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Dual OEM Aux Fan Installation, Part 2...An alternative.


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I decided when rebuilding my ’92 MJ I wanted to have a similar set up to Hornbrod using OEM parts. I got to thinking…and remembered the RHD XJ model fan set up in opposite the LHD, meaning the efan is on the passenger side and the clutch fan on the driver side. I took a chance and ordered a Mopar RHD efan. Sure enough the fan/ motor assembly is the identical part number as the LHD model, only the shroud is different. The RHD variant allowed me to mount the efan with only one modification to the upper radiator support -- drilling a mounting hole. 

 

Below are photos of the RHD Mopar efan:

 

e1.jpg

 

e2.jpg

 

And as it would be installed. On the bottom side of the radiator I carved out a simple plate that mounts to the original efan/ fan shroud radiator tabs that the 2 fans can drop into.

 

dual.jpg

 

Instead of using a SPAL controller, I went with a hard-wired switch to the Renix temperature switch opening in the radiator. HO radiators already have the Renix provision in place, it’s just a matter of removing the plug. After much internet research, I went with a Facet temperature switch# 7.5007. This is from a Peugeot 205 1.9L Cooling Fan Switch (on @ 189*/off @ 170*). This was a direct fit for the Renix radiator switch hole.

 

wiring.JPG

 

switch.JPG

 

I used Bosch relay# 12631710726 which is a 5-pin relay with diode (for primary efan to temp switch wiring). This relay has a diode within. The diode absorbs the high voltage spike created by the collapsed magnetic field on de-energization of the coil.

 

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Nice job G - I like it. I never thought of using a LHD aux fan when I did mine years ago, I like your setup a lot better. Less work, looks cleaner, and fits better. I'm curious as to why you didn't use the Spal two-speed controller for the additional fan. Mine has been working great and the 2nd fan only comes on at HI speed when stuck in traffic on the hottest summer days. Guessing you went with the external relay setup instead of the Spal controller because of the better current carrying capability?

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Yep, basically simplicity. I do like what the spal can do, but I wanted to both keep it simple and have it look/ be more OEM-ish. And I think this set up is along the lines of what Jeep would have done with the dual efan set up back in ‘92. 

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On 8/10/2018 at 12:48 PM, Gjeep said:

I took a chance and ordered a Mopar RHD efan. 

 

Thank you very much for posting this.  I was considering a similar setup for my 91 and 92.

 

I was recently talking to the mechanic who does my inspections, who happened to be working on a RHD XJ at the time, and he said the RHD fans and shrouds were NLA.  So I kind of ditched the idea.  I should have looked further into it.

 

Do you have a Mopar part number for the RHD fan and shroud?  Awesome tip on the 97-01 upper rad support.

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Relays and wiring in place. On the left side is the factory fog light relay. I re-wired it into a new relay box, so I could mount/ attach the same style relay for the full-time efan complete with 25 amp fuse.

 

relays.jpg

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I have basically the same setup...... The only thing I have extra is toggles in cab so I can manually over-ride for either off or on (one for each fan).

 

And to make you think about it......I can run 90% of the time with no fan running....

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  • 1 month later...

Just to update, I scrapped the relay/ coolant temp switch set up for a SPAL controller (same as Hornbrod's). Only difference will be I am going to run both the primary and secondary fan off the SPAL controller. Will program the fan's to come on in both low and high temperature settings.

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I'm glad I found this, as I have a SPAL controller, and with the A/C install on Maveric's rig, I want to convert to dual electric fans. Now I'll have to go on a quest for an RHD fan, even if I only find an intact shroud; I can always snag a motor and fan wheel from the J/Y if necessary. But I have one question: the OP's rig was a '92; were those already converted to the ECT in the t-stat housing, and the fan relay controlled directly by the ECU? Is that why he tried a fan controller switch for a Peugeot? 

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On 8/20/2020 at 4:25 PM, silvertwinkiehobo said:

Got another question: I'm not familiar with Jeep particulars, and even with the part number above, I don't know which model year XJs were offered in RHD. What years were they offered, and offered with the 4.0L?

 

not everyone checks the DIY forum regularly.  you should post up in the Tech forum so more eyes will see it. :L:  (but be sure to bring the answer back here ince you figure it out. :D  )

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  • 2 years later...

I'm really digging this setup. I've been throwing around the idea of moving over to a dual fan setup, but I'm not sure how large of an alternator I would need for (2) 10 blade stock fans. I currently have the 105a Delco CS130 family alternator for renix.

 

I'm eyeing a 145a Delco AD244 alternator as a replacement in hopes this would be adequate to run the dual fans. The AD244 is nice because it has built in regulation in the back of the motor and is a similar size to the CS130. The 160a DR44 might also work with a tiny PWM controller.

 

Nickintime did a video on the AD244 conversion, albeit with a location swapped AC compressor and alternator. I'll be leaving the alternator in the stock location. I may need a new belt, but I don't mind. Mine is likely old enough to drink by now :roflmao:

I plan on keeping the comanche stock with AC. Maybe automatic windows and locks in the future. No winch, air compressor, plow etc. Going to be used as a daily driver.

 

@GjeepWhat alternator did you end up using for this dual fan setup?

 

Edit: I combed through your excellent son of stink thread and it looks like you upgraded your alternator several times, starting with a rewound jeep/dodge 136a Alternator to a custom 200a+ Nations alternator. Thanks for the excellent guide!

 

:thanks:

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Between all the add-ons the Nations 13341-270XP was the one best suited for my build. It’s massive and not only required carving out the factory alternator bracket, it needed extended bracketry, and a slight notch the frame. If I remember correctly it was around $800

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