Son of Stink

[Red Mistress]

I'm sure the OEM straps will fit better and give better clearance.

Sorry about rubber suggestion but I can't stand metal on metal abrasion over time. (rust)

Even though Jeep didn't use rubber pads on all years of XJ, doesn't mean that it can't be improved.

Ordered 4 crown straps with rubber and plan on throwing the strap away and keeping the rubber liner.

I had bought roll of self adhesive rubber strips, but like your idea much better.

 

Rear brake line looks legit !  Thru the years, I have had problems with braided lines on different Jeeps.  

Seems that the braided hose doesn't flex as much as rubber and all the flex happens at fittings, which is where they have failed.

 

Good idea on the sub, won't take up much room and keep crap from going under seat.  

Which brand subs did you get?

 

Looking good as always.

[Gjeep]

Did a ton of digging to find the right sub for the MJ… After buying and listening to several, I went with the Pioneer TS-WX010A. This under the seat sub is downward firing with a built-in amp of 50W RMS/ 160W Max. I’ll be running one behind each seat. These subs were made specifically for compact/ subcompact cars. The goal is not to go deaf, but to have a discrete sub that adds good balanced thump. They’ll be painted black to match the MJ’s interior. This is a photo of the underside.

 

 

Been working away connecting, cloth taping, sorting, and readying the interior wiring for a full test soon enough.

[MiNi Beast]

Very nice.  I like my beats. But my speakers boxes do take up good real estate. Be interested in how they work out for you. Project is coming along nicely.  

[Gjeep]

Incredible how long it takes to wrap and neaten wires— 3hrs of fun. Passenger side behind the dash houses the dual efan and amplifier/sub power set up (and alternatives).

 

 

The MJ runs a Dakota Digital controller, but I have a SPAL efan controller as the failover. To alternate if needed, I simply unplug the 2-wire power connector for the Dakota Digital setup under the dash and connect it to an identical connector that can power up the SPAL. And under the hood I would unplug/plug the associated wiring at the efans themselves. (The Dakota Digital controller is mounted to an XJ/MJ AW4 TCM controller bracket with HI/ LOW relays on the HVAC box, while the SPAL controller is mounted to the HVAC box).

 

And for the amplifier/sub setup… there is wiring and power for the Punch amp mounted on the inner passenger side kick panel to run a large subwoofer setup (wiring already laid to the back cab wall) if I decide the smaller dual under the seat subs don’t do the trick. Again, for power, it’s a swap of a single plug one to the other. For now, the under the seat subs will get power and the inline fuses for them are also mounted on TCM bracket. The relay my pinky finger is holding up in the photo is for the XJ power antenna. All large connectors, relays, etc are wrapped in self-adhesive foam pads to hopefully eliminate any in cab unwanted rattling noise.

[Gjeep]

While I’ve got the opportunity, my aim is to make the dashboard wire routing easier to work with (now and in the future). The noticeable difference between the first gen and second gen dash (‘97+ XJ) is that first gen the wiring was significantly attached to the dashboard itself, making first gen dashboard removal unnecessarily difficult. (Whereas the second gen has the wiring near entirely unattached to the dash.) My goal is to not have any wiring attached to the back side of the dash. It doesn’t need to be there.

 

In addition to aftermarket add-on’s, I’ve also got factory dashboard wiring add-on’s, such as the power antenna and overhead console. The overhead console wiring for example is routed around the inside ‘square’ of the radio/ HVAC control area of the XJ, fastened with 4 zip-tie push pins. Instead of installing it the same way in the MJ, it makes sense to simply route it behind the HVAC distributing funnel atop the HVAC box. I carefully fastened it to the vacuum lines in 2 locations. The main across wiring harness that runs the center section of the dash was fastened by drilling a small hole in the HVAC box (making sure all was out of harms way on the inside of the box) and attached using a pin-pin zip-tie.

 

 

 

 

For the audio wiring, similar to the Renix era XJ/MJ’s, it’ll be tucked topside of the HVAC funnel with Velcro and plenty of foam padding. Seems once Chrysler got their hands on Jeep those little details disappeared…at least on all the Jeep’s I’ve had. AMC definitely paid better attention to the details.

 

 

[Gjeep]

Got a small to-do done… The first gen MJ/XJ’s electrical of the power windows/ locks was in prime position to get we exposed in the inner door. One positive of the original set up was the factory vent windows was placed above that silicone electrical connector and for the most part shielded it. Despite being fully covered, Jeep thought it best to put a plastic bib on the upper window lip of the inner door that draped over the back side of the inner door handle and window/door lock connector. My setup by eliminating the vent window in favor of a full window truly exposes the electrical, so – I cut a modified version of the bib to ensure the inner door handle and electrical was protected from the elements. I used a medium duty mold-resistant plastic. The chip-clip you see below helped me keep the fold in the plastic until I was ready to apply the double-sided tape for installation. Final step is putting the inner door wipe/weatherstrip over the top of it all. Done.

 

 

 

 

[Gjeep]

Learned something new on the MJ today…there’s a ¼” difference between driver and passenger side B-pillar seat belt depth. I was drilling out some scrap shoulder belt harness brackets (to swap over to new XJ-only shoulder belt assemblies) and noticed the passenger side bracket torx mount at the B-pillar was off center. I assumed it was a manufacturing error and found another set, also with the passenger mount hole off center. I looked closer and noticed they were indeed two different part numbers driver to passenger side.

 

 

Assumed if the approx. 1/4” difference exists in brackets, it must also exist on the sheet metal and interior plastic…so I grabbed some sample panels and sure enough the 1/4” difference existed. I had always assumed they were symmetrical. Not clear on why Jeep would go more forward on the passenger side? Maybe so driver side access to the behind the seat area was mildly easier to navigate? The upside down tape measure is passenger side; right side up is driver.

 

 

 

[Gjeep]

This is the new shoulder belt assembly and bracket disassembled with an original MJ shoulder belt retractor. The line of the dining room table serves as the on-center point through the square (original XJ aftermarket bracket) and the two holes of the aftermarket and original MJ assembly. Based on the removed MJ mounting bracket (positioned in the photo under the new seat belt) I can reuse the XJ bracket cut up and drilled out to accommodate the 4 mounting holes – 2 on the new assembly and 2 on the MJ B-pillar mounting bracket, plus the original large diameter hole. The way the aftermarket assembly bracket was mounted to the belt was odd…carriage bolt in a round hole that was tight as it could get but could wobble a good 1/4” in either direction. They really short-cut what could have been – that being, employing triangular strength using all 3 holes. I’m lucky this is an easy conversion as I’ve seen others converting XJ to MJ that weren’t quite as straight-forward.

 

 

The new seatbelt assembly is an otherwise nicely made unit. I have found various sleeves for the bottom side of the should belt as it is fully exposed on the MJ, unlike the XJ. I also have new ‘buckle’ ends as well and various black hardcover sleeves to fit those. Need to confirm which sleeve will be the best fit, but I’m guessing the 3^rd gen Camaro (which unfortunately has 2 different length sleeves driver to passenger side, so needed to purchase two of the kits to have a matching set for the MJ).

[Gjeep]

Been dabbling with my switch pod overlays… Hard to capture the texture in photos, but I’m just about there. My first pass was way too textured, second pass not nearly enough – You can see the first two on the table, with the third pass beside the factory pod/switch.

 

 

Attempt three is just about there. The color match to the fog light switch is spot-on. Just want to see if I can get it 100%.

 

 

 

[Gjeep]

Typically 3rd time is a charm, but this time it was 4th -- Got spot-on color match to new switch and identical texture to OEM switch pod overlay. I can check this 'how-to' project off my list. (Yesterday's attempt is the one in the distance.)

 

 

[howeitsdone]

How are you printing the switch labels? The winch idea is pretty cool!

[Gjeep]

Continuing with the seatbelt project/ working out decisions… I put my placeholder center console into position to test seat belt buckle sleeve options I found. My selection ranges from 3^rd gen Camaro/ Firebird, C4 Corvette, 3^rd gen Mustang, and a generic sleeve. The only two that were proper length were the Vette’s and the Camaro’s…The Vette’s is just odd looking and the sleeve is straight with no bends toward the seat occupant.

 

 

Of course, the Camaro’s seat belt sleeves (and belts themselves) are different length driver and passenger side. I’m not sure which is which, but the sleeve that worked for the MJ was the shorter length of the two.

 

 

My number one goal aside from finding a sleeve proper length is that it not hit or rest against the center console. First gen XJ/ MJ AMC sourced seat belts eventually carved into/ scratched up the center console because they were hard-pressed against it. It took me an endless amount of time to find 2 black center consoles without this damage and I want to make sure they stay that way.

 

 

[Limeyjeeper]

On 3/31/2022 at 4:59 PM, Gjeep said:

While I’ve got the opportunity, my aim is to make the dashboard wire routing easier to work with (now and in the future). The noticeable difference between the first gen and second gen dash (‘97+ XJ) is that first gen the wiring was significantly attached to the dashboard itself, making first gen dashboard removal unnecessarily difficult. (Whereas the second gen has the wiring near entirely unattached to the dash.) My goal is to not have any wiring attached to the back side of the dash. It doesn’t need to be there.

 

In addition to aftermarket add-on’s, I’ve also got factory dashboard wiring add-on’s, such as the power antenna and overhead console. The overhead console wiring for example is routed around the inside ‘square’ of the radio/ HVAC control area of the XJ, fastened with 4 zip-tie push pins. Instead of installing it the same way in the MJ, it makes sense to simply route it behind the HVAC distributing funnel atop the HVAC box. I carefully fastened it to the vacuum lines in 2 locations. The main across wiring harness that runs the center section of the dash was fastened by drilling a small hole in the HVAC box (making sure all was out of harms way on the inside of the box) and attached using a pin-pin zip-tie.

 

 

 

 

For the audio wiring, similar to the Renix era XJ/MJ’s, it’ll be tucked topside of the HVAC funnel with Velcro and plenty of foam padding. Seems once Chrysler got their hands on Jeep those little details disappeared…at least on all the Jeep’s I’ve had. AMC definitely paid better attention to the details.

 

 

With enough time it would be possible to really simplify the harnesses in the MJ. When you pull them apart and look at the amount of wasted wire it is amazing. Just the grounds could be simplified to reduce a huge amount of complexity. I have never seen interior light circuits that are so complicated.

[ghetdjc320]

On 4/7/2022 at 1:19 PM, Gjeep said:

Typically 3rd time is a charm, but this time it was 4th -- Got spot-on color match to new switch and identical texture to OEM switch pod overlay. I can check this 'how-to' project off my list. (Yesterday's attempt is the one in the distance.)

 

 

This is looking familiar 😂 

 

Out of curiosity, did I you make the logos a glow through design? 

[Gjeep]

yep, glow-through

[Gjeep]

Unknowingly, I ended up digging a little deeper on the seatbelt bracketry… As I ordered some MJ replacement “parts” shoulder belts for my next MJ build, I learned that the first gen (AMC -era) brackets were more easily suited to mount to the new aftermarket shoulder belt setup. See below. The flat bracket of the first gen makes for a simple cut and drill; where as the later gen shoulder belt bracket is not flat. As always, there are different ways this can be done, but for me when messing with seatbelts I want to have as many good, solid attaching points as possible.

 

 

 

Also, the main (large) bolt mount just about lines up old bracket to new shoulder belt assembly.

 

 

Completed shoulder belt assemblies. 

 

[Gjeep]

Disassembled the Pioneer sub – ripped it’s guts out to ready the shell for paint. It’s molded in an awful and odd blue/purple color that absolutely no car in the entire world has. Why they just didn’t make it black I don’t know. The speaker itself was surprisingly heavy, so I’m looking forward to hearing it (hopefully sometime in the next couple months when I do full vehicle electrical testing).

 

 

 

Also got some metal ready for the powder-coating. Repop roll bar brackets from our very own CC member and a GM steering column security collar from many years gone by. It was a made in USA piece specific and was available for most every US automaker. For the GM column (XJ) there was a choice between manual/ auto trans and tilt and non-tilt columns. It’s a relatively beefy piece that doesn’t look ridiculous when installed. The only other column guard for GM columns that is still available is a bright orange over-sized piece.

 

 

Also trimmed out some bed-flaps. The hard plastic ones I have I did refinish; and they came out well, but I like the idea of the masticated rubber as it matches what Jeep used for the front fender liner.

 

 

Next up is trimming out new roll bar gaskets of varied thickness for the kicker bars. 

[Gjeep]

Cutting 1/8" rubber for roll bar pads. 3x as thick as factory to hopefully avoid paint contact.

Time-consuming fun.

 

 

[Gjeep]

Chugging along at a snail’s pace… Got all the black interior panels cleaned up front and back side. I tucked them away near ready to paint at some point in the near future. I decided to shoot a test panel of SEM’s satin black (#15243) and Landau black (#15013), then spent over in hour in various indoor and outdoor light settings, indirect, direct light – you name it I viewed that test panel against a probably the least faded interior panel I have – the door panel map pocket. The hard plastic map pocket color, in addition to most other interior panels, matched the SEM satin black best…but then I compared the test panel of colors to the dashboard, new seats and door panels vinyl and the Landau black was the closest match. Of course, fueling my insanity. Then I used a wipe-on UV protectant most panels and fabrics would be conditioned with when the truck was complete -- and final color match result landed at Landau black being the winner. Here’s some pics related to the crazy…

 

 

 

 

Took some time to remove the old carpet from the cab backwall and clean up that backerboard panel. I’m filling the spare tire jack related holes as I’ve got all that stuff out of the way, mounted under the hood. I want a nice clutter-free back of cab wall.

 

 

Next, I dusted off and polished up the rollbar which had been sitting a while. This bar actually came off of my Colorado Red MJ. The owner had removed it soon after buying the truck placing a camper shell out back, so the bar has spent 99% of its life indoors. I’ll be pre-wiring the bar so the install will be less trouble. Also finished up with my kindergarten acquired skills, cutting all the pads that the roll bar will reside on bedside.

 

 

 

Finally, working towards completing behind-the-scenes interior details, I sized and placed the ½” extra padding I like to run in my MJ’s and XJ’s. Design Engineering is the manufacturer of this sound-absorbing insulation material that takes shape easily and is of a nice dense quality.

 

 

[fiatslug87]

How many bolt holes do your sport bar kickers have? Mine only have three.

[Gjeep]

Three holes for the kicker mounts also. The two middle holes are for drainage. I think, as there are matching holes backside of the kicker foot that line up with them. 

[Gjeep]

For those of you Comanche faithful out there that ran wiring for roll bar lights, hats off to you. That dime-size hole on the bottom foot of the main hoop driver’s side is beyond fun fishing wires through, but it’s done. Jeep should have drilled out a larger access hole…and I should have caught that prior to having the bar powder-coated and drilled it 1.5" large. I found the best way to get the wires from NOT running down the kicker legs of the bar was tipping the bar 45 degrees forward…and even then it took some doing getting the wires through the main hoop bends of the bar.

 

 

 

Also 99% certain I’ll be running different rims than originally planned for this project. Found NOS 15x6 Jeep rallye rims that I’m going to have widened to 15x8 with polished trim ring. Currently torn between powder-coating rims black with chrome Jeep center caps or standard silver rallye silver with black Jeep military style flat caps. Leaning toward the silver, but will see.

 

 

 

[Gjeep]

Cutting and filing the overhead console insert area for a hands-free mic that ties into the Bluetooth radio. Like the XJ’s I’ve built before, I use a German microphone that snaps right into a mid-2000’s BMW speaker grille. Looks MJ/ XJ appropriate. Unlike the 97+ XJ’s overhead console that I’ve installed this in, the first gen XJ overhead console has a lot less ‘free space’ behind the scenes. The only place that this could logically go in the above area meant a tight fit of 1/8” cushion on all sides due to console reinforcements, brackets, etc. Still need to pretty it all up, but it’s in and looks good.

 

 

 

 

 

[Gjeep]

Got the fuel door mounted, protecting the paint as I squeaked through narrow gap to turn the hardware. Also painted the backside of the header panel to match the front side lower portion (flat black). And lastly, taped off and sprayed the clutch/ brake pedal so it would look as fresh as the new gas pedal assembly soon to be mounted.

 

 

 

[Gjeep]

Cleaned up, disassembled, greased, tightened, repaired outer shell plastic, sanded, then wet-sanded, and soon to replace the ignition cylinder (after paint) on the new to me tilt column assembly. All the ignition switches will be replaced with NOS as will all connectors. Takes time!

 

 

Also, been filling the cut-lines and oem style inserts on the repop seat tumble lever trim, then sanding over and over again before final paint. I like Permatex's Black Plastic Welder as it dries fast and has caused me zero issues in the past as far as breakage goes. I do have to take another 'fill' and sand pass to on these to be 100%, but I'm liking how they look. These bezels are solid plastic on the backside which was what the originals were not, hence the breakage. I can't remember what CC member made these, but I'm ready to buy a couple sets more if they ever go back into production. 

 

 

 

 

Lastly, I painted the header panel lower section flat black as I did the backside.