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Front Axle Removal


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Ok let start the project there are few things that you are going to need tool wise. There is nothing special other than an inverted torque socket and a tuning fork. For this project I will say that it was easier than I thought I looks like a great big project but in the end it only took about 3 hr. This was my first time taking a front axle out of any truck.

 

****JUST MAKE SURE YOU ARE CAREFUL WITH THOSE SPRING THEY CAN AND WILL FLY OUT AND TAKE YOUR HEAD OFF JUST BE CAREFUL. ****

 

Ok lets get this truck in the air and the front tires off. I used my cherry picker to get it up high enough so that the front axle would hang down.

 

**Make sure you support your truck with jack stand or jack just be careful.**

 

Next I loosened the shocks, I left them attach to the truck just took the lower part of the shock off. I used a ½ socket and box end wrench.

 

Then I took the brakes and rotors off. I went a head and left the brake caliper and brake lines attached to the truck save me from bleeding the brakes later. I all so took the rotors off. Mine took a 12 mm socket

*****IMOPRTANT YOU CAN INSTALL BRAKE CALIPER UPSIDE DOWN****

****THEY WILL NOT BLEED RIGHT AND YOU WILL NOT HAVE BRAKES***

Then I took the drag link off the pitman arm again you could take it off and the axle I wanted to pull the axle out as a whole.

And you will need this tool I call it a tuning fork. What ever it is.

 

Then I took the track bar off of the frame mount. Once again you could take it off at the axle end.

 

****IMPORTANT TO SUPPORT THE AXLE AT THIS TIME BY USING A JACK OR JACK STANDS SO THE AXLE WON’T FALL ON THE FLOOR****

Then you will need that inverted torque bit that I mentioned earlier to get the upper control arms off. Or at least I did.

 

Driver side upper.

Passage side upper:

Then I took the lowers off at this time.

Also at this time undo the front drive shaft. Mine takes a 8mm box end wrench.

 

One more thing to add this is your freind when working on you Jeep

 

****There are more way to do this. This is just one way. I am not responsible for injury or damage done to you or your truck this is just a guide for you guys to get an ideal of how I took my axle out. *****

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Tuning fork = pickle fork= tie rod seperator.

 

Were those 12mm bolts on the calipers, 12-pt?

We are going to want to make sure any anomalies like this are detailed.

 

Rounding tools up expecting to do a project, only to find out you actually need something special can be a killer.....

 

If you would like someone to proofread your stuff, I would be glad to help out.

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Tuning fork = pickle fork= tie rod seperator.

 

Were those 12mm bolts on the calipers, 12-pt?

We are going to want to make sure any anomalies like this are detailed.

 

Rounding tools up expecting to do a project, only to find out you actually need something special can be a killer.....

 

If you would like someone to proofread your stuff, I would be glad to help out.

 

Thats an awful big caliper bolt! Mine are 5/16 or 8mm (those 2 sizes are SO close, it doesnt even metter) 12pt.

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Tuning fork = pickle fork= tie rod seperator.

 

Were those 12mm bolts on the calipers, 12-pt?

We are going to want to make sure any anomalies like this are detailed.

 

Rounding tools up expecting to do a project, only to find out you actually need something special can be a killer.....

 

If you would like someone to proofread your stuff, I would be glad to help out.

 

Thats an awful big caliper bolt! Mine are 5/16 or 8mm (those 2 sizes are SO close, it doesnt even metter) 12pt.

 

Mine were also on my 90. On my 88 they were that goofy 7mm allen bolt.

But when dealing with Jeep, I've learned just about anything is possible.....

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If you would like someone to proofread your stuff, I would be glad to help out.

 

My strong points are not spelling and or grammar. I had the wife look over it before I posted it but I see that I missed some stuff. But for the most part who reads the captions they just look at the pretty pics.

 

 

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And when they say "Just hit it a little harder"................ :headpop:

 

 

But think of everything you are learning :nuts:

 

Yeah but man what a ride. :brows:

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As far as the caliper bolts go I could be wrong. They came with them when I bought them new this could be the reason

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I am not done with this post I will be reinstalling the axle after I beef up the control arm mounts on the new axle. This way I have an extra front axle to play with. I am think 4.88's, super 30 kit and a locker my be this time next year but then again..................... :popcorn:

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****JUST MAKE SURE YOU ARE CAREFUL WITH THOSE SPRING THEY CAN AND WILL FLY OUT AND TAKE YOUR HEAD OFF JUST BE CAREFUL. ****

 

heh? :dunno:

He is talking about the coils springs maybe? The accepted method was to chain the coil to the frame until all of the tension was released. If you are pulling the entire axle out you could leave the coil bolted to the spring pad and let them come out with the axle.
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I have never needed a pickle fork to remove the steering. They rip the boots and there is an easier way. Strike the end of the knuckle(not the tie rod) where the tie rod goes threw with about a 32 ounce hammer (while prying down slightly on the steering with a big pry bar if needed). It will pop right out in a couple hits. By striking the end of the knuckle it causes the taper to come loose and slide right out. The same way works for the pitman arm and even ball joints.

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I have never needed a pickle fork to remove the steering. They rip the boots and there is an easier way. Strike the end of the knuckle(not the tie rod) where the tie rod goes threw with about a 32 ounce hammer (well prying down slightly on the steering with a big pry bar if needed). It will pop right out in a couple hits. By striking the end of the knuckle it causes the taper to come loose and slide right out. The same way works for the pitman arm and even ball joints.

jamminz.gif did that on my stepbrothers jetta when he bent a tie-rod... works like a charm :popcorn:

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I have never needed a pickle fork to remove the steering. They rip the boots and there is an easier way. Strike the end of the knuckle(not the tie rod) where the tie rod goes threw with about a 32 ounce hammer (while prying down slightly on the steering with a big pry bar if needed). It will pop right out in a couple hits. By striking the end of the knuckle it causes the taper to come loose and slide right out. The same way works for the pitman arm and even ball joints.

 

yeah now you tell me.

 

It did rip the boot so I am going to need to replace the joint.

 

As far as the inverted torque socket goes I did not put this front end under the truck it was already under when I bought the truck. So the guy my have used what ever he had laying around. They are those 6 point stars socket and mine was a T-45. They are like the ones on the top of the tranny (those 2 on the top) other than they don’t stick out they are sunken in to the head of the bolt. Here is a link that has a pic of what I am talking about.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=94188

 

As far as leaving the tire on or taking them off I guess if it was a D44 or D60 I can see this but it is a D30. It can’t be that heavy and I like having everything out of my way when I am trying to take things apart.

 

I really like these DIY threads I have learned a lot from doing it to the discussions that have fallowed.

 

ANd thanks for the good words jamminz.gif

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those are torx bits in your link, you can find torx on the header panel, the hood latch (in the center) seat belt holder bolts (the one on the floor) T45 would be a seat belt one (iirc)

 

inverted torx are also called external torx and are E12 or E34 pr w/e size you happen to have.

 

(i think E12 or E14 are the top two tranny bolts)

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Ok guys I just got a new to me axle from renixpower thanks for the hook up. And to Andy a guy that’s in our local 4x4 club for welding and fabricating the new lower control arm brackets supports. It is a disco axle the upper control arm is cast into the axle so I don’t think I am going to be able to bend this one like I did my other one. Now as far as the lower control arms go they are the same weak metal that my old axle had.

 

So I had some 3/16 steel laying around and I put it to good use. I did not get any pic of the process but here is how it went:

 

1. Get some cardboard make a template of the lower control arm sides

2. Take that template put it on the steel plate that you want to use. And cut them out.

3. Weld in to place and you should get something like this. See pic below. Then we took a piece of steel that he had lying around the shop and welded a piece across the bottom for more support. If you add this piece make sure your lower control arms will clear.

 

Here are some pic of my old lower control arm mount

 

And now my new beefy lower control arm mounts.

 

I still need to do some work to the axle be for I put it under the Jeep. I am going to put in a new ujoint on the driver side the passenger side has been replace recently so I thought I would do the other now before it breaks out on the trail. And add new gear oil and put in that vent hose thing in.

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