Comanche kid520 Posted December 17, 2017 Posted December 17, 2017 Hi all new to the forum hoping to get some help sorry if I posted in wrong section anyway I have an 88 Comanche 2.5. 4 banger 2wd and its running super rich can't pass emissions I have replaced and tested almost everything I can think of map tps iat o2 replaced cts sensor checked and cleaned all the spark plugs and not a huge change on my emissions test my co2 is allowed 1.20 and I'm at 7.34 way too high the same is for the hydrocarbons I don't know what to do next but need to pass because she's my daily driver any help appreciated thx Also I have checked for any vacuum leaks and nothing
Pete M Posted December 18, 2017 Posted December 18, 2017 my next thought would be the fuel injector leaking rather than spraying.
Pete M Posted December 19, 2017 Posted December 19, 2017 yes. the single injector is know to leak and dribble gas into the throttle body causing poor mpgs or bad emissions.
cruiser54 Posted December 19, 2017 Posted December 19, 2017 Refresh the ground at the firewall. The braided strap. remove, scrape to bare metal, clean it up and bolt it back together. Super important as it is the ground for numerous sensors.
Comanche kid520 Posted December 19, 2017 Author Posted December 19, 2017 I'm sorry for the late reply but what does tbfi mean ?? And cruiser do you mean the ground that is on the back off the block ???
HOrnbrod Posted December 19, 2017 Posted December 19, 2017 Throttle body fuel injection. Should be a braided ground strap from a head bolt to the firewall.
Comanche kid520 Posted December 19, 2017 Author Posted December 19, 2017 Awesome thanks i will definitely take the ground off a clean it will let you know what happenes
HOrnbrod Posted December 19, 2017 Posted December 19, 2017 1 minute ago, Comanche kid520 said: Awesome thanks i will definitely take the ground off a clean it will let you know what happenes Clean up the ground connections on the oil dip stick tube too.
carnuck Posted December 19, 2017 Posted December 19, 2017 No need for this I’m sure but clean the tube between the map and motor to make sure it’s getting a good vacuum signal. Mine was clogged with blowby over the years and cleaning it out cured it. I had fixed the throttle body o-rings on the injector “egg” but still had a bad stutter and raw fuel smell. If you fill your gas tank to the brim each time then the charcoal canister can be saturated as well. That won’t affect the fuel economy as much as the O-rings but it will mess with CO numbers as well as the fuel saturated engine oil being vaporized and drawn in raw through the CCV tube so it’s not fully burnt by the tailpipe for testing. My thermostat being too low temp (stuck part way open) threw off my numbers as well because it was stuck in cold mode. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Jeep Driver Posted December 20, 2017 Posted December 20, 2017 You can actually watch the injector spray.........I doubt it's the injector. MAP or O2 or coolant temp sensor. It's one or all three that will cause a rich condition. If you did not replace O2 with NTK, replace again. If you did not replace MAP with GM MAP, replace again. Clean your C101 or eliminate. Clean your MAP port and replace line to MAP. Replace temp sensor in manifold with Mopar.........you can still find those. As stated, clean all grounds.
carnuck Posted December 20, 2017 Posted December 20, 2017 (edited) 8 minutes ago, Jeep Driver said: You can actually watch the injector spray.........I doubt it's the injector. MAP or O2 or coolant temp sensor. It's one or all three that will cause a rich condition. If you did not replace O2 with NTK, replace again. If you did not replace MAP with GM MAP, replace again. Clean your C101 or eliminate. Clean your MAP port and replace line to MAP. Replace temp sensor in manifold with Mopar.........you can still find those. As stated, clean all grounds. When the o-rings on the single injector leak, it still runs but the fuel pours down. It’s originally fed into the Venturi around the injector and that injector just allows fuel into the side and the “valve” inside just opens and closes to work the spray. There is a line in and return line out with pressure regulator. Edited December 20, 2017 by carnuck
Jeep Driver Posted December 20, 2017 Posted December 20, 2017 4 minutes ago, carnuck said: When the o-rings on the single injector leak, it still runs but the fuel pours down. I understand. I doubt he has a reference as to what a normal spray will look like. He can spend his $70 here. http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com/catalog/item/7638068/9101082.htm Or, he can do the obvious first.........well..............he's going to do all that anyway.
carnuck Posted December 20, 2017 Posted December 20, 2017 Good point. Fuel sprays from the injector normally in a fine mist. When the o-rings leak there is dripping.
cruiser54 Posted December 20, 2017 Posted December 20, 2017 15 hours ago, Comanche kid520 said: I'm sorry for the late reply but what does tbfi mean ?? And cruiser do you mean the ground that is on the back off the block ??? Head to firewall.
carnuck Posted December 20, 2017 Posted December 20, 2017 The Oring kit is easy to install if you have the right touch for removing the 3? screws and not tightening them till they snap on reinstall. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Injector removed O-rings kit 8005 (use dielectric grease to assemble) Injector overhaul kit
Comanche kid520 Posted December 27, 2017 Author Posted December 27, 2017 Hi all sorry it's been awhile holidays and all. But had another question I have the 160 thermostat in my truck and been reading that it is too cold and that maybe that it's stuck in cold mode in open loop would wrong thermostat cause this if so then what is the correct Tstat that I should buy thanks again
Jeep Driver Posted December 27, 2017 Posted December 27, 2017 Get a MotoRad 192............sold at OReilly
87Warrior Posted December 28, 2017 Posted December 28, 2017 I know MotoRad is the supplier for Mopar thermostats, but the parts store MotoRad thermostat I put in my 86 didn't last 6 months until it was stuck open. I suggest paying just a little more for a Mopar thermostat. These seem to be the most reliable. Even available on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F6E3W8M/
Minuit Posted December 28, 2017 Posted December 28, 2017 53 minutes ago, HOrnbrod said: ^^^ This. Genuine Mopar only. Words to live by.
Jeep Driver Posted December 28, 2017 Posted December 28, 2017 3 hours ago, 87Warrior said: I know MotoRad is the supplier for Mopar thermostats, but the parts store MotoRad thermostat I put in my 86 didn't last 6 months until it was stuck open. I suggest paying just a little more for a Mopar thermostat. These seem to be the most reliable. Even available on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F6E3W8M/ Is stuck open because you got the Fail-Safe which is a No-No never get the failsafe it's the same thermostat you get a Mopar
cruiser54 Posted December 29, 2017 Posted December 29, 2017 Motorad does make the factory stats and they're great. But, they don't sell one like it in the aftermarket. Dealer only.
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