vaseline or silicone lubricant when putting back on and it will be smooth as butter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted February 26, 2023 Share Posted February 26, 2023 These things ^^^^^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oleskool Posted February 26, 2023 Share Posted February 26, 2023 They are pretty straight forward honestly and some good advice here. Take your time and don’t be afraid to wiggle and pull at the same time to unseat those o-rings. Go ahead and throw a new pressure regulator in there too while your at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pizzaman09 Posted February 27, 2023 Share Posted February 27, 2023 The advice here is all solid. I did my 90 Renix, has the same setup. Definitely pull the front first and try to unseat injector 1. Then repeat the process at the rear injector. It may also help to rotate the injectors as if they were a shaft in an o-ring to break some of the seals. I bet when you get them apart that you will have several o-rings stuck in the fuel rail. They can be removed with a pick. They can be mega stubborn if not taken apart before. I sometimes like to use a flat blades screwdriver at the manifold end of the injector to pry them up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted March 5, 2023 Author Share Posted March 5, 2023 On 2/26/2023 at 1:11 PM, oleskool said: They are pretty straight forward honestly and some good advice here. Take your time and don’t be afraid to wiggle and pull at the same time to unseat those o-rings. Go ahead and throw a new pressure regulator in there too while your at it. Okay. Making some progress. BUT, (see pic) I am not finding any help removing this thing. I don't even see it on videos. I know the fuel line connects to it, but I cannot figure it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiatslug87 Posted March 5, 2023 Share Posted March 5, 2023 Have you loosened that return line? It should just pull off when squeezing those tabs. The regulator just presses onto the fuel rail with an o-ring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oleskool Posted March 5, 2023 Share Posted March 5, 2023 1 hour ago, NC Tom said: Okay. Making some progress. BUT, (see pic) I am not finding any help removing this thing. I don't even see it on videos. I know the fuel line connects to it, but I cannot figure it out. See the two sides that project to the front and rear of the truck? Press those tabs and wiggle it. If it’s been there for a long time it will take some work to get it to release. It’s just a plastic clip and and oring inside holding it into the regulator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiatslug87 Posted March 5, 2023 Share Posted March 5, 2023 There’s also a plastic spacer in there, don’t loose it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted March 5, 2023 Share Posted March 5, 2023 29 minutes ago, fiatslug87 said: There’s also a plastic spacer in there, don’t loose it. Super important, because I don't know if you can buy them. Dorman sells the clips I believe. If they're at all crunchy, replace them, because having the line pop off because the clip fails will quite possibly end in burning your truck down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted March 5, 2023 Author Share Posted March 5, 2023 25 minutes ago, DirtyComanche said: Super important, because I don't know if you can buy them. Dorman sells the clips I believe. If they're at all crunchy, replace them, because having the line pop off because the clip fails will quite possibly end in burning your truck down. Yeah, they are crunchy and did break. Dammit!!! Looking for a replacement now. If anyone know the part number please share as I have this thing all apart now! Thanks for the help everybody. Finally got the fuel rail off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted March 5, 2023 Author Share Posted March 5, 2023 Oreilly has the repair kit. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/standard-ignition/standard-ignition-3-16-inch-i-d-1-1-2-inch-long-plastic-fuel-line-repair-kit/std0/hk7/v/a/2238/automotive-truck-1988-jeep-comanche?q=fuel+line+reoair+kit&pos=2 At $25.00 bucks it's a complete rip off for the customer! Sheesh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted March 5, 2023 Share Posted March 5, 2023 That "kit" is just over $10 on Rockauto (I'm guessing conversion because mine shows in funny money), under Standard Motor Products P/N HK7. You can also grab a Standard Motor Products SK9 for a kit of 12 orings for the injectors for another $7. If you don't like Rockauto you should be able to get them from other retailers as that's a fairly generic brand. I swear Dorman makes them too, but you'd have to look in their catalog probably. Dorman 800-016 is the same part, but for bigger (5/16" and 3/8") lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted March 5, 2023 Author Share Posted March 5, 2023 36 minutes ago, DirtyComanche said: That "kit" is just over $10 on Rockauto (I'm guessing conversion because mine shows in funny money), under Standard Motor Products P/N HK7. You can also grab a Standard Motor Products SK9 for a kit of 12 orings for the injectors for another $7. If you don't like Rockauto you should be able to get them from other retailers as that's a fairly generic brand. I swear Dorman makes them too, but you'd have to look in their catalog probably. Dorman 800-016 is the same part, but for bigger (5/16" and 3/8") lines. I did find the Dorman clips at Advance. They will have them at 3 pm tomorrow. Even if I grab some O-rings, it will be half the cost of the kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted March 5, 2023 Author Share Posted March 5, 2023 Okay folks, this job is almost done! I really do appreciate all the advice and direction given. Hopefully, tomorrow evening I'll have this thing 100% complete, leak-free and ready to go! My only worry now is that the larger retaining clips don't serve a purpose now on the replacement injectors as they are a different shape. They are the ones Stankfoot recommended for Renix trucks, so I gotta go with that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted March 5, 2023 Author Share Posted March 5, 2023 5 hours ago, NC Tom said: Okay. Making some progress. BUT, (see pic) I am not finding any help removing this thing. I don't even see it on videos. I know the fuel line connects to it, but I cannot figure it out. Yeah, just had to squeeze the tabs. Other guys on YouTube were using a disconnect tool. I thought I needed one, but clearly, I didn't! I really overthought this whole process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted March 7, 2023 Author Share Posted March 7, 2023 Well, I got excited too soon! Truck won't start. Turns over fine, but that's all she does. Apparently, while moving all the hoses and crap around I damaged some vacuum lines. I'll try to repair them tomorrow, but I didn't think vacuum lines would cause no start, just a rough idle. If anyone can offer suggestions about what may be causing the no-start, please, please chime in! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howeitsdone Posted March 7, 2023 Share Posted March 7, 2023 You can try disconnecting and reconnecting the CPS. Sometimes working in that area of wires can pull it loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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