Cox Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 I've had a few electrical issues with the '90 eliminator I recently purchased, the relevant ones being that the hazards/brake lights were not working, the headlights couldn't be switched from high to low beams, and my left turn signal dash light would stay light when my running lights were on, but only when I wasn't signalling. Hazards/brakes turned out to be a fuze issue, and the headlight issue was from the sliding plastic piece that actuates the toggle switch was out of place. When I had my turn signal switch out of the way I notice this part (that I can't seem to identify) that was loose and cracked located right by the locking cylinder. When I inspected it, one of the arms broke off in my hand. My turn signal dash lights now work properly, but as he title reads my front driver's side blinker doesn't function at all anymore. The bulb isn't burnt, there isn't any corrosion or grease, and I'm not getting any power to the socket. Am I dealing with a bad socket? Did the part that I broke have something to do with it? I'm pretty new to all this as this is my first vehicle so any thoughts or advice are well appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 That’s the “hey dummy, you left your key in the ignition “ warning buzzer contact switch. Many people remove it without a problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cox Posted August 22, 2019 Author Share Posted August 22, 2019 Ah, thanks. It mustn't have been working to begin with then since it never buzzed for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 It should not affect your turn signal. Look at your fuse box. Do you have a blue or black box on the left side? If it is black, then the key buzzer was not active. See the eighth post in this thread: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cox Posted August 22, 2019 Author Share Posted August 22, 2019 Mine's blue. The headlight buzzer works fine, and I'm used to not having a key buzzer so I don't mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdog Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 Perform cruisers tips and check the front harness connector under the airbox on the left side. Stock 1988 swb 4.0 ax15 np 231. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMO413 Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 Check the ground tab in the socket. They like to rust off. If it's gone you need a new socket. Parts store should have one but it won't be listed for your truck. Mine said for an older Ford F150. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
13 Legion Posted August 23, 2019 Share Posted August 23, 2019 Had the same type issue. Turn signal would not illuminate when running lights were on. Would only illuminate when used as turn signal. I had a bad socket. The ground wire wasn’t making good contact inside the bulb socket. Swapped in new socket and soldered wires. Good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 23, 2019 Share Posted August 23, 2019 4 hours ago, jdog said: Perform cruisers tips and check the front harness connector under the airbox on the left side. Stock 1988 swb 4.0 ax15 np 231. CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS CONNECTOR AND RELAY/RECEPTACLE REFRESHING OCTOBER 30, 2015 SALAD 22 COMMENTS EDIT I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight. ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheapamanche Posted August 23, 2019 Share Posted August 23, 2019 7 hours ago, jdog said: Perform cruisers tips and check the front harness connector under the airbox on the left side. Stock 1988 swb 4.0 ax15 np 231. I missed this harness connector when cleaning what I thought was all of them. Thanks for this tip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheapamanche Posted August 23, 2019 Share Posted August 23, 2019 2 hours ago, cruiser54 said: CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS CONNECTOR AND RELAY/RECEPTACLE REFRESHING OCTOBER 30, 2015 SALAD 22 COMMENTS EDIT I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight. ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else. Thanks cruiser, I missed this one. This is probably why "sometimes" I have front blinker issues. I missed this one under my air box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88mancheman Posted August 25, 2019 Share Posted August 25, 2019 I agree with JMO413 & 13 legion , if the harness seems to check out look at the ground tab in the bulb socket it likes to rust & corrode away & cause issues like these, I had the exact same issue as you for 3 months till I bucked up and changed the socket and now I’ve had blinkers ever since Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88mancheman Posted August 25, 2019 Share Posted August 25, 2019 Here is a link to the sockets I used, I’ve used these on my 88 MJ, and a buddies 89 XJ https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-conduct-tite-3-wire-ford-signal-and-parking-lights-socket-84716/5473632-P?utm_source=ET&utm_medium=TRANS&utm_term=TRNSCT&utm_campaign=20181210_A_EC_TX_ORDSHP&utm_content=ITEMPart number for cross reference: Part No. 84716If you end up replacing the socket send me a pm and I can send you a diagram of which wires go to what to make it work properly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cox Posted August 28, 2019 Author Share Posted August 28, 2019 I can't seem to find that socket any where near me, and it's going to take a week to arrive if I order it. Are there any other readily available sockets that I could jury rig so that I can just get the thing working for the time being? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMO413 Posted August 28, 2019 Share Posted August 28, 2019 Where are you located? They are available from O'Reilly's, AutoZone, and Napa. They will be in the help section and listed to fit Ford. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cox Posted August 28, 2019 Author Share Posted August 28, 2019 St. Marys, Ontario; being Canadian seems to be my problem. I had been hoping to get this fixed before the 29th, but availability is really hampering me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cox Posted August 28, 2019 Author Share Posted August 28, 2019 Is there any reason why this socket wouldn't work? https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/IUNLS6485 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMO413 Posted August 28, 2019 Share Posted August 28, 2019 Looks like the ones I used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted August 28, 2019 Share Posted August 28, 2019 XJ socket!! They are metal and last a lot longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cox Posted August 28, 2019 Author Share Posted August 28, 2019 I found a socket off an XJ and wired it in, now my running lights work fine, but my flasher/hazard still doesn't work so the problem isn't the socket. Cruiser's comment said there was a ground under the airbox, but I have mine off and I can't see what he's referring too. I've cleaned up every other connection I can find but still no luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMO413 Posted August 28, 2019 Share Posted August 28, 2019 The only ground I know of on the drivers side is behind the surye box. This picture sucks but I'm pointing to the grounding point. Close up picture. Just have to ask, does it have the correct build in it? Just the drivers side doesn't blink? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted August 29, 2019 Share Posted August 29, 2019 That ground point looks dirty JMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMO413 Posted August 29, 2019 Share Posted August 29, 2019 6 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said: That ground point looks dirty JMO It's dust stuck to the OxGard. The joy of gravel roads! Under that is clean metal and clean contacts covered in OxGard. I used about half a large tube of OxGard when I refreshed and added grounds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cox Posted August 29, 2019 Author Share Posted August 29, 2019 Got it working! There was a loose connection between the two halves of the fuze box, with that tightened up and the new socket my four-ways and turn signal are functional again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMO413 Posted August 29, 2019 Share Posted August 29, 2019 3 minutes ago, Cox said: Got it working! There was a loose connection between the two halves of the fuze box, with that tightened up and the new socket my four-ways and turn signal are functional again! Good to hear! Glad you got it fixed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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