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fuel problem with my comanche


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Just picked up an 87 with 4.0, BA10/5sp 2wd shortbed and ive got a fuel problem.  Previous owner screwed up the wiring real bad, its a mess. When Key is on, I hear the pump running constantly.  When I press the brake, I hear the pitch of the fuel pump sound change, like its getting less power.  Ive got no pressure at the rail, And I don't have any fuel or even positive pressure coming from the supply hose before the filter.  Not sure if I have a bad pump or a wiring issue on my hands.  Possibly a fuel pressure regulator?  What is the test procedure for the Fuel pump/pressure regulator/ballast resistor?

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 7/24/2019 at 1:03 AM, basket case said:

Just picked up an 87 with 4.0, BA10/5sp 2wd shortbed and ive got a similar problem.  Previous owner screwed up the wiring real bad, its a mess. When Key is on, I hear the pump running constantly.  When I press the brake, I hear the pitch of the fuel pump sound change, like its getting less power.  Ive got no pressure at the rail, And I don't have any fuel or even positive pressure coming from the supply hose before the filter.  Not sure if I have a bad pump or a wiring issue on my hands.  Possibly a fuel pressure regulator?  What is the test procedure for the Fuel pump/pressure regulator/ballast resistor?

 

 

sounds like part of your issue could be a bad ground at the drivers side taillight.  the fuel pump and the brake lights ground to the same spot back there.

 

also I moved your topic to Tech so more eyes will see it. :L: 

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If the pimp is running and nothing is coming out before the fuel filter, the hose to the pump could be off or the tube is corroded or the sock is clogged  or...

 

When you pull the pump apply power to it to see if it's really pumping.

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Do this while you're at it.

 

IMPROVING THE FUEL PUMP GROUND

The fuel pump and fuel tank sending unit ground at a sheet metal screw up behind the spare tire on an XJ, XJ-Body-Ground.jpg?resize=300%2C162and behind the driver’s taillamp on an MJ.

Not only is a sheet metal screw a lousy way to ground things, this ground path is long and travels through some connectors that are prone to corrosion and moisture.

Locate the black wire on  the HARNESS side of the fuel pump/sender 3 wire connector. Remove a 6″ length of the split loom covering. Strip back about 1/2″ of insulation from the BLACK wire.1-fuel pump ground MJ

Take your new ground wire, preferably at least 14 gauge and 12 to 18 inches long as needed, strip it about 3/4″, and wrap it around the exposed part of the harness plug wire.1-fuel pump ground mj-002Solder the connection. Tape it up and reinstall the split loom covering.1-fuel pump ground mj-003

At the other end of your new ground wire, add a crimp on eyelet. Attach the eyelet under a bolt that goes directly into the chassis. Be sure to clean the attaching point til shiny and apply OxGard to the contact surfaces.1-fuel pump ground mj-004

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Thanks Crusier, that's a solid idea.  I pulled the tank and bench tested the pump and confirmed it is bad. I've got a new pump, pick up sock, and filter. I also found a handful of pinhole leaks in the tank. I have cleaned the tank up and washed it out, now I'm letting it sit out outside for a few days, trying to let it air out and get the fumes out of it. The plan is to put a couple tac welds over the pin holes. When my tank is sealed up and leak free, I'll install the new pump, add the new ground, and see if I've got good pressure at the rail. Once it's running on its own power, I'll start working my way through the rest of Cruisers mostly renix tips

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15 minutes ago, basket case said:

Thanks Crusier, that's a solid idea.  I pulled the tank and bench tested the pump and confirmed it is bad. I've got a new pump, pick up sock, and filter. I also found a handful of pinhole leaks in the tank. I have cleaned the tank up and washed it out, now I'm letting it sit out outside for a few days, trying to let it air out and get the fumes out of it. The plan is to put a couple tac welds over the pin holes. When my tank is sealed up and leak free, I'll install the new pump, add the new ground, and see if I've got good pressure at the rail. Once it's running on its own power, I'll start working my way through the rest of Cruisers mostly renix tips

  Save yourself the grief......and you'll likely burn through anyway.

 

 

https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/2237-05487211.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_content=DN&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&utm_term=1987-1992+Jeep+Comanche+Fuel+Tank+Spectra+Premium+JP5B+87-92+Jeep+Fuel+Tank+89+88&fp=pp&gbm=a&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhJrqBRDZARIsALhp1WSVNhEUsOaxbg1zZCbn3D-e-wP1pMfHzov2uyVCjT6WAI9QRyonu0QaAnyZEALw_wcB

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1 hour ago, basket case said:

Thanks Crusier, that's a solid idea.  I pulled the tank and bench tested the pump and confirmed it is bad. I've got a new pump, pick up sock, and filter. I also found a handful of pinhole leaks in the tank. I have cleaned the tank up and washed it out, now I'm letting it sit out outside for a few days, trying to let it air out and get the fumes out of it. The plan is to put a couple tac welds over the pin holes. When my tank is sealed up and leak free, I'll install the new pump, add the new ground, and see if I've got good pressure at the rail. Once it's running on its own power, I'll start working my way through the rest of Cruisers mostly renix tips

 

Just buy a tank.  If there's pinholes in it now, there will be more later.

 

EBay, Rockauto, etc all have them.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Fuel pressure numbers seem good allowing for a little slop in the gauge. Ideally would be 39psi at KEY ON and 31psi at IDLE. Maybe time for a secondary tune up. Plugs, wires, rotor and distributor cap.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Wanted to update the thread...

I ended up buying a new tank, pump, filter and sock. I added the extra ground and attached it to the fuel filter bracket. When it was all said and done, I still couldn't get the fuel pump to kick on. I tried applying 12v straight to the pump harness and I could get good pressure at the rail when I did that, but the pump wouldn't kick on when I was Key On. I tested voltage at the pump harness and was getting 0v at key off, 2.8v key on, and 1.8v cranking. I tested the fuel pump relay (I believe it is the middle relay of the 3) and it was good. I moved on to the starter relay. While messing with the rats nest of wires, I could hear the fuel pump kick on! I think the orange wire coming off the B+ terminal on the starter relay runs to the fuel pump and has a bad connection somewhere down the line.  I also believe my starter relay is bad because the previous owner bypassed it to put a push button starter in it, but I would like to know the proper way to test the unit. Does anyone know a testing procedure? I have the 4 post relay, the one with out the lead for the ballast resistor. 

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24 minutes ago, 87 Basket Case said:

I'm not a big fan of throwing parts at problem and hoping it fixes it. Fiatslug87 gave me the electrical diag manual for 1987, I found testing instructions incase anyone is interested

Screenshot_20190915-190421.png

 

 

OK, 

 

I sit here everyday I read the same post over and over and over.........same problems, over and over. 

 

By your own admission- You have a mess, you have a Basket Case. 

 

I didn't suggest you throw $2000 part at a $2 problem. 

 

If you want to drive the truck and you want the truck to be reliable.......at some point you need to start cleaning up the mess. 

It's a 32 year old relay.

 

 

Here is mine, NOS Mopar, IIRC I paid something like $13 for it on ebay. 

 

qbct4uG.jpg

 

 

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