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TheBearken

10-Hole Wheel Restoration

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Hey Folks,

 

I've been on a quest for some OEM wheels for a minute, and have my heart set on a set of turbines. I recently came upon a Cherokee for sale that had 10-holes (my 2nd choice) along with a ton of interior and power goodies I'm coveting, and the deal was too good to pass up. I figured I could post my experience trying to refinish the wheels and maybe get some pointers along the way. 

 

to start, I dropped the wheels after fighting some seriously overtorqued bolts and hit them with soap/water and a scouring pad to get off the surface dirt

 

If I had more time and resources to dedicate, I would have had the tires removed, but since they're junk anyway, I'm just working around them the best I can

 

I used KleanStrip Premium Stripper to remove the existing coating. Stuff works within 10 minutes and paints on with a brush. I coated the entire surface with a thin layer.

 

After a few minutes you'll see the layers pealing up:

 

20190929_123436.jpg.37226f5f2bcc5437742464da4085b0ef.jpg

 

I used a plastic scraper to remove the gelled up coating. It melted off like nothing for most of the areas, here is half the wheel scraped:

 

20190929_123627.jpg.3ce410c2ae1f90364ead7462cbbc4036.jpg

 

After the first round, there are still a few spots needing hit again, so I applied more stripper and repeated the process. After that I hit it with a scouring pad and hose to get the residual goop off:

 

20190929_124347.jpg.35de1b6ce8070dd7c1cf9cd8a0564da9.jpg

 

At this point I know there's a decision to make about clearing up the damaged areas, and how far I want to go with the resulting finish. I ordered sanding pads for my orbital sander, a grinding/polishing wheel set, and some nylon pad-like attachments for my angle grinder. I started with the pads, which ended up working way better than I expected, and will most likely be where I end up.

Afterwards I tried using the polishing pads, since they are listed as going up to 2000 grit whereas the pads are supposedly 320. Those ended up leaving a lot of black marks, and since they were rigid, they were leaving erratic patterns.

 

Here is the wheel after going over it a few times with the scouring pads:

 

20190929_140139.jpg.0918340a409daed24bab810dc29a88aa.jpg

 

I'm still working on the finish before I clear coat them. While I think they look 100% better than before, what I didn't account for is how the machining grooves which run perfectly circular would interact with the sanding marks. I did my best to hold my grinder so that the wheel would sand along the plane of the marks, but as you can see, I'm not able to do that in the tighter spaces.

 

For cleaning up the holes, I just threw a small wire-wheel on the dremmel and it ran itself around each of them easy enough.

 

I'll add some more when I finish, currently my obstacles are getting the finish more consistent, getting to the area around the valve stem, and removing the micro debris that accumulated in the machining grooves on some of the rougher areas (mineral spirits, aluminium cleaner, soap/water, thinner, nothing has wanted to make it go away).

 

Let me know your thoughts or if anyone has some suggestions, thanks!

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I actually wouldn’t recoat with clear. I’m currently restoring my aluminum wheels, and I think that just keeping them straight aluminum will be easier to clean and re-polish if they get gunked up.

Before

e0d744f485a286e7904a360e7344db4e.jpg

After

1453c4474228105f500f237617e097bc.jpg

 

All done with Scotch-Brite, a drill with a polishing wheel, and time.

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

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8 minutes ago, Dammerung said:

I actually wouldn’t recoat with clear. I’m currently restoring my aluminum wheels, and I think that just keeping them straight aluminum will be easier to clean and re-polish if they get gunked up.

Before

e0d744f485a286e7904a360e7344db4e.jpg

After

1453c4474228105f500f237617e097bc.jpg

 

All done with Scotch-Brite, a drill with a polishing wheel, and time.

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Hot damn. Like I need to add another anal detail to my list. 

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3 hours ago, Dammerung said:

I actually wouldn’t recoat with clear. I’m currently restoring my aluminum wheels, and I think that just keeping them straight aluminum will be easier to clean and re-polish if they get gunked up.

Before

e0d744f485a286e7904a360e7344db4e.jpg

After

1453c4474228105f500f237617e097bc.jpg

 

All done with Scotch-Brite, a drill with a polishing wheel, and time.

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

 

That looks pretty damn good, what polish did you use, and how bad was the corrosion beforehand? I definitely wouldnt have been able to get by with just scotchbrites in some areas but I may be sold on skipping clear based on your results.

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  That looks pretty damn good, what polish did you use, and how bad was the corrosion beforehand? I definitely wouldnt have been able to get by with just scotchbrites in some areas but I may be sold on skipping clear based on your results.

 

I used mother’s mag and aluminum polish. My clear looked like garbage, but the aluminum underneath was mostly good, just some curb rash and deep scratches. Hardest part is getting the clear coat off. I used Jasco paint stripper and goof off graffiti remover, but I had to hit it about 5-8 times. The stripper also forced me to repaint the interior triangles for the wheels.

 

 I wouldn’t have even thought about doing this if my Dad hadn’t told me about it when he had his S10 rims done 20 years ago.

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

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