Flat tow 91 Comanche 5 speed 4x4?

[Slynn1981]

How do I do this??? Been searching online and cannot figure it out. Newbie=need help.

[yxmj]

How far are you towing it?

[Slynn1981]

.

[Slynn1981]

.

[Eagle]

???

 

What did you figure out? For the older XJs and MJs, flat towing meant removing the driveshafts because the transfer case doesn't have a true neutral. I don't remember when Jeep finally fixed that, but I think it was after the demise of the MJ.

[DesertRat1991]

Here is what the '91 Owners Manual has to say:

 

[Slynn1981]

Thank you DesertRat1991. Appreciated.

[cruiser54]

Perfect.

 

I don't seem to remember any "not true neutral" from my days as Service Manager at the dealership. 

 

What is that? 

[Eagle]

2 hours ago, cruiser54 said:

Perfect.

 

I don't seem to remember any "not true neutral" from my days as Service Manager at the dealership. 

 

What is that? 

 

By "not a true neutral," I am referring to the fact that the earlier year 231 and 242 (and I guess the 207, as well) transfer cases have a neutral position that disengages the transfer case from the transmission, but leaves the front and rear outputs locked. The result is that, if flat towed, the engine doesn't turn but the front and rear axles are connected and act like they're in 4WD.

 

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/true-neutral-plate-1076065/

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHM2DzjLOvg

 

[cruiser54]

But it's only an issue if you have a locker, correct? 

[MeanLemons]

It has to do with the vacuum actuated transfer cases. 

 

Those transfer cases doesnt have a true neutral. When they eliminated the vacuum system from the transfer cases in 91. It had true neutrals

[Eagle]

26 minutes ago, cruiser54 said:

But it's only an issue if you have a locker, correct? 

 

I would guess it's not a big issue if both diffs are open. Since everything I own (except one '88 MJ that I haven't started working on yet) has a limited slip, I would expect issues if flat towing.

[cruiser54]

10 hours ago, Eagle said:

 

I would guess it's not a big issue if both diffs are open. Since everything I own (except one '88 MJ that I haven't started working on yet) has a limited slip, I would expect issues if flat towing.

 

 

I just checked an 88 Owner's Manual.

 

Same procedure as 91 and later. Being as there is no mention of the vehicle having a limited slip, or any cautions, I'd say you're good to go. 

[87MJTIM]

12 hours ago, MeanLemons said:

It has to do with the vacuum actuated transfer cases. 

 

Those transfer cases doesnt have a true neutral. When they eliminated the vacuum system from the transfer cases in 91. It had true neutrals

 

So, if I have a tcase from a 93, do I have "true neutral"?

[MeanLemons]

21 minutes ago, 87MJTIM said:

 

So, if I have a tcase from a 93, do I have "true neutral"?

Yes 

[MeanLemons]

21 minutes ago, 87MJTIM said:

 

So, if I have a tcase from a 93, do I have "true neutral"?

As long as it’s not from a YJ because they still used the CAD until 95

[87MJTIM]

40 minutes ago, MeanLemons said:

As long as it’s not from a YJ because they still used the CAD until 95

 

93 XJ non-CAD D30

[jpdriver1]

ok, how about us that have put solid axles in the d30 and don't use the vacuum disconnect system? 

[gogmorgo]

I was thinking about this thread today for some reason. With a CAD axle it wouldn't much matter not having a "true neutral". Doesn't matter where you stick the lever, engine off means no vacuum means no 4x4. Any necessary slip in the drivetrain to accommodate corners would be taken up by the inner axle.

I can't imagine a rear limited slip diff or locker causing any more issues than it would under normal driving. I can't really see the front being that big a deal either with a functioning CAD, although an auto-locker might get interesting if it acts like the rear axle is driving it... You'd need a seriously high torque bias in your LSD to cause problems.

If you've permanently locked in or otherwise got rid of the CAD, and you don't have "true neutral", it's probably not quite so bad as driving in 4x4 on pavement, given the front tires will be scrubbing sideways a bit around corners anyhow so you've already introduced some slip there. But it's probably not a great idea. 

 

I realise you lot are probably more on the ball with this stuff than the typical individual, but I've worked in and around campgrounds for long enough to have seen and heard too many horror stories about flat-towed cars behind RVs to be a big fan. Dragging cars around in park or with flat tires until the wheels come off, manuals bouncing into gear and shredding engines, etc. If it's only the occasional short trip sure, but if it's a regular thing or seriously long distance, a trailer isn't that significant an expense compared to most of the vehicles that would be towing them, especially if you factor in fuel. 

[Pete M]

If I remember right from a previous thread, one key concern was oiling inside the t-case.  aka, if the engine powers everything, the oil is picked up and flung around like normal, but if the rear driveshaft powers things from the towing, then maybe not.