Driver e-fan

[Wounded_Fighter]

Does c307 or c222 switch efan on/off?

I see 307 reads to the dash cluster but can't trace 222 to anything in diagrams. Trying to find which one might have gone bad on me since my efan isn't kicking over 190 anymore.

 

Thoughts? 

[Ωhm]

10 minutes ago, Wounded_Fighter said:

Does c307 or c222 switch efan on/off?

No

 

Should be C243. Lower radiator.

[Wounded_Fighter]

4 hours ago, Ωhm said:

No

 

Should be C243. Lower radiator.

Got one to replace it tomorrow. Will update when tested.

Thanks for that.

[Wounded_Fighter]

Switched out rad switch with sw594 from az, problem still persists.

Jumped wires at the connection, it turns the fan on for sure.

[Ωhm]

WELLS spec sheet: Normally Open Circuit; Closes at 198°F  ±9°F.

[Wounded_Fighter]

36 minutes ago, Ωhm said:

WELLS spec sheet: Normally Open Circuit; Closes at 198°F  ±9°F.

Tested to 220f on dash, didn't flip. 

[Jeep Driver]

If you want it to work.........

 

Get the switch out of the radiator, wire it independently. 

 

You have a choice, you can take control of your problem -or- you can continue to fight with archaic crap and subpar aftermarket garbage.

 

 

[Wounded_Fighter]

48 minutes ago, Jeep Driver said:

If you want it to work.........

 

Get the switch out of the radiator, wire it independently. 

 

You have a choice, you can take control of your problem -or- you can continue to fight with archaic crap and subpar aftermarket garbage.

 

 

Oh no, don't get me wrong, I did the switch on a wire bit, with 2stands of 12ga, cause I gotta get to work. But I'd like to have it done "Right"

[Pete M]

have you tried dipping the sensor in boiling water to see if it works?

[Wounded_Fighter]

2 hours ago, Pete M said:

have you tried dipping the sensor in boiling water to see if it works?

Thought of it, haven't done it yet.

That would indicate a clogged radiator wouldn't it?

[Ωhm]

Add possible lower radiator hose collapsing. Give it a squeeze.

[Wounded_Fighter]

15 hours ago, Ωhm said:

Add possible lower radiator hose collapsing. Give it a squeeze.

She's already newer. 5 months I think. Found a hole in the old one

[JMO413]

Mine doesn't kick on until the gauge stays at 210. This switch is reading radiator temp not engine temp like the gauge. 

[Wounded_Fighter]

5 hours ago, JMO413 said:

Mine doesn't kick on until the gauge stays at 210. This switch is reading radiator temp not engine temp like the gauge. 

Normally it's been kicking before the 210 mark, around what I guess is 195-200

[JMO413]

7 hours ago, Wounded_Fighter said:

Normally it's been kicking before the 210 mark, around what I guess is 195-200

I would guess it's working as designed then.

[Wounded_Fighter]

2 hours ago, JMO413 said:

I would guess it's working as designed then.

That's "normally" though, of recent its quit even trying. Had it up to 260, in the rain, on the highway..

when it was working highway temp without rain was around 180-190 constant. 

[Ωhm]

Isolate the Radiator Temperature Switch. Disconnect switch. On the component side, run Fused B+ to a bulb, then to C243_B. Ground C243_A. Place bulb in a location where you can see it. Determine if Radiator Temperature Switch ever switches. Could determine which side of this issue is giving you your grief.

[Eagle]

21 hours ago, Wounded_Fighter said:

She's already newer. 5 months I think. Found a hole in the old one

 

But does the new one have the spring in it to prevent collapse?

[Eagle]

1 hour ago, Wounded_Fighter said:

That's "normally" though, of recent its quit even trying. Had it up to 260, in the rain, on the highway..

when it was working highway temp without rain was around 180-190 constant. 

 

You need a radiator. In rain, on the highway, you should never need the aux fan.

[Wounded_Fighter]

5 hours ago, Eagle said:

 

But does the new one have the spring in it to prevent collapse?

True. I think it's just the reinforced rubber one, no spring.

[Eagle]

In the past, it has been proven conclusively that at highway speeds the lower hoses collapse if they don't have the spring in them.

[87MJTIM]

 

I've been watching with interest.  I thought it was time I joined in.

 

My e-fan does not turn on when the temp rises above 215F.  It only gets hot when idling or stop-n-go driving.  Highway driving it runs ~200F

 

I know the fan works.  When I turn on AC, the fan runs.  I have tested the wiring for the fan.  With KOEO, I jump the relay - 30 to 87 - and the fan turns on.  I know the relay is good, because the AC kicks on the fan.

 

I unplug the coolant temp switch and jump the harness side wires and the fans turns on.  So, all the wiring from the coolant temp fan switch back works as the factory intended.

 

I am guessing that the switch is bad.  However, it is "relatively" new.  I replaced it less than two years ago because the old one wasn't turning on the fan (parts cannon).  Both radiator hoses were replaced at the same time.

 

I am considering changing the radiator.  It's approx 20 years old.  (Still running closed system.  Possible switch to open system.)

[cruiser54]

6 minutes ago, 87MJTIM said:

 

I've been watching with interest.  I thought it was time I joined in.

 

My e-fan does not turn on when the temp rises above 215F.  It only gets hot when idling or stop-n-go driving.  Highway driving it runs ~200F

 

I know the fan works.  When I turn on AC, the fan runs.  I have tested the wiring for the fan.  With KOEO, I jump the relay - 30 to 87 - and the fan turns on.  I know the relay is good, because the AC kicks on the fan.

 

I unplug the coolant temp switch and jump the harness side wires and the fans turns on.  So, all the wiring from the coolant temp fan switch back works as the factory intended.

 

I am guessing that the switch is bad.  However, it is "relatively" new.  I replaced it less than two years ago because the old one wasn't turning on the fan (parts cannon).  Both radiator hoses were replaced at the same time.

 

I am considering changing the radiator.  It's approx 20 years old.  (Still running closed system.  Possible switch to open system.)

Do it. Open system. Napa NR2802 radiator. Has provision for temp switch. 

 

Don't worry about springs in hoses. They were there so the cooling system could be filled using a vacuum at the factory. 

 

You guys with 20 year old radiators and running 260* need to replace them. 

[87MJTIM]

Thanks Cruiser.

 

I was looking at that radiator.  I was also looking at:

 

this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CSQZ78X/?coliid=I3AYJVTE1SCNLV&colid=3QJUU79LEEST7&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

or this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C7S062/?coliid=I275C4Z7OZB8R7&colid=3QJUU79LEEST7&psc=1

[WahooSteeler]

2 hours ago, 87MJTIM said:

Thanks Cruiser.

 

I was looking at that radiator.  I was also looking at:

 

this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CSQZ78X/?coliid=I3AYJVTE1SCNLV&colid=3QJUU79LEEST7&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

or this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C7S062/?coliid=I275C4Z7OZB8R7&colid=3QJUU79LEEST7&psc=1

 

Tim, I just converted to open 2 weeks ago after constant battles with air in the system and overheating on the highway. It had recently sprung a small leak somewhere as evidenced by a mist of coolant all over the engine bay but I could not find the source. It finally revealed itself on another overheat situation as the hole must have gotten bigger, coolant was coming out of the top of the radiator at a heavy rate.

 

I'm the type that will over-analyze something so I researched it seems like every radiator out there. I also looked at the NR2802 from Napa and called to see if it was a 1 row or 2 row unit. I was committed to getting a 2 row radiator but they did not have the info and connected me straight to Spectra where I was put on hold for 10 mins before going to a customer service voicemail. I left my callback info but have yet to get a call. Anyhoo, through it all I concluded a couple of things with some insightful advice from Cruiser. First, I'm pretty sure Spectra makes 90% of the replacement radiators out there LOL. When I went to Spectra's website, there are only 2 choices for radiators for 91-01 Comanches/Cherokees, CU1193 and 2340 which is the right hand drive model. The specs listed it as a 1 row unit. I also found one of the Napa's on eBay and it listed an interchange part# as the 1193, confirming that it is a 1 row unit. So the only difference in this unit no matter the store brand name on it is the price, ranging from $67 to $180+. The second conclusion I came to with Cruiser's input was the usage my truck gets did not require a super heavy duty setup. I don't wheel it, it was a DD for my son who is now heading off to college without the truck, a trash and yard truck with occasional towing. Plus, my budget was tight so the Spectra made sense. Ideally I would have preferred to get a CSF copper/brass vs the aluminum/plastic but those units also don't have the e-fan temp sensor bung and I wanted the install to be plug and play. I logged on to my Advance Auto account and got a 25% discount, so I got my radiator from there as a Carquest branded unit for a net price of $84. I thought about just getting it from Amazon for $67 but then if I had a warranty claim, it would be much easier to just walk in to Advance than dealing with Amazon and shipping etc.  

 

Install was really easy and the truck is running a steady temp well below 210 regardless of the terrain or outside temp. And of course it was as easy as it gets to burp the air out. I will say though, I'm pretty impressed that it was my original copper brass unit I pulled out, 31yrs old and 226k miles! Last thing to add, I stole rokkin's idea and repurposed my expansion bottle for my overflow bottle. 3/4" hose stub on the bottom of the tank, nylon 1/2" threaded base with 1/4" hose barb from Lowes on the end fits perfect. At "full" hot it overflowed a little out of the upper hose barb so I think the capacity is just a little shy of the standard open system tank but I think it will be fine.