DigitalBman Posted March 13, 2017 Author Share Posted March 13, 2017 Nice looking rig! for your driveshaft, talk to a shop about what measurement the need. Basically running position, max flex extended and max compressed, I reccomend finding a loading dock or something similar to flex on or a forklift. are those truck lite headlights? how's the oitput? I was going to do a retro fit on my jeep but it would look outta place and I he waiting for the ballast to warm up Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk I love these lights! Rigid Industries bought out truck lights, I had been eying the JW Speakers.... But just to much $$$. And I loved the darker look of the truck lights after rigid bought them. These lights have extremely clean cut offs and great output. Very happy with them. Will post some night pics. I still need to finish adjusting them. These are LED, so no warm up time and no ballast. The drive shaft at full flex seems to have enough bite That I'm not gonna worry to much about it right now.. It did great at Kansas rocks going over some obstacles at more than full flex. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KCsurfer420 Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 Also installed this today, a new RKE board with 4 factory Key Fobs. They do all work! Pretty cool stuff. Where did you get thoes Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigitalBman Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 Also installed this today, a new RKE board with 4 factory Key Fobs. They do all work! Pretty cool stuff. Where did you get thoes Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk From 1timberlake on eBay details are a few posts up. Question, did you happen to replace the heater core and evaporator core when you built the jeep? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigitalBman Posted March 23, 2017 Author Share Posted March 23, 2017 Replaced the rear main seal and oil pan gasket. Oil pan was pretty warped and beat from rocks. Everything seemed to be doing great until I got home and oil was spewing out. Can't tell if it's the pan, the RMS, or a combination of the two. So iv ordered some new parts and I will try again next weekend! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigitalBman Posted April 7, 2017 Author Share Posted April 7, 2017 So a little update! Cleaned the extremely dirty floor, welded up and patched up holes that were left in the floor, cleaned up some cancer, painted the patches and the floor with some bedliner. The cab now has no holes allowing air to flow through and create the draft it had. Then laid some dynamat style material. Literally covered every square inch of the floor and back wall, even inside the B-Pillars. This stuff seriously looks and feels exactly like dynamat. There is nearly 80 square feet of dynamat and dynamat style deafening material between the floor and the roof. And began installing the new carpet. Still have trimming to do and some fitting to do. Also sanded and painted the E-Brake mechanism. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KCsurfer420 Posted April 11, 2017 Share Posted April 11, 2017 Looking good Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigitalBman Posted April 12, 2017 Author Share Posted April 12, 2017 Got the new oil pan in over the weekend. Turned out because of how warped the old oil pan was, when I pushed everything up to the engine and tightened it down, it kicked out the gasket on the rear. And the gasket maker dried in the position. Put on a Moroso oil pan, holds two extra quarts, has slosh plates and baffles to keep the oil near the pick up tube. Pretty kick @$$! Everything went on good and hold oil just fine! Also got the amplifier mounted as well as 4 of the 8 speakers. Got the 6.5"s in the doors, 6x9"s in the rear, the limited tweeters, and two 6 3/4" subwoofers mounted above the head. 2,000 watts through a 5 channel amp. Every wire is hidden. Also installed a 6.5 inch double din head unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigitalBman Posted April 13, 2017 Author Share Posted April 13, 2017 Here is the double din install so far. What I think I'm gonna do is move the radio to the left, so the buttons are aligned with the dash bezel, on the right make a pocket with a rubber or textured liner to place my phone, ID's, change, etc. Gonna make it out of fiber glass. But I'm really happy that I didn't have to modify the dash bezel. Went with this pioneer Cuz it allows duel video input, that means rock crawl cameras. That means my wife won't have to get out and spot me all the time! Lol Got the jeep thrown back together Cuz my dad and grandma are coming for a visit, will he their first time seeing this jeep in person. Also, wanted to get some seat time in it to make sure everything is squared away for the event I'm going to on the 22nd at Kansas Rocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigitalBman Posted April 16, 2017 Author Share Posted April 16, 2017 This happened today!! Thought it was fitting.. And anybody that knows comanches will question it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigitalBman Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share Posted May 2, 2017 I posted this in a tech thread, but just to keep my build documented I'm updating this thread as well. Broke the pins that are inside of the spartan locker... Literally just driving on a road is when it happened. Went to turn and it was darn near impossible. So... I have since ordered an OX locker for the front and I am replacing my 3.55 gears with 4.88's front and rear. Parts will be here this week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 I wonder what happened that the Spartan ate its pins. Normally they're pretty good, as far as lunchbox lockers go. :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigitalBman Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share Posted May 2, 2017 I wonder what happened that the Spartan ate its pins. Normally they're pretty good, as far as lunchbox lockers go. :dunno: No Idea... But i decided instead repairing it like i was gonna do, id do a much needed gear swap and go ahead and put in a locker up front that full engages and dis engages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigitalBman Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share Posted May 2, 2017 /doublepost Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigitalBman Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share Posted May 2, 2017 Also been getting some work done on the over head console! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigitalBman Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 Have made some progress... Still don't like the pattern though... I need to adjust the pinion depth some more and I think I'll be okay. Been such a harsh wind here it's been hard to get much done and with the rain too. Sucks working out of the back of a box truck and in a parking lot! Lol I'm pretty excited to see what these 4.88 gears will do!! Big jump from 3.55 If anybody has some advice for these gears I am all ears! This is my first time doing a gear swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 You need a whack more pinion depth. Are you shimming under the race or the bearing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigitalBman Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 You need a whack more pinion depth. Are you shimming under the race or the bearing? Yep.. Was gonna add 5 thou. I am shimming under the race, are there advantages or disadvantages to one method or the other? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 The race is the easy way if you don't have setup bearings. But yeah, add .005 and see how it goes. I'm thinking it will be more than that, but it's always a guessing game. Make sure you get the pinion preload in spec, or if you can't that it's just on the tight side and then take it easy on break in. Likewise, carrier bearing preload is your friend, unless you use a case spreader and hammer the carrier in it's pretty much impossible to have too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigitalBman Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 The race is the easy way if you don't have setup bearings. But yeah, add .005 and see how it goes. I'm thinking it will be more than that, but it's always a guessing game. Make sure you get the pinion preload in spec, or if you can't that it's just on the tight side and then take it easy on break in. Likewise, carrier bearing preload is your friend, unless you use a case spreader and hammer the carrier in it's pretty much impossible to have too much. Thanks!:] What specs do you have for a Dana 30? I have 12-15 in lbs on the pinion. Well, I have a setup race and have been removing it and adjusting the shims under the raise because that is where I believed it needed to be adjusted. I guess with a setup pinion bearing you would shim at the head of the pinion? Everything I have read online they shim under the race to adjust the pinion depth. I had my carrier shims in such a way that it was a snug fit, took some umpf to get it in by hand. When added 5 thou more it was darn near impossible to get it in, had to really hammer it in. Should that be my goal? I don't have any any shims less than 5 thou. Thanks for the info! I really appreciate it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 Yup, 12-15 in-lbs of preload, 6-10 thou of backlash. Having to really hammer the carrier in is a good thing, it sounds like you've got it right. Just avoid the first drive being a long stint on the highway, it's going to make some heat the first couple times its driven. And I suggest using a decent synthetic oil. The factory normally shimmed between the head of the pinion and the bearing, so some install kits come with those shims. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigitalBman Posted May 18, 2017 Author Share Posted May 18, 2017 Yup, 12-15 in-lbs of preload, 6-10 thou of backlash. Having to really hammer the carrier in is a good thing, it sounds like you've got it right. Just avoid the first drive being a long stint on the highway, it's going to make some heat the first couple times its driven. And I suggest using a decent synthetic oil. The factory normally shimmed between the head of the pinion and the bearing, so some install kits come with those shims. My current specs are: Pinion Nut - 250 ft lbs Pinion Preload - 15 in lbs RG Backlash - .008 How much should the preload increase with the carrier installed? about 5 - 10 in lbs? That is what i have read on a couple different places. To increase this load, simply increase the carrier preload by adding more shims right? Okay! That makes since about the factory shimming there. I planned on using Lucas gear oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 18, 2017 Share Posted May 18, 2017 I never check preload once the carrier is in. I have no idea what it would be, and I'm not sure it's a very valid measurement at that point. I just add shims equally to each side until it's quite difficult to hammer the carrier in with my large deadblow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigitalBman Posted May 19, 2017 Author Share Posted May 19, 2017 I never check preload once the carrier is in. I have no idea what it would be, and I'm not sure it's a very valid measurement at that point. I just add shims equally to each side until it's quite difficult to hammer the carrier in with my large deadblow. How much does pinion preload matter? What are the reprocutions if it's less than 10 inch pounds? Obviously, if it's tight it increases friction and therefore heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 19, 2017 Share Posted May 19, 2017 If there is too little initial preload, as the bearings/races wear in there will be no preload and/or actual slop. That will allow for the pinion to deflect away from the ring gear much more under load, which will cause the actual contact pattern to move up to the top of the teeth, which may lead to a failure of the gear set. It will also decrease the bearing capacity of the pinion bearings, as it will result in them being loaded much more unequally, which will lead to a failure of the pinion bearings and potentially the gear set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigitalBman Posted May 19, 2017 Author Share Posted May 19, 2017 Whatcha think? This is after adding 10 thou to the pinion depth and 5 thou to the carrier shims. My backlash is .006, so it's right on the edge.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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