Oversize Oil Filter

[HOrnbrod]

Thought I'd try to squeeze in the super large Baldwin filter this oil change, and it fits fine. It's actually easier to get in there than the standard filter because I can change it from the bottom instead of shredding my arm up from the top. Almost a quart more capacity - and that's always good. 

 

[Big Dan]

What made you decide to try it out?

[HOrnbrod]

Theoretically more capacity lowers oil temps overall, and gives added protection against viscosity breakdown. Realistically, maybe, maybe not. It'll be beneficial I think because I use the Hesco high volume oil pump in my stroker, and Hesco recommends it. We'll see this summer...

[coolwind57]

That's the one I have in my Renix 89.

[DirtyComanche]

How do the filter efficiencies compare between the two?

[FrankTheDog]

I have been running the Motorcraft FL-1 size filter on mine because of the larger capacity over stock but this brings it to a whole new level.

[HOrnbrod]

1 hour ago, DirtyComanche said:

How do the filter efficiencies compare between the two?

 

From what I've found they are about the same, with a slight positive edge on the smaller from an independent lab - Bob the prejudiced Oil Guy.

 

Baldwin doesn't publish the micron efficiency of their filters on their spec sheets, and if they did I probably wouldn't understand it anyhow. I'm sure you could though. 

[Minuit]

Not chrome. What's wrong with you?

[HOrnbrod]

8 minutes ago, Minuit said:

Not chrome. What's wrong with you?

 

The sexy red is a nice contrast. 

[HOrnbrod]

2 hours ago, coolwind57 said:

That's the one I have in my Renix 89.

 

Renix filters have different threads unless you've adapted it.

[coolwind57]

8 hours ago, HOrnbrod said:

 

Renix filters have different threads unless you've adapted it.

I did.

[coolwind57]

Here's mine on my 89.  Believe it or not, the matching paint color that I used on my intake heat shield and dip stick wasn't planned.  Just a color I had laying around. I just want each of my components to look better after I work on them.

[75sv1]

Is the Baldwin a synthetic media? I am using the NAPA Platinum with Rotella T6. Its larger than the stock filter, but not as large as the one you have.

[coolwind57]

1 hour ago, 75sv1 said:

Is the Baldwin a synthetic media? I am using the NAPA Platinum with Rotella T6. Its larger than the stock filter, but not as large as the one you have.

 

I'd looked into this filter's performance in the past, and man, Baldwin sure doesn't put out much detailed information.  Here's a few shared stats that I found on a quick search of forums:

 

23 microns,  flows at 23 gpm

Made in USA

The BT is their prefix for "Spin-on Lube or Hydraulic/Transmission Filter"

Anti-Drainback Valve

8 psi by-pass relief 

 

Some guys really get into the detailed discussions and ugly arguments that most always ensue.  Many folks talk/argue about micron ratings.  Check out what Baldwin says about micron ratings: 

 

Micron Ratings are arbitrary values assigned to filters or media. Although a “micron” is a length (1 millionth of a meter), a “micron rating” is not actually a measured value. The micron rating for a filter quotes a particle size without establishing the filter’s efficiency at removing that size of particle. A window screen will remove some 5 micron particles, but it will not be very efficient. Since a micron rating cannot be verified, filter manufacturers are safe in assigning any number they want. We do not recommend comparing filters based on micron ratings.

 

To compare filters, the filter industry has established standardized tests for measuring performance. These tests also include Life and Efficiency Tests (SAE HS806, J726 and J905) and Beta Ratio Tests (ISO 4548-12 and ISO 16889). These standardized tests, along with the meticulous recording of test conditions, insure that filter manufacturers compare “apples to apples.”

 

LIFE AND EFFICIENCY TESTS Life and Efficiency Tests are the most accurate and objective way to compare the performance of filters. A life and efficiency test measures the filter’s ability to remove a standardized contaminant from a standardized fluid that is flowing at a constant rate and constant temperature. The test continues until the contamination increases the differential pressure drop across the filter to a specific, predetermined level.

 

The test results will include a Time Weighted Efficiency (%) and a Capacity (grams). BETA RATIO TESTS Beta Ratio Tests measure a filter’s ability to remove particles of a given size. In other words, the tests measure the filter’s efficiencies at specific particle sizes. The beta ratio test actually counts the particles in the fluid before the filter and after the filter. This test is generally done on hydraulic filters. SUMMARY In summary, equipment owners should consider all of the factors when choosing filters for their applications. You should try to closely follow crossreference and specific application recommendations. When comparing filters, you should note the questionable nature of micron ratings and try to get standardized test information.

 

As for me, this filter had worked for many and I feel good about putting it on.  I've read comments from a few guys that have cut them apart, and their comments suggest that the construction is above average.  Hadn't run across anything on whether or not the filter's media is synthetic or cellulose/paper.

I've not read a single comment that someone said the Baldwin BT-251 had destroyed their engine.  And I dig the color.  Prior to the pretty red Baldwin, i used the nearly equally-sized WIX 51773:

[DesertRat1991]

Does more oil capacity allow you to go longer between oil changes?  If not, seems like this just makes your regular oil changes more expensive.

 

 

[coolwind57]

18 minutes ago, DesertRat1991 said:

Does more oil capacity allow you to go longer between oil changes?  If not, seems like this just makes your regular oil changes more expensive.

 

 

 

I didn't alter time between oil changes.  Yep, you're paying an additional $4 to $5 I suppose.  But I disagree that it just makes your changes more expensive.  Your few extra bucks gets you the benefits of added capacity.    

[Eagle]

1 hour ago, coolwind57 said:

 

I didn't alter time between oil changes.  Yep, you're paying an additional $4 to $5 I suppose.  But I disagree that it just makes your changes more expensive.  Your few extra bucks gets you the benefits of added capacity.    

 

But the Jeep 4.0L starts off with 6 quarts. When the parent engines were used in AMC cars, the capacity was only 5 quarts, and the engines routinely lasted 200,000 to 300,000 miles. On dinosaur oil.. Jeep uses a larger/deeper oil pan. How much additional oil do you need?

[coolwind57]

17 minutes ago, Eagle said:

 

But the Jeep 4.0L starts off with 6 quarts. When the parent engines were used in AMC cars, the capacity was only 5 quarts, and the engines routinely lasted 200,000 to 300,000 miles. On dinosaur oil.. Jeep uses a larger/deeper oil pan. How much additional oil do you need?

Some guys spend $200-300 on Cold Air Intakes.  I spend $4 more on an oil change.  I can't think of a reason why more oil availability is a bad thing.  

 

C'mon Eagle.  Let me blow my $4 so that it makes me feel happy!  haha

[omega_rugal]

On 4/25/2018 at 5:20 PM, HOrnbrod said:

Theoretically more capacity lowers oil temps overall, and gives added protection against viscosity breakdown

 

 

so what about oil coolers? do they help? since cooler oil means healthier oil...

[Eagle]

50 minutes ago, omega_rugal said:

 

 

so what about oil coolers? do they help? since cooler oil means healthier oil...

 

Yes, they do help.

[HOrnbrod]

12 hours ago, Eagle said:

But the Jeep 4.0L starts off with 6 quarts. When the parent engines were used in AMC cars, the capacity was only 5 quarts, and the engines routinely lasted 200,000 to 300,000 miles. On dinosaur oil.. Jeep uses a larger/deeper oil pan. How much additional oil do you need?

 

So what? In the olde days speed limits were lower, and fuel wasn't loaded with ethanol and other crap additives. Conditions are different now, engines have to work harder today. "How much additional oil do you need?" An extra quart for a couple of bucks more is a decent investment to me. 

[omega_rugal]

If you wanna save on oil, switch to LPG, it`s been 6 months since the last change and still looks very clean, dipstick comes out so clear that you can`t see the level. the previous change lasted 8 months and only changed it because it began to breakdown and evaporate, didn`t get as dirty as when it ran on gasoline, gasoline turned it into sludge after 3 months...

[johnj92131]

Lots of endless debates all over the internet about oil.  Here is what I "think" I now.

 

1) More oil takes longer to warm up the oil to operating temperature.

2) Below operating temperature oil means more engine friction drag than operating temperature oil.  It also means more H2O in the oil longer.

3) Modern oil is engineered to specific SAE Grades or performance standards.  Zinc additives went away due to their ill effects on catalytic convertors

4) Oil additive packages in modern oils wear out with use.  How much? That depends on engine conditions and engine use

5) Oil picks up byproducts of engine combustion and wear particles:  It is the garbage collector for your engine's insides. Even with a bigger garbage collector you still need to throw out the garbage in the can every so often.

6) Modern oils do a much better job at just about everything than the oils of the 1960's.  Proof is how long the average car engine runs now vs. the 60's

[DirtyComanche]

10 hours ago, omega_rugal said:

If you wanna save on oil, switch to LPG, it`s been 6 months since the last change and still looks very clean, dipstick comes out so clear that you can`t see the level. the previous change lasted 8 months and only changed it because it began to breakdown and evaporate, didn`t get as dirty as when it ran on gasoline, gasoline turned it into sludge after 3 months...

 

I haven't changed the oil in my plow truck is 5 years.  It looks like brand new, yup, it's propane.  That's with tons of full throttle use and abuse and driving it on the road in the summer the first couple years.

 

That doesn't mean it is okay.  The actual contaminates most often damaging to an engine are metals in the 5-15 micron range, which unless in really high concentrations are not very visible and will most likely be silver in colour if they are.  What makes oil black is soot (carbon) and often it the pieces are smaller than 5 microns, so it really doesn't filter out in a conventional oil filter.  With a 10 micron absolute (which will filter 5 microns most of the time) bypass setup you will get most of it out, along with almost all of those 5-15 micron pieces of metal.  Carbon itself isn't a terrible thing, it's not hard enough to cause any real wear, but it will deposit itself in places and the bigger chunks do plug the filter.  Anyways, the problem with only running a conventional filter is that it becomes much less efficient in short order, as more of the media is plugged with various contaminants it makes it so the remaining unplugged areas are more likely to just have contaminants pushed through them.  I don't personally see an issue with extended oil changes with synthetic oil, YMMV, but you MUST change the filter at a regular interval and top the oil up.  Topping the oil up seems to reasonably effectively restore the additive package, which breaks down through heat and oxidation as the oil is used, and if you don't do this the oil will lose it's effectiveness in various ways along with typically becoming acidic in nature.  Oil becoming acidic is very hard on bearing surfaces and will lead to corrosion attacking them.  If you really want to not have to change your oil then adding a bypass filter is the best bet.

[omega_rugal]

5 years? so you are just topping it off as it burns?