Issues with lift

[Jesse J]

I measured from the fenders to the ground I didnt realize that I was doing it the wrong way

[watchamakalit]

4 hours ago, Jesse J said:

I measured from the fenders to the ground I didnt realize that I was doing it the wrong way

So whats the verdict when you measure the right way?

 

Definitely make the lift up in the springs not the shackles. You'll thank yourself.

[Jesse J]

2 hours ago, watchamakalit said:

So whats the verdict when you measure the right way?

 

Definitely make the lift up in the springs not the shackles. You'll thank yourself.

Idk yet havent gotten up to my dads to measure yet. Likely afterschool tomorrow

[Jesse J]

when can I measure for my front drive shaft? My front axle has no pinion gear right now but I can through one and tighten the yoke down enough to get a measurement within a 1/4 inch

[Pete M]

the stock shaft might be just fine.  it doesn't have the same limitations as the rear shaft because the slip is in the middle rather than the end. 

[Jesse J]

I think my shaft will be too long. I will work on it this weekend

[Pete M]

oh right, forgot about the 44 axles.  Is your caster set and burned in?

[Jesse J]

Not yet looks like this atm 

[Pete M]

it looks like your axle needs to be pushed forward a bit more.  or at least the axle rotate a bit.  the coil isn't straight.  and since you're starting from scratch here, I would pull the coils out and make sure that the bump stop will contact the lower coil bucket properly by cycling the axle up (which is hard to do with the coil in the way).

[Jesse J]

Ok makes sense I will work on that when I get the chance. Trac bar still is too short or at least doesn’t want to line up

[howeitsdone]

I sort of had the same issue but opposite. The spring would catch on the bump stop flange. But IIRC once I put the wheels on and got under a load it all sorted itself out. Then I tightened everything. There's a chart around here that has proper control arm lengths per height of lift too that helped. Not sure if you can tell in the pic, but I didn't even have my UCAs on yet and this bend got worse once they were.

 

[Pete M]

19 minutes ago, Jesse J said:

Ok makes sense I will work on that when I get the chance. Trac bar still is too short or at least doesn’t want to line up

 

make sure the axle is centered under the truck side to side. 

[Jesse J]

ok so I measure to the bottom of the axle tube (truss makes it hard to measure top) 18 3/4 in the front 18 3/4 in the back to the frame rails.

[Pete M]

What are the stock numbers? 

[ghetdjc320]

Here is the info:

 

To attain factory rake (which is about +/- 2”) the front measurement needs to be approx 3/4” higher than the rear using the above technique from the FSM. 

[Jesse J]

so I need to lower the front?

[ghetdjc320]

1 hour ago, Jesse J said:

so I need to lower the front?

To attain factory rake (which is about +/- 2”) the front measurement needs to be approx 3/4” higher than the rear using the above technique from the FSM.

[Pete M]

at this point everything is close enough that I would carry on with all the details and then reassess once it's down on the ground and everything is welded in.    

[watchamakalit]

5 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said:

To attain factory rake (which is about +/- 2”) the front measurement needs to be approx 3/4” higher than the rear using the above technique from the FSM.

That statement confuses me. How does a 3/4" difference translate to a 2" difference in rake?

 

When I set up my control arms I started with the location of the tire in the wheel well. After that i set my pinion angle. Then I made adjustments to the trackbar to center the axle under the body.

[mjeff87]

I solved this dilema by setting up the rear axle and then using a set of ACOS in the front to get the rake I wanted.  I was using a set of TJ lift coils and didn't know where the front was going to end up sitting.....they worked like a charm.

[ghetdjc320]

2 hours ago, watchamakalit said:

That statement confuses me. How does a 3/4" difference translate to a 2" difference in rake?

 

When I set up my control arms I started with the location of the tire in the wheel well. After that i set my pinion angle. Then I made adjustments to the trackbar to center the axle under the body.

 

It’s all about the factory measuring points for ride height. The rear measurement will be approx 6” and the front 6.75”. That is a factory ride height from the FSM. This doesn’t mean that the front site .75” higher. After all, think about all the bends in the frame. If we were dealing with a frame that was absolutely flat on the bottom and perfectly parallel to the road that would be a whole different story. 
 

As many have stated though, you can simply adjust ride height to dial in what you need with minor adjustments like using an acos coil mount, a coil spacer and/or longer shackles. But if you were to take a stock truck that sits at stock original ride height and lifted it an equal amount both front and rear, you would preserve the factory rake. Leveling “kits” typically raise only the front of a vehicle to “level” the rig. But a kit that lifts equal amounts both front and rear over stock will preserve the factory rake. 
 

Keep in mind that lift height numbers given by manufacturers for springs are typically based on oem ride heights. Some rigs ride higher or lower than stock so you actual lift height varies from one vehicle to the next. 

[Jesse J]

So I need to go up 3/4s in the rear? Or what exactly is the plan of attack?

[ghetdjc320]

4 minutes ago, Jesse J said:

So I need to go up 3/4s in the rear? Or what exactly is the plan of attack?

Get the wheel under it than adjust as you want

[Jesse J]

Ok sounds good. Stil need to order tires hopefully tonight. When should I measure for shocks? Sooner rather than later I’m trying to make it to the takeover

[Jesse J]

ok So from what I’m picking up I’m not too far out of where I want to be. Close enough to get the rear burned in and the front more dialed. Get tires on then measure for shocks?