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found a list of junkyard upgrades :)


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Original list is here:  https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/budget-builds-what-junkyard-parts-will-fit-xj-847303/

 

it's an XJ list, so keep that in mind. :D  

 

Suspension & Lift: 
-Front End: 
1.ZJ V8 Upcountry Coils = 1-1.5" lift
2.F-150/Bronco Coils ('70s-ish) = 4-4.5" lift
3.Camaro Spring Isolators = 1.5" lift
4.ZJ spring isolators = stronger, metal core, can be stacked
5.Thunderbird Front Coils ('83-97) = 3-4" lift (varies in lift and softness by year and trim package), will need top plate from strut too
6.TJ Lift Coils (front only) = provide 1" less lift on an XJ than on a TJ
-Rear End: 
1.Bastard Pack: Any 2.5" wide leaf spring can be used between to make a bastard pack (they may differ in stiffness and lift) i.e. S10, Dakota
2.MJ Shackles = 1/2" lift
3.GM fullsize pickup shackles ('95-99) = 1.5" lift, better shackle angle
-Misc: 
1.JK shocks = slight mod to fit 2-4" lift (must be from JK Rubicon, BPEs are not required, you need to press out the metal sleeves from the JK shocks, and insert the XJ stock bar pins to the axle-side part of the front shocks, and the body-side of the rear shocks.)
2.S10 Shocks (Rear only) = good for the lift you will get when you do a bastard pack
3.Ford Exploder rear sway-bar links = may be good for 3-4" lift
4.WJ rear sway bar end-links = minor fab to fit 3-4" lift
5.WJ LCA's = more tire clearance (some grinding required)
6.WJ rear LCA's = replace XJ front LCA's, 2" longer to accommodate a lift, some grinding required
7.V8 ZJ front sway-bar
8.JK rear UCA = use as XJ LCA, its about 1-2" longer
9.Ford Bronco II (that's the little one like a ranger) Front Swaybar = good for 3-4" lift

Brakes: 
-Booster, MC, etc: 
1.WJ brake booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve
2.ZJ brake booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve = may need for disc conversion
3.XJ '95+ brake booster and master cylinder = dual diaphragm, larger bore
4.WJ Rotors/Calipers = bigger brakes and more stopping power (will fit 15" rims)
5.KJ disc brake set-ups can be used for a conversion on your XJ axle
-Lines: 
1.YJ Brake Lines = 3-4" longer
2.Dakota Rear Softlines ('87-96) = 6" longer
3.GM C/K1500 Front Softlines ('90-95) = 6" longer
4.Dodge Ram Van Brake Lines = 10-12" longer (for big lifts), some dispute
5.5.JK Front Brake Lines = bolt-in and long (can max out 12" shocks and still have slack)

Axles: 
-Bolt-in Swap: 
1.XJ C8.25 Rear ('97+) = bolt in and upgrades to 29 spline (strength comparable to D44)
2.XJ D44 Rear = found in some but not all '87-'89 XJ's with Towing Package
3.XJ D30 Front = ('95-'99) non-disconnect, larger u-joints, high pinion
4.XJ I-4 & some V6 = may have 3.73, 4.10, or 4.56 gears may have vacuum discos
-Moderate Fab to Fit: 
1.Ford 8.8 inch Rear ('97+) = need spring & shock mounts (3.55, 3.73, or 4.10, maybe LSD, Disc Brakes)
2.MJ D44 Rear = need new spring perches and shock mounts
3.MJ AMC 20 Rear = need spring perches and shock mounts
4.Ford HP44/9" Combo = full width, more intense fab
-Misc: 
1.Lincoln Lockers = welded spider gears, operates like a spool, must be a GOOD welder
2.G80 LSD locker from '90s Turbo Volvo with D30 rear for XJ front D30 (beware with larger tires)
3.Homebrew posi-locks for '84-90 vacuum disconnect D30s, eliminates vacuum actuation
4. ZJ D30 CV shafts can be used in place of XJ u-joint shafts in '92+ D30's

Steering: 
1.ZJ V8 Tierods = beefier & bolt in
2.WJ Knuckles/Tierods/Draglinks = beefier and crossover steering
3.Durango Steering Box = beefier
4.GM 2wd fullsize truck steering box = beefy, helps for wb stretch
5.Astro Van steering box = good for long wb stretch
6.ZJ pitman arm = 1 inch drop over stock
7.WJ power steering pump (fits '96+, plug return hole, and use XJ pulley)


Engine: 
-Performance: 
1.Newer XJ intakes (may require some modification)
2.Mustang 5.0 Injectors = near bolt in (have 4 holes instead of 1, more fuel, better spray)
3.Dodge Neon Injectors = better throttle response
4. Stroker Motor......SEARCH
-Alternator: 
1.Mopar 136Amp Alternator, bolt it (slight grinding required) found in: 97-98 Dodge Full Size Van, 97-1998 Dodge Dakota, 97-98 Dodge Durango, 97-98 Dodge Ram, 97-98Jeep Grand Cherokee
2. Dakota (2.5L I-4) Alternator = bolt in, upgrades to 117A
-Cooling: 
1.Ford Electric Fan ('90-95 3.8L Taurus, '87-93 5.0L Mustang) = replaces mechanical fan, more cooling (8C607)
2.Hoodvents (i.e. Lebaron, Laser, Turbo Thunderbird etc.) = help keep ur 4.0 cool at low speeds
3.You can convert the closed system to open without replacing your radiator by using the fill cap from a 4.7 durango or dakota, cutting it into your upper hose, and replace your bottle with an MJ overflow tank or any that fit. Then cap off or eliminate the T'ed lines in the heater core.
-Swaps: 
1.For '84-'86 XJ with 2.8L GM V6 only! you can swap in any 60* GM V6 engine, they use the same motor mounts and bellhousings, engine options include 3.1L, and 3.4L etc, but DOES NOT INCLUDE 90* GM V6 engines such as the 4.3L!!! this swap will allow you to gain horsepower, torque, and fuel injection

Transmission: 
1.ZJ and WJ stock tranny coolers with stacked plates (even an upgrade for us with the stock fin style)
2.'94+ V6 Dakota AX-15 = bolt in (but must use XJ bellhousing), good upgrade from AX-5
3. Renix Transmission (swap electric speedo to t-case)

Transfer Case: 
1.'89+ AX-15 5spd crossmembers give 3/4 inch t-case drop on autos with no loss in ground clearance
2.Homebrew Slip Yoke Eliminator (use search function)
3.NV241-OR (from TJ Rubicon only) = near bolt in, 4:1 low range
4.Doubler Options : NP231/NP231, NP231/D300

Body/Exterior/Armor: 
1.XJ '97+ doors onto older cherokees = one piece windows and better mirrors
2.’97+ mirrors are direct bolt in to older XJ's and allow you to fold them in on tight trails.
3.GM power antennas replace your broken XJ's with little modification
4.'96-00 Ford Explorer hatch shocks = lift your hatch about 3" lower but are beef (ever see one that doesn't work?) need modification for '97+
5.TJ Fender Flares (front and rear or rear all the way around)
6.Wheels from XJ, ZJ, TJ, YJ, Explorer, Magnum Steelies (17x7) (any with 5x4.5 bolt pattern) will fit....CJ, WJ, WK, KK, JK, Full-Size Ford 5 bolt rims will NOT fit
7.OEM swing-out tire carriers, get the bumper with it, found mainly on '84-'90 XJ's
8.ZJ skid plates = require slight modification, but can be made to work
9.OEM skid plates (Front, Tranny, T-case, gas tank, found on "up-country" package XJ's not the same as a Country Edition)
10.YJ/TJ Mirrors = bigger, fold in, look cool
11. Ford Windstar Hatch Struts = lift high and strong
12. Bronco II swing out tire carrier - slight mod to fit via S10 Shackles (see post 418 orhttp://i51.tinypic.com/2uhpso4.jpg)

Interior: 
1.MJ/2 Door XJ Bucket seats = tilt forward, near bolt in
2.XJ overhead console = most commonly found in '00-01 or higher trim level, provides space for switches etc.
3.'97+ center console = can be made to fit '96 and older, gives you cupholders
4.Grand Cherokee center console lid = sits higher, but gives rear passengers cupholders
5.ZJ and WJ Seats - get brackets too, may require some drilling but gives you leather :-)
6. ZJ shift knob, direct replacement for XJ knob

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Tons of great information here! I remember WAY back finding an ancient thread with most of this and then putting together a laundry list for salvage yards. 

 

PSA: Don’t use F150 coils in your XJs/MJs, kids. They ride and flex like garbage. :scholar:

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43 minutes ago, Pete M said:

well, XJ leafs will lower an MJ. :L:  (I would retain that main leaf though)

Do you happen to know what height drops can be achieved with switching the MJ main to an XJ pack?  The yards around here want too much for a set of springs for me to just toy around with.  

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that's a tough question to answer since it would vary wildly depending on spring sag.  MJs are spring-under and so the leafs have plenty of arch.  XJs are spring-over and so their leafs are more or less flat.  tired XJ examples can actually be inverted a bit.  :(  If I remember right, MJ leafs can give about 3" of lift to an XJ, so I guess the reverse would drop the MJ by the same. :dunno: 

 

Rangers are spring-over.  I wonder how flat their packs are...

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57 minutes ago, Dzimm said:

Do you happen to know what height drops can be achieved with switching the MJ main to an XJ pack?  The yards around here want too much for a set of springs for me to just toy around with.  

Iowa junk yard are crazy expensive compared to the prices I see everyone taking about on here. I wish there was a pull a part around here. All of them near me want to pull the parts and charge a fortune.

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28 minutes ago, Pete M said:

that's a tough question to answer since it would vary wildly depending on spring sag.  MJs are spring-under and so the leafs have plenty of arch.  XJs are spring-over and so their leafs are more or less flat.  tired XJ examples can actually be inverted a bit.  :(  If I remember right, MJ leafs can give about 3" of lift to an XJ, so I guess the reverse would drop the MJ by the same. :dunno: 

 

Rangers are spring-over.  I wonder how flat their packs are...

Yeah my old 98 XJ springs were inverted when I changed them out.  Those actually fell apart after they were removed so they got junked.  That's some good logic I suppose for the 3" going the other way.  

 

That's kind of what I was wondering, if there was other vehicles that would lower it that I could keep an eye out for.

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3 minutes ago, JMO413 said:

Iowa junk yard are crazy expensive compared to the prices I see everyone taking about on here. I wish there was a pull a part around here. All of them near me want to pull the parts and charge a fortune.

Yeah I only know of one junk yard that is a you pull around here and it's in Des Moines.  I've never actually gone there but if you call, they only have a vague idea of what vehicles they have.  If they do know they have the vehicle, they couldn't even tell you if it had an engine in it still and forget about them going to check for you.  That's been my experience with them anyway.   Most yards seem to crush regularly now too, so they don't hold much for inventory.

 

Cheapest I can find an XJ leaf is $65.  That means $130 for a set of rusty and sagged springs.. no thanks.

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as long as you retain your current mains, most anything can be used. :L:   you just need to look for flat leafs that are the same width (2.5"?).  As long as they are in decent shape, I bet you can mix and match with your current set and get what you want.  :beerchug:  keep in mind that not all leafs have the same diameter center pin, so youmay need to drill them out to match (for example I know that explorers are slightly larger so I drilled out my 90's mains to match).

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 2/10/2019 at 12:22 AM, JMO413 said:

Thanks for bringing this one back up Pete. There a ton of good info there 👍

 

Unfortunately, there are also several errors. The list is an interesting starting point but, as Ronald Reagan said, 'Trust but verify." For example:

 

Quote

Axles: 
-Bolt-in Swap: 
1.XJ C8.25 Rear ('97+) = bolt in and upgrades to 29 spline (strength comparable to D44)
2.XJ D44 Rear = found in some but not all '87-'89 XJ's with Towing Package

 

As I hope everyone knows, XJ rear axles are NOT bolt-in swaps for an MJ. The spring percehes have to be relocated -- even if using them to change to spring-over, the center-to-center spacing is wrong.

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As I hope everyone knows, XJ rear axles are NOT bolt-in swaps for an MJ. The spring percehes have to be relocated -- even if using them to change to spring-over, the center-to-center spacing is wrong.

The first post says that the list is for XJs so keep that in mind. The 8.25 would be a direct swap for them.


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9 hours ago, SatiricalHen said:

Used the zj pitman arm on my xj today4c9f10191dd609b87137c9452a677934.jpg


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Oh very nice, how big is the difference in lower section draglink bolts too? I can definitely see the steeper angle form ZJ pitman arm.

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1 hour ago, Pete M said:

I assume that drop pitman has been combined with a drop trackbar bracket?

That is kinda what I was wondering too or maybe draglink could maybe be installed on top of pitman to keep angles the same-ish??

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  • 3 weeks later...

Pretty minor on the list, but I had a '91 XJ that I kept through 2007 and 195k miles.  After the 2nd or 3rd shift knob replacement (PVC between metal insert and outer cover disintegrates), I just filled the space between the cover and the insert with 5-minute epoxy.  That generally fixed it with no further replacement needed.

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