desbennett004 Posted January 6, 2017 Posted January 6, 2017 Hi guys, Just put 5.5" RE coils in the front of my MJ this morning, I got it back on the ground and found its cocked over to the drivers side between 1 and 2 inches. Anyone had this problem? I have aftermarket bent LCA'S in it, are they directional/ offset? I can't see any other reason for it. I can try unbolt the sway bar after work, but does anyone have any ideas? TIA Drivers side. Passenger side. Drivers LCA Passenger LCA. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk
jeeptruck636 Posted January 6, 2017 Posted January 6, 2017 Most likley you will need a adjustable track bar if you don't have one already. With that much lift, the track bar gets too short and pulls the axle towards the drivers side.
Eagle Posted January 6, 2017 Posted January 6, 2017 This is why they make adjustable track bars. That's what you need, and with a 5-1/2-inch lift make sure you get a good one.
desbennett004 Posted January 6, 2017 Author Posted January 6, 2017 If I was to lengthen my existing track bar, what do you think would be the best way to get the final measurement? I'm thinking of cutting, sleeving and welding, so I'm guessing with wheels on the ground, and axle centered under the rig, that would give me the track bar measurement I need? Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk
Jeepman Posted January 6, 2017 Posted January 6, 2017 If I was to lengthen my existing track bar, what do you think would be the best way to get the final measurement? I'm thinking of cutting, sleeving and welding, so I'm guessing with wheels on the ground, and axle centered under the rig, that would give me the track bar measurement I need? Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk If you can do this then just order the builder parts and make a proper track bar otherwise Just order one new already made for your application they are not expensive
Pete M Posted January 6, 2017 Posted January 6, 2017 I think 5" of lift might be pushing the limits of travel for the factory tie-rod joint. :dunno:
desbennett004 Posted January 6, 2017 Author Posted January 6, 2017 Ok thanks for the input guys, I appreciate it. Just got a local price for an adjustable track bar, $225. Might chop the one I have, just to try it out, if the geometry is too messed up, I'll bite the bullet and buy an adjustable. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk
DirtyComanche Posted January 7, 2017 Posted January 7, 2017 The stock track bar is a total POS. Throw it out. You need a HD replacement and you want one with a HD bracket. I don't know who makes a good one in this day and age, but probably RE... Also, be prepared to do an alignment.
Eagle Posted January 7, 2017 Posted January 7, 2017 Keep in mind that it's probably illegal to cut and weld your track bar. Get in an accident with a home-modified part like that and kiss your insurance goodbye.
ComancheKid45 Posted January 7, 2017 Posted January 7, 2017 Iron Rock Off-road, double shear....You'll be set.
desbennett004 Posted January 7, 2017 Author Posted January 7, 2017 I chopped the track bar yesterday, it was short by a couple inches. I found 1" black gas pipe makes a tight interference fit over the track bar. My track bar is solid, I've seen other guys modify theirs, and theirs are hollow. Not sure why the difference. I didn't get to finish it, had to get my truck off the hoist to change the shift fork in my sister-in-law's chevy tracker. Will post more pics when it's done. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk
desbennett004 Posted January 7, 2017 Author Posted January 7, 2017 That's how much the track bar was short after I chopped it. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk
Eagle Posted January 7, 2017 Posted January 7, 2017 I chopped the track bar yesterday, it was short by a couple inches. I found 1" black gas pipe makes a tight interference fit over the track bar. My track bar is solid, I've seen other guys modify theirs, and theirs are hollow. Not sure why the difference. I didn't get to finish it, had to get my truck off the hoist to change the shift fork in my sister-in-law's chevy tracker. Will post more pics when it's done. Rusty's adjustable track bar is hollow tubing. I've lost track of how many I've seen or heard about that failed in any of a number of ways on the trail. The reason for the difference is $$$.
desbennett004 Posted January 7, 2017 Author Posted January 7, 2017 I've seen build threads of guys making their stock bars adjustable, they chop them and tap the tube, and add threaded rod and jam nuts. So I guess some XJ'S / MJ'S might have come with hollow track bars? Mine is solid anyhow. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk
Eagle Posted January 7, 2017 Posted January 7, 2017 I've seen build threads of guys making their stock bars adjustable, they chop them and tap the tube, and add threaded rod and jam nuts. So I guess some XJ'S / MJ'S might have come with hollow track bars? Mine is solid anyhow. No, they did not. Factory track bars were all solid. I have owned everything from an '84 XJ (the first year) to a 2001 XJ (the last year). ALL factory track bars were solid.
desbennett004 Posted January 7, 2017 Author Posted January 7, 2017 Maybe it was a GC track bar thread I was looking at.... Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk
Incommando Posted January 8, 2017 Posted January 8, 2017 Some cheaper kits like rough country include instructions for re-drilling the lower tracbar mount to compensate for the lift. I personally would just get an adjustable but maybe someone saved the instructions for how to do that mod instead if you want to go that route
desbennett004 Posted January 8, 2017 Author Posted January 8, 2017 I looked at that, I don't think there is enough benifit in doing that personally. You can only move it over 3/4" and I'm extending my bar already anyway. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk
Eagle Posted January 8, 2017 Posted January 8, 2017 Some cheaper kits like rough country include instructions for re-drilling the lower tracbar mount to compensate for the lift. I personally would just get an adjustable but maybe someone saved the instructions for how to do that mod instead if you want to go that route That's only good for up to about a 4-inch lift. Any more than that and you run out of real estate on the bracket.
desbennett004 Posted January 9, 2017 Author Posted January 9, 2017 welded a section of schedule 40 Gas Pipe into my Track Bar. This is how she sits. Haven't driven it yet, so not sure how it steers, probably will put a pitman arm out of a ZJ in it to change the drag link angle, then get an alignment. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk
Eagle Posted January 9, 2017 Posted January 9, 2017 welded a section of schedule 40 Gas Pipe into my Track Bar. This is how she sits. Haven't driven it yet, so not sure how it steers, probably will put a pitman arm out of a ZJ in it to change the drag link angle, then get an alignment. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk Don't drop the pitman arm unless you also drop the frame end of the track bar. To avoid bump steer, the track bar and the drag link need to be at the same angle. Not by looking at it, since the track bar has that big bend in it, but the direct line between the two end fittings of each bar.
desbennett004 Posted January 9, 2017 Author Posted January 9, 2017 Thanks for the info, they are both running parallel, it's just the tie rod end on the drag link has a little more angle than I would like. If I drop one, I will definitely drop them both. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk
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