Jump to content

Break lines


Recommended Posts

If you buy them from Classic Tube, please let us know if they fit. The set I bought for my '87 weren't even close. I think they might have been for a Gladiator (the real Gladiator, not the new wannabe Gladiator).

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just get a spool of copper nickel brake line and run it yourself.  Snaking pre-bent lines in is basically impossible so you'll be bending them anyway.  Copper nickel is super easy to work with and it never rusts so you'll never change the lines again.  A 25ft spool does the entire truck except the load sensing valve.  

 

This is the kit I buy when I redo an MJ or XJ.  Has all the fittings you need plus some and is only $30.

25 Ft. of 3/16" (4.75 mm) Copper... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01801G45A?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Dzimm said:

Just get a spool of copper nickel brake line and run it yourself.  Snaking pre-bent lines in is basically impossible so you'll be bending them anyway.  Copper nickel is super easy to work with and it never rusts so you'll never change the lines again.  A 25ft spool does the entire truck except the load sensing valve.  

 

This is the kit I buy when I redo an MJ or XJ.  Has all the fittings you need plus some and is only $30.

25 Ft. of 3/16" (4.75 mm) Copper... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01801G45A?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

That's the stuff I use now. It's even easier to work with than the coated steel line you buy at the chain parts houses. You can also find pre-made lengths of gravel shield on Amazon to make the lines on the rear axle look completely original.

 

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=brake+line+gravel+guard&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

 

Then you just need a tubing bender. I've done some complete vehicles just using one like this: https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W704C-Tubing-Bender/dp/B0002KO2H0/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=brake+line+bender+tool&qid=1583678282&sr=8-15

 

For a few dollars more, you can go high tech on the bender with this: https://www.amazon.com/LORESO-Bender-Degrees-Bending-Aluminum/dp/B07S8DQBNL/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=brake+line+bender+tool&qid=1583678416&sr=8-11

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, Eagle said:

 

That's the stuff I use now. It's even easier to work with than the coated steel line you buy at the chain parts houses. You can also find pre-made lengths of gravel shield on Amazon to make the lines on the rear axle look completely original.

 

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=brake+line+gravel+guard&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

 

Then you just need a tubing bender. I've done some complete vehicles just using one like this: https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W704C-Tubing-Bender/dp/B0002KO2H0/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=brake+line+bender+tool&qid=1583678282&sr=8-15

 

For a few dollars more, you can go high tech on the bender with this: https://www.amazon.com/LORESO-Bender-Degrees-Bending-Aluminum/dp/B07S8DQBNL/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=brake+line+bender+tool&qid=1583678416&sr=8-11

I was unaware the gravel shields were available.  Those are still steel I assume?

 

The tuning bender probably makes super nice bends with the soft lines, I may have to get one and try it.  I just hand bend mine because it's so easy, just takes a little finesse to not kink them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Dzimm said:

I was unaware the gravel shields were available.  Those are still steel I assume?

 

 

Looks like a choice of mild steel or stainless.

 

Quote

The tuning bender probably makes super nice bends with the soft lines, I may have to get one and try it.  I just hand bend mine because it's so easy, just takes a little finesse to not kink them.

 

That's why I use the tubing bender. Many years ago I bought a set of the cheaper ones -- it has two sizes of "wheel" -- one for larger radii, the other for tighter radii. They work great with the cunifer brake line, making very clean, smooth bends.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm just throwing this in here for future readers. Also, apologies for all caps, but its warranted IMO:

 

GET THIS FLARE TOOL!!

 

Its worth its weight in gold. I redid the lines in my truck front to rear (including some extra stuff thats not worth mentioning here) and it was very frustrating trying to use the rental flare tool from Autozone or Orielleys. Turns out their die was drilled crooked which made all the flares fail every time. Only took me two days of pure hell to figure that one out. Succeeded in completing one connection in that time frame. Then, I purchased the tool above and knocked out the rest of the truck in an afternoon. It was amazing! So if you are doing more flare work that one or two here and there, do yourself the favor and purchase the Mastercool Hydraulic Flaring Tool.

 

BTW, I am not getting an kickbacks here, the tool is just that great.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

58 minutes ago, JustEmptyEveryPocket said:

I'm just throwing this in here for future readers. Also, apologies for all caps, but its warranted IMO:

 

GET THIS FLARE TOOL!!

 

Its worth its weight in gold. I redid the lines in my truck front to rear (including some extra stuff thats not worth mentioning here) and it was very frustrating trying to use the rental flare tool from Autozone or Orielleys. Turns out their die was drilled crooked which made all the flares fail every time. Only took me two days of pure hell to figure that one out. Succeeded in completing one connection in that time frame. Then, I purchased the tool above and knocked out the rest of the truck in an afternoon. It was amazing! So if you are doing more flare work that one or two here and there, do yourself the favor and purchase the Mastercool Hydraulic Flaring Tool.

 

BTW, I am not getting an kickbacks here, the tool is just that great.

Holy crap that's expensive.  I'm sure it's a good tool but you'd have to do a LOT of brake lines to get your moneys worth.

 

I've rented the cheap auto parts store ones a couple times, and ended up buying one of my own cause I was sick of renting it.  After fixing brake lines on quite a few vehicles as well as entirely replacing all brake lines on 3 Jeeps now, I have only had one failed flare.  If the instructions are followed on the cheap ones, and you take your time they work just fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Dzimm said:

you'd have to do a LOT of brake lines to get your moneys worth.

Not true. People always forget the cost of your time. I don't value myself very high, but lets call it $20 an hour. I can smack out fittings in 1/10 (not joking) the time to do it with the hand flaring tool. Over the course of my vehicle's worth of brake lines I paid for the tool. Not to mention the flares come out uniform and near perfect each time.

 

5 minutes ago, Dzimm said:

If the instructions are followed on the cheap ones, and you take your time they work just fine.

Usually this is true. However, I found the tools I rented had a misaligned die. Meaning the round, concave part around the 'stob' (sorry don't know a better descriptor here) was not centered. It caused every flare to crunch over to the side and be worthless. I tried four different tools from three different stores. They must all use the same C.R.A.P. manufacturers since they all had this same defect. I am sure this batch has been culled by now, but man the hassle and headache of driving back and forth and home and back and home and back and forth etc paid for the good tool all over again.

 

But then again, to each their own....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/9/2020 at 7:56 AM, 75sv1 said:

The Nickle Copper stuff is also called NiCop.  Bends easy. Look at 'Inline' flaring tools. They work better than the older designs. They make them in Inch and Metric.

 

I've never heard it called NiCop. Around here everyone calls it CuNiFer (Cu is copper, Ni is nickel, and Fer is iron)

 

To do a really pro job with either the cunifer or with auto parts mart steel lines when you buy the 25-foot coils, spend a few bucks to buy a tubing straightener as well as a good bender and a good flaring tool. The cunifer is softer than steel lines and you can do an "okay" job just bending it by hand, but for making the job look professional the straight runs should be ... well ... straight.

 

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=brake+line+tubing+straightener&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

in all honesty you don't have to flare anything if you really don't want too.  the auto stores will have pre-flared lines that all you have to do is bend them (be sure you're using the tool for that).  I did my first MJ that way.  I did my second with a roll of tube and a flaring tool and I'll probably do my next one from scratch too, but you don't have to.  :L: 

 

Just remember that you do not need to follow all the silly bends and routes that the factory took.  Just use your head and make sure you plan the route so nothing will snag or pinch the lines.  :D 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...