HOrnbrod Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 The headlamp relay harness is always a good upgrade even with the stock sealed beams, agree 100% with that. But even the genuine E-code Hella housings (and for sure the crappy Autopal junk or whatever they are called) with 80/100 H4 halogens or more and the harness don't compare to a quality set of LED head lamps. It's all about $$ I know, but it's the best lighting upgrade for our MJs IMO. Anyone need some nice Hella E-code housings with bulbs? :yes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a bum with money Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 been following this thread now since its getting educational, one of my week points is 12VDC. with that being said, would the same math apply on anything? pulling low/high voltage? my reason for asking is my t/s have always been a little slow (in my opinion anyway). if I check voltage at the 1157/1156 socket ( or at any end point for that matter) that will give me the necessary info to diagnose a problem, bad wire, ground, small wiring, and etc.( if one exists) It would seem that 12.5 VDC would be the norm? not including lower voltages of course. :) bryce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 Hi Bryce, Electric theory was something that always puzzled me. It's just one of those things where you struggle with it, and try to understand it, and then all of a sudden something clicks and it all makes perfect sense. First, a 12 V system is not really 12 V. If you put a voltmeter on a battery, fully charged, the voltage will be approximately 12.8 V. When the vehicle is running, the alternator will boost voltage up to about 13.5. Load up the electrical system, headlights and blower motor, and voltage will fall below the 13.5. When cranking the engine, voltage may be below 10. Second, and this point has been well made many times, don't forget the ground half of the circuit. One half of the circuit is from the battery out to the electrical load. This may include fuses, switches, relays, and one or more splices. Any of these can develop corrosion, the corrosion will put resistance at that point, that resistance will drop the voltage available downstream from this, and generate heat at that point. Once electricity has flowed through the load, it then has to get back to the battery. In your home wiring systems, their are two wires, so the return is simple. Automotively, electricity flows through a short wire to a piece of metal on the vehicle frame, then travels back through the vehicle frame to the negative post on the battery. So think about that part of the circuit. Maybe the ground wire, where it's fastened to metal of the body or frame, has developed corrosion. Maybe, as electricity travels back to the frame, there's corrosion at the negative battery terminal. And, especially problematic on the Renix, the body ground return has to go through a small ground wire to get back to the engine block, to get back to the battery ground terminal, to get back to the battery. This is why Cruiser, among others, makes such a big deal about making sure the ground half of the circuit is addressed. Hope this helps. Gene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 I have a love-hate relationship with electrics. My favorite thing about electrical DC is that the conventional current states power goes from + to -. Actual electron flow is - to +. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 Hi everyone, newbie here. What about a voltage drop test on the ground side of any circuit needing testing. Connect one lead of the VM to the ground side (point of ground) of the circuit being tested and the other lead to the post of the negative side of the battery. Select your lowest voltage scale on the VM. 0vdc is a perfect reading and ground is not your problem. Any reading higher then that indicates issues. Keep in mind this does not cover a vehicle moving (twisting & bending) down the road. You would need to leave the VM hookup for a road test. Now on the lights, jeeps are not the softest in rides, but on-off, off-on, on-off, heats and cools the bulbs many times. This is hard on them. Thermo shock can ruin any light bulb (filament). I like electron flow (- to +). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 My Comanche rides better than my Crown Victoria did. Admittedly, I ran P71 spec lowering springs on the front (not known to be comfy), but I would hardly call my Comanche a harsh ride by any means. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 P71 springs are taller, no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnj92131 Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 My Comanche rides better than my Crown Victoria did. Admittedly, I ran P71 spec lowering springs on the front (not known to be comfy), but I would hardly call my Comanche a harsh ride by any means. My Comanche rides like a TRUCK - nothing like a Crown Vic. I have 2 additional overload leafs on the rear in addition to the factory BigTon/MetricTon 5 leaf springs. But I have put a pallet with 60 54lbs blocks in the back of the truck without bottoming out. That was 3300 lbs with the pallet. Could not do that with any Crown Vic! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 My Comanche rides better than my Crown Victoria did. Admittedly, I ran P71 spec lowering springs on the front (not known to be comfy), but I would hardly call my Comanche a harsh ride by any means. What does this have to do with a headlight harness upgrade? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 My Comanche rides better than my Crown Victoria did. Admittedly, I ran P71 spec lowering springs on the front (not known to be comfy), but I would hardly call my Comanche a harsh ride by any means. What does this have to do with a headlight harness upgrade? Answer Now on the lights, jeeps are not the softest in rides, but on-off, off-on, on-off, heats and cools the bulbs many times. This is hard on them. Thermo shock can ruin any light bulb (filament). Just in case you skipped it the first time. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 P71 springs are taller, no? No, just higher rate. Side effect is they sit higher. My Comanche rides better than my Crown Victoria did. Admittedly, I ran P71 spec lowering springs on the front (not known to be comfy), but I would hardly call my Comanche a harsh ride by any means. My Comanche rides like a TRUCK - nothing like a Crown Vic. I have 2 additional overload leafs on the rear in addition to the factory BigTon/MetricTon 5 leaf springs. But I have put a pallet with 60 54lbs blocks in the back of the truck without bottoming out. That was 3300 lbs with the pallet. Could not do that with any Crown Vic! The rear of my comanche rides like a truck. the front...where the headlights are located on most vehicles...., is way softer than my Crown Vic was. ;) Anyway, sorry if I drug this off topic somehow. Back on track! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikekaz1 Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 I used to have an actual p71, they are very firm. but handle fantastic for a full size car. I could corner with the best of the tuners. even at 4000lbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stump Posted November 11, 2017 Share Posted November 11, 2017 I just installed the putco harness in my 89 Comanche. Low beams work great, but when I click on the high beams I get no headlamps at all. All other running lights work. Any ideas? On the drivers side, I plugged lamp into new harness and left the old plug dangling. On the passenger side, I connected the old plug to the male plug on the new harness and the headlamp to the new female plug. Plugged in new relays and connected red wires to the battery. I haven't read of anyone else with this problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted November 11, 2017 Share Posted November 11, 2017 Check the relays, Putco relays aren't exactly high end (or even low end). Swap relays and see it it changes anything. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stump Posted November 11, 2017 Share Posted November 11, 2017 Never mind ! I found the bad connection in the passenger side plug. I should have paid better attention ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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