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Need help -- URGENT!


Eagle
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I don't know if they'll accept any values other than whatever book they use. My argument is that mine has zero rust, has never seen salted, winter roads, and has exceptionally low mileage, so I would have to look all over the country to find anything even remotely comparable. I don't know if the argument will work, but it's the only argument I have, so I have to play it.

Have the insurance company find another jeep exactly like yours for the money they want to give you , bet you they won't , they'll give you some reasons why they won't . I thought insurance companies were supposed to get you to the point you were before the accident ...

 

That used to be what they were supposed to do.  The primary objective for all modern insurance company's is to determine how to pay out as little as possible (or nothing at all) by finding whatever loophole they can.

 

 

Yes, but I offered to effectively increase my deductible so the insurance company would pay less and I could keep my Jeep with a clean title ... and they refused. If I can't convince them to assign it a higher value ... I'm screwed.

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Good luck man. I just dealt with this. My Cummins was totalled and I got paid $26,694 for an 07 5.9 with 139k on it. I got tired of arguing and wasting my time. Not a single truck anywhere near here was less than $35k. That's why we went to SLC to get the new truck. I dropped that company and now have agreed value coverage on the LB Mega Cab. I hope nothing happens to this truck but if it does I will have enough money to buy whatever truck I want.

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Good luck man. I just dealt with this. My Cummins was totalled and I got paid $26,694 for an 07 5.9 with 139k on it. I got tired of arguing and wasting my time. Not a single truck anywhere near here was less than $35k. That's why we went to SLC to get the new truck. I dropped that company and now have agreed value coverage on the LB Mega Cab. I hope nothing happens to this truck but if it does I will have enough money to buy whatever truck I want.

 

So Bo, which company provides agreed value coverage for a car/truck in daily use?

 

Also, what was your cost for what agreed value - if you don't mind sharing.

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Eagle,

 

I don't know what the rules are in Conn.  BUT, I strongly doubt that any insurance company has the SOLE right to  decide what the fair market value is for anything with out some recourse when there is a difference of opinion.

 

Example, here in California, one TDI club member recently took his insurance company to arbitration over the car value, the arbitration panel could not agree on a value, so they set up another arbitration panel who did settle on a value that was 3 times what the insurance company "thought" was fair market value.  Now, this TDI club member was very persistent and put out several hundred dollars in appraisal fees, but got a much more reasonable value than the company offered.

 

Insurance companies count on the insured getting tired of the process and eventually, just taking what they are offered and moving on.  Most of the time they win!

 

Your state's insurance commissioner office should be able to tell you what the process is IF your insurance company is unwilling to inform you.

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No company insures daily drivers for agreed values. Progressive, GEICO and a couple others will allow you to drive so many miles a year though. You must also provide receipts/proof and pictures of all your mods to get them covered. As of right now Meg is covered for $45k and I only use it once in awhile for pleasure.

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No company insures daily drivers for agreed values. Progressive, GEICO and a couple others will allow you to drive so many miles a year though. You must also provide receipts/proof and pictures of all your mods to get them covered. As of right now Meg is covered for $45k and I only use it once in awhile for pleasure.

 

That is what I thought. 

 

I use Haggerty  to insure my 69 Corvair Convertible with 24K original miles. Cost me about $240 for 20K coverage with no miles limitation.  The same pleasure use restriction.  Provided a ton of pictures also prior to coverage.

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Finally some good news. I made enough noise that the company sent their head appraiser (for this state) to the shop to review the damage, and the claim. He found that the rep handling the claim hadn't done a detailed valuation on the vehicle. He asked if I had the original window sticker, which I didn't, but I was able to get a build sheet from the dealer and I sent that to him. He submitted that to a company theu use for valuations, and that increased the value by a few hundred $$. And in going over the repair estimate with the shop, he found they had checked a box to remove and replace a part that didn't need to be replaced -- it should have been remove and reinstall. So that lowered the repair estimate by $300.

 

The combination means they're going to repair it, not total it. I am relieved.

 

But the repair covers the collision damage, not the brakes. So, once it has been repaired, I'll have it flat-bedded home, and when the weather gets decent (or when I get a garage cleared out), I'll do the brakes. Lesson learned -- I'll use stainless steel tubing, and silicone brake fluid.

 

Bookmark this for future reference:

 

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Stainless-Steel-Brake-Line-Coil-Coil-Kits/1351510/10002/-1

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Agree. If the shop who is doing the repair is good, just for grins see if you can cut a deal for the brake lines while it's there in the shop. Will save you some hassle........

 

Nope. Not even going to ask. In addition to wanting to use stainless, I've seen what shops do when replacing brake lines. I don't want any part of it. I'll do it myself because that's the only way I can be certain the new lines are bent as nearly as possible to be the same configuration as the originals. At this point in my life. there is only one other person I'd trust to work on the brakes on any of my vehicles, and he doesn't work for that dealership.

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Passenger front line is a real b*@$£ to get right.

The rest aren't to bad.

Classic tube sells a set of prebent stainless lines for $240. I don't know anything about them though.

 

Agreed, the right front is the most difficult.

 

Dunno about Classic Tube. I bought a set from them for the rear axle of an MJ with a Dana 44, and what I received wasn't even close. Also not remotely like an MJ (or XK) Dana 35. Only thing I could think of was that maybe they were for a full-size Cherokee with a Dana 44 -- but why would the brake lines be different on that? They finally made good on it, IIRC on the third attempt, but that required my sending them the old lines to use as a pattern. I can do as well as they did for a lot less money.

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As of right now Meg is covered for $45k and I only use it once in awhile for pleasure.

 

may not be as funny if ya don't watch Top Gear, but I couldn't resist...   :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

 

CgmW2Xg.gif

 

 

(that's Richard Hammond when he got to drive a tank)

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Passenger front line is a real b*@$£ to get right.

The rest aren't to bad.

Classic tube sells a set of prebent stainless lines for $240. I don't know anything about them though.

 

Agreed, the right front is the most difficult.

 

Dunno about Classic Tube. I bought a set from them for the rear axle of an MJ with a Dana 44, and what I received wasn't even close. Also not remotely like an MJ (or XK) Dana 35. Only thing I could think of was that maybe they were for a full-size Cherokee with a Dana 44 -- but why would the brake lines be different on that? They finally made good on it, IIRC on the third attempt, but that required my sending them the old lines to use as a pattern. I can do as well as they did for a lot less money.

 

I'll back up your experience with Classic Tube.  Several years ago I bought a '99 XJ for a quick flip and needed a bunch of the brakes lines replaced and someone on NAXJA turned me on to that company.  It seemed like a slam dunk that would have helped me repair and move the XJ quicker, but some of the brake lines didn't quite fit as was advertised on their website..."to match factory installation."  At the end of the day I was able to get the brake lines to work with a little bit of modification, but I felt I shouldn't have had to do that as I could have fabricated my own lines for a fraction of the cost.

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