Project “Tomahawk”

[ghetdjc320]

Getting the motor mounting position and crossmember/tranny mount configured has been a chore. Lots of measuring and adjusting to fit. Here is my final configuration for the mounting points. It should be noted that not all ls engine swaps are the same. I’ve run into this a few times now. This particular engine is a 2003 C5 corvette LS1 with LS6 intake which is a 5.7 all aluminum engine. The stock accessory configuration actually fits the Comanche quite well as it is made to fit the low hood clearance of a corvette. The exception being the AC compressor which @Limeyjeeper has been helping me sort out. It is true though that there are so many fitment options available for these engines to fit in almost anything. Those using the truck based LQ engines will have a different accessory configuration that will require some different conversion parts. 

Here is my final configuration for the mounts

Novak Engine mounts: center position

Novak universal ax15 mount: see pics for bracket orientation and spacer configuration.

 

Keep in mind that I welded on a 1/4” steel plate on the top of the cross member to provide a clean and strong mounting surface. I wanted to run the stock cross member as I’m still planning to run the oem tcase skid if at all possible. 

 

Had to make a small notch on the passenger side coil bracket. Bellhousing to firewall clearance is 1/4”. I reached out to Chad with QuickDraw where I got the ls to ax bellhousing from and suggested they make a divot or flat top on the top of the bellhousing for additional firewall clearance. He said the next batch will have some more clearance. It’s not a problem but for some rigs it may be easier to fit different drivetrain angles.

 

Currently on level ground I have 5.5* slant to the rear on the engine and 3* up on the pinion. That difference of 2.5* is right where i wanted to be and will ensure there is some movement in the u joint needle bearings. I don’t plan to run a double cardan shaft as it’s just not needed with the correct angles at this lift height. For those that are interested though, there is a full sye kit from Tom woods for the NP242.

 

With these Novak headers (Made by Sanderson), the fit in the engine bay is good but I’ll have to reroute the ac evaporator drip line. 
 

That’s it for now. Will be picking this project back up mid September. 

[ghetdjc320]

Had to add one last pic for now. Here is the Novak Radiator with their fan setup. I set this in the stock radiator support holes. Nice clearance even with that long nose ls1 water pump. I just noticed how the e fan on the hot side (passenger side) of the radiator is much larger than the rest. That’s a very good idea if one has the room. 

[Limeyjeeper]

1 hour ago, ghetdjc320 said:

Got it! Which hole did you end up using for the offset on the bracket? I assume you run the 4 groove belt on the 6 rib compressor pulley? Thanks! 

I have attached the instructions. You need to use the Corvette holes. Also you should get a K040340 or K040350 belt as you cannot use the whole of the adjustment on the tensioner bracket or you will hit the frame rail. So a 1" to 2" shorter belt will stop that as it tensions quicker. This is a 4 rib belt. Not sure which one I ended up using.

416896577_DD-LS-AC-LMPassengerLowMountA_CInstall.pdf

[ghetdjc320]

23 minutes ago, Limeyjeeper said:

I have attached the instructions. You need to use the Corvette holes. Also you should get a K040340 or K040350 belt as you cannot use the whole of the adjustment on the tensioner bracket or you will hit the frame rail. So a 1" to 2" shorter belt will stop that as it tensions quicker. This is a 4 rib belt. Not sure which one I ended up using.

416896577_DD-LS-AC-LMPassengerLowMountA_CInstall.pdf 2.68 MB · 1 download

Perfect, thanks for that. That should be a relatively easy fit. Iirc you installed your mounts to position the engine as far back as it goes. So your compressor should be closer to the frame side mount than mine. It should clear without a hitch if yours did I would assume. 

[Limeyjeeper]

Correct. Now I have the Novak fans I could probably move the engine forward a bit.

[ghetdjc320]

5 hours ago, Limeyjeeper said:

Correct. Now I have the Novak fans I could probably move the engine forward a bit.

If you decide to run your quick draw bellhousing you will probably have to move it forward for clearance. I’m in the middle point now but I think I may move it forward all the way when it’s all said and done. Not too challenging to make that change with the engine mounted at this point. I think those holes are only about a 1/2” difference iirc. Thanks a ton for you input and help! 

[neohic]

On 8/8/2022 at 11:49 AM, ghetdjc320 said:

…the e fan on the hot side (passenger side) of the radiator is much larger than the rest…

Hu! I should do that with my setup. 

[Limeyjeeper]

2 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said:

If you decide to run your quick draw bellhousing you will probably have to move it forward for clearance. I’m in the middle point now but I think I may move it forward all the way when it’s all said and done. Not too challenging to make that change with the engine mounted at this point. I think those holes are only about a 1/2” difference iirc. Thanks a ton for you input and help! 

I might be ok as the Novak adapter is bigger than the quick draw adapter, but we will see. Always happy to help. If you have any more questions, you know where to find me!! 

[ghetdjc320]

For reference, all the fans on the Novak unit are Spal units. The shroud covers practically every square inch of that radiator. I do plan on adding a condenser fan as well for the ac as that can make a huge difference when idling or in traffic. 

[watchamakalit]

Come on man, I'm going through "update withdraw".  You can't post that many in a row and just stop. 

[ghetdjc320]

On 9/2/2022 at 8:55 PM, watchamakalit said:

Come on man, I'm going through "update withdraw".  You can't post that many in a row and just stop. 

 been away on work but return in 2 weeks. I’ll be hitting the ground running to get this project finished before winter. 

Attached some recent pics to hold you over until then 

 

[fiatslug87]

What do you do? If you don’t mind me asking.

[watchamakalit]

16 hours ago, fiatslug87 said:

What do you do? If you don’t mind me asking.

Looks like lay on the beach and tape wires.

[ghetdjc320]

Almost time to get this project moving again. Body work is next. Have to do some hot work first welding in the bed section along with the bed corner under the drivers tail light. Will disassemble the doors as well and get everything ready for finish work. Ultimately, I’ve been gathering everything needed to make the “Trail Master” concept MJ a reality. 10 slot chrome grill, turbines, original Marchal fogs, hidden winch, skid package and the warrior gen 1 brush guard bumper which is the closest thing I could find in the aftermarket that resembles the original brush guard and seems to have a nice “period correct” design. I will have a lot of extra parts when this is all done. The goal is finally in sight though. I'm going to have this eliminator live up to its name 

 

[ghetdjc320]

Updates! 
 

Doing the final metal work and prepping the patch panels. @Dzimm made me a custom set of tail light housings for the 1156/1157 waterproof sockets. These use 4 locator tabs and have a much better seal. All the wiring is sealed as well. Trying to track down a set of splash guards/mud flaps if anyone has any they’d like to sell/trade. 

[ghetdjc320]

All welded up and smoothers out. Added a backing plate to the bottom for extra strength. 
 

 

[ghetdjc320]

Bed corner replaced. Thanks @Pete M for those pieces from the sacrificial bed 

[pago cruiser]

First, dang you do good work!

 

Speaking of front bumpers....

 

"... the warrior gen 1 brush guard bumper which is the closest thing I could find in the aftermarket that resembles the original brush guard and seems to have a nice “period correct” design."

 

Is the attached pic what you are referring to? I like this style as well; clean & functional. It also comes with the bumper reinforcement kit according to the tech guy at the factory.

 

Although I do wish the headlight ears were a slightly larger diameter. 

That said, they sure are proud of em...

 

I'm thinking of eventually flat towing the Comanche behind an RV; asked the Warrior tech guy if his D-Rings would be suitable attachment points for a Tow Bar; he indicated this should not be a problem.    

[ghetdjc320]

3 hours ago, pago cruiser said:

First, dang you do good work!

 

Speaking of front bumpers....

 

"... the warrior gen 1 brush guard bumper which is the closest thing I could find in the aftermarket that resembles the original brush guard and seems to have a nice “period correct” design."

 

Is the attached pic what you are referring to? I like this style as well; clean & functional. It also comes with the bumper reinforcement kit according to the tech guy at the factory.

 

Although I do wish the headlight ears were a slightly larger diameter. 

That said, they sure are proud of em...

 

I'm thinking of eventually flat towing the Comanche behind an RV; asked the Warrior tech guy if his D-Rings would be suitable attachment points for a Tow Bar; he indicated this should not be a problem.    

Yep that’s it! Got mine at Morris 4x4. Took about maybe 2-3 weeks to ship. I still have it all wrapped up in the shop along with a ton of other things. The D ring version of this bumper adds some cost but that’s because they add significant bracing for those d ring mount points. It’s a very nice bumper for sure. Was planning to go with the Hanson rear MJ bumper (not advertised but they will make them upon request) as it matches nicely but I also have an oem bumper and hitch I could use if need be. 

[ghetdjc320]

Just knocked out what I hope to be the last of the patch panels. I’ll sand down the hole bed and shoot it with epoxy primer before adding some evercoat fibertech over the weld joints followed by Rage then a glazing compound as a skim coat. Bottom of the bed and inside will be raptor lined. Some strategic use of seam sealer and adding better drainage is in order as well. 

[ghetdjc320]

Bed cleaned up. Lots more body work left but the major pieces are all in.

[ghetdjc320]

Had to pause to build a paint booth. Should be complete in a day or so. 

[ghetdjc320]

Getting all sealed up

[ghetdjc320]

Body work has started. Doors have been stripped of absolutely all hardware down to the factory shell. Going to be running full size windows in these to delete the factory stationary vent window and give me a full size window for once. Also doing electric locks and windows. Managed to strip off the old bedliner paint that someone had shot over the eliminator graphics. That stuff is nasty to remove. Here is also a small sample of what to expect for the hood. And yes, those are original 98 5.9 ZJ louvers. Going to play around with fitment as the ones I’ve seen installed seemed too far forward. Further back is a bit more agressive. Seems like they were trying to avoid the hood support structure but I don’t mind modifying that to get just the right look. By the way, if anyone needs a set of manual window regulators that work I have two to get rid of. 
 

 

[ghetdjc320]

Finalizing some details on the underside of the bed before lining. Had to straighten many seams and dents from years of abuse. Wire brushed the whole underside and use a red scuff pad as far as I could into the wheel well areas then water blasted it all. Por15’d all the problem areas and will let that cure overnight before lining the underside. Once that cures it will be flipped over and the top side will be worked on. Also started disassembling the tailgate and separating the shell. This one is in seriously rough shape but I’ll see what I can do.