Slynn1981 Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 How do I do this??? Been searching online and cannot figure it out. Newbie=need help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 How far are you towing it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slynn1981 Posted December 18, 2018 Author Share Posted December 18, 2018 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slynn1981 Posted December 18, 2018 Author Share Posted December 18, 2018 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted December 19, 2018 Share Posted December 19, 2018 ??? What did you figure out? For the older XJs and MJs, flat towing meant removing the driveshafts because the transfer case doesn't have a true neutral. I don't remember when Jeep finally fixed that, but I think it was after the demise of the MJ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DesertRat1991 Posted December 19, 2018 Share Posted December 19, 2018 Here is what the '91 Owners Manual has to say: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slynn1981 Posted December 19, 2018 Author Share Posted December 19, 2018 Thank you DesertRat1991. Appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted December 20, 2018 Share Posted December 20, 2018 Perfect. I don't seem to remember any "not true neutral" from my days as Service Manager at the dealership. What is that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted December 20, 2018 Share Posted December 20, 2018 2 hours ago, cruiser54 said: Perfect. I don't seem to remember any "not true neutral" from my days as Service Manager at the dealership. What is that? By "not a true neutral," I am referring to the fact that the earlier year 231 and 242 (and I guess the 207, as well) transfer cases have a neutral position that disengages the transfer case from the transmission, but leaves the front and rear outputs locked. The result is that, if flat towed, the engine doesn't turn but the front and rear axles are connected and act like they're in 4WD. https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/true-neutral-plate-1076065/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHM2DzjLOvg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 But it's only an issue if you have a locker, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MeanLemons Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 It has to do with the vacuum actuated transfer cases. Those transfer cases doesnt have a true neutral. When they eliminated the vacuum system from the transfer cases in 91. It had true neutrals Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 26 minutes ago, cruiser54 said: But it's only an issue if you have a locker, correct? I would guess it's not a big issue if both diffs are open. Since everything I own (except one '88 MJ that I haven't started working on yet) has a limited slip, I would expect issues if flat towing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 10 hours ago, Eagle said: I would guess it's not a big issue if both diffs are open. Since everything I own (except one '88 MJ that I haven't started working on yet) has a limited slip, I would expect issues if flat towing. I just checked an 88 Owner's Manual. Same procedure as 91 and later. Being as there is no mention of the vehicle having a limited slip, or any cautions, I'd say you're good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 12 hours ago, MeanLemons said: It has to do with the vacuum actuated transfer cases. Those transfer cases doesnt have a true neutral. When they eliminated the vacuum system from the transfer cases in 91. It had true neutrals So, if I have a tcase from a 93, do I have "true neutral"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MeanLemons Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 21 minutes ago, 87MJTIM said: So, if I have a tcase from a 93, do I have "true neutral"? Yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MeanLemons Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 21 minutes ago, 87MJTIM said: So, if I have a tcase from a 93, do I have "true neutral"? As long as it’s not from a YJ because they still used the CAD until 95 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 40 minutes ago, MeanLemons said: As long as it’s not from a YJ because they still used the CAD until 95 93 XJ non-CAD D30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpdriver1 Posted December 22, 2018 Share Posted December 22, 2018 ok, how about us that have put solid axles in the d30 and don't use the vacuum disconnect system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted December 28, 2018 Share Posted December 28, 2018 I was thinking about this thread today for some reason. With a CAD axle it wouldn't much matter not having a "true neutral". Doesn't matter where you stick the lever, engine off means no vacuum means no 4x4. Any necessary slip in the drivetrain to accommodate corners would be taken up by the inner axle. I can't imagine a rear limited slip diff or locker causing any more issues than it would under normal driving. I can't really see the front being that big a deal either with a functioning CAD, although an auto-locker might get interesting if it acts like the rear axle is driving it... You'd need a seriously high torque bias in your LSD to cause problems. If you've permanently locked in or otherwise got rid of the CAD, and you don't have "true neutral", it's probably not quite so bad as driving in 4x4 on pavement, given the front tires will be scrubbing sideways a bit around corners anyhow so you've already introduced some slip there. But it's probably not a great idea. I realise you lot are probably more on the ball with this stuff than the typical individual, but I've worked in and around campgrounds for long enough to have seen and heard too many horror stories about flat-towed cars behind RVs to be a big fan. Dragging cars around in park or with flat tires until the wheels come off, manuals bouncing into gear and shredding engines, etc. If it's only the occasional short trip sure, but if it's a regular thing or seriously long distance, a trailer isn't that significant an expense compared to most of the vehicles that would be towing them, especially if you factor in fuel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 28, 2018 Share Posted December 28, 2018 If I remember right from a previous thread, one key concern was oiling inside the t-case. aka, if the engine powers everything, the oil is picked up and flung around like normal, but if the rear driveshaft powers things from the towing, then maybe not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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