onlyinajeep726 Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 I'm sure this question has been brought up before, and I have found some info via Google, but I wanted to ask y'all for your opinions.I have a set of Turbines that I plan to clean up and may eventually use when I lift my MJ (SOA rear and matching front). I will likely try to run 33's when I do that. So, wheel spacers or aftermarket rims with less backspacing?I've heard spacers eat up wheel bearings, but logically, it seems to me that less backspacing would exert the same stresses on the bearings as spacing out OEM rims. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 I wouldn't think they are just as safe as stock setup, but I've been running them 6 months no issues. I first bought some el cheapo set off of eBay, but after research bought a set of spidertrax 1.25" off CL for cheap. No complaints,good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 As far as eating wheel bearings no dice as of yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Eating bearing is pure BS. As for them being safer or not? No less safer than buying cheap POS aftermarket wheels.....both are aluminum, both act as a wheel center/hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Keep in mind that the recommended wheel width size for 33" tires is 8.5" - 11". The turbine wheels are only 7" wide. As much as I like the turbine wheels, I'd go with something wider, or have them widened ($$$). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitroxsteve Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 I agree spacers are no harder on bearings than wheels with less back space. My question would be how wide are the33's you want to run and will they fit ok on the stock wheels width. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitroxsteve Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 I agree spacers are no harder on bearings than wheels with less back space. My question would be how wide are the33's you want to run and will they fit ok on the stock wheels width. he beat me to the width question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted January 3, 2015 Author Share Posted January 3, 2015 Ok, thanks for the info guys. Don, you brought up a valid point that I seemed to have overlooked. Perhaps I'll just stick with aftermarket rims. I do love me some Turbines though... Also, the more I think about it, spacers make brake jobs a little more time consuming since you have to undo twice the amount of lugs lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Also, the more I think about it, spacers make brake jobs a little more time consuming since you have to undo twice the amount of lugs lol. Not if you convert to rear disk brakes. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wesleypipesyo Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 The problem with wheel spacers is that you have a second set of lug nuts to worry about. Myself and a buddy have lost wheels because the wheel spacer came loose. It is recommended that you pull the wheels off every couple of thousand miles and retighten the lug nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 I've put over 50K miles on 4 Spidertrax spacers on my TJ and have never had an issue with them. If a quality spacer is installed correctly, they are perfectly safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeepman Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Some 2000+ Mustangs come from the factory with Spacers so I see no issue with them nor have I ever had any issues with them... Usually the ones with issues are the ones that were not installed correctly ie: not torqued down properly or the surface area was not clean and flat which allows an improper tightening... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wesleypipesyo Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 I used alloy USA spacers. They came off. Not sure about what my buddy had. His was a trail use one jeep. Mine was a WK. I used it as an excuse to rotate the tires at oil changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted January 3, 2015 Author Share Posted January 3, 2015 Not if you convert to rear disk brakes. :thumbsup: That is actually going to be a distinct possibility. I'm looking for a Ford 8.8 from an '95+ Exploder to get rid of the D35 I currently have. At that time, I will be doing the SOA rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 You can always go with racing studs, 2" or 2.5" or whatever is required. Straight through the spacer to the wheel. I considered this and may still if I ever have to pull the axles again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wesleypipesyo Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 You can always go with racing studs, 2" or 2.5" or whatever is required. Straight through the spacer to the wheel. I considered this and may still if I ever have to pull the axles again. Interesting idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 I used alloy USA spacers. They came off. Not sure about what my buddy had. His was a trail use one jeep. Mine was a WK. I used it as an excuse to rotate the tires at oil changes. I honestly do not believe that is the product but the install. I used that same brand for 90K miles on a KJ with no issues. At 4,500 #'s that jeep was much heavier than your average MJ and it also had both more turque and horsepower than a factory MJ 4.0, all of which are factors on the forces that would effect the spacers/lugs/nuts. As the jeep was a stick and I am immature I abused that jeep horribly with dumping the clutch on-road and being silly off-road. I have used these spacers numerous times. In fact I and the three guys I wheel with all use them with no failures and no problems with them loosening. One XJ has had them on for 110,000 miles. As you and your friend both had issues and the same people probably installed them in the same manner I would look to that for the answer to the failures. Although youtube videos exist of various spacers failing I have never personally seen it nor spoken to anyone who has personally seen.... it is all that " Well they say..." crap. Sure it happens but the realistic risk is very low and no worse than the most other components, IMHO. The other big lie is that they cause bearing failures when, as pointed out above, they do not put any more pressure on the bearings than changing the back-spacing with aftermarket rims. You stand no more chance of shearing the spacer's lugs than you do of shearing the factory ones. Yes it happens to both. Usually it is because of the lugs being improperly installed and that is whether they are coming through a bearing or a spacer. But you can break anything in the right conditions. These are the exact spacers that I used: http://www.jeep4x4center.com/alloy-usa-wheel-spacer-pair-red-5-on-4-5-bolt-pattern-1-2-thick-all-11301.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 You can always go with racing studs, 2" or 2.5" or whatever is required. Straight through the spacer to the wheel. I considered this and may still if I ever have to pull the axles again. I think the leverage on each stud would be less by using ten shorter studs then 5 long studs. In drag racing the long studs are required for visual inspection reasons. The studs sticking through an open nut shows instantly that the studs are present and are at least engaged the minimum amount. In that manner the leverage on the long stud is no greater than on a short stud as the nut still secures the wheel at the same distance from the base of the stud. That is the fulcrum of the leverage and again it is not changed when used in the prescribed manner. Mounting the lugs further out would increase the leverage. Especially as the hole in the spacer is wider than the stud and the stud would be unsupported for the width of the spacer where that does not occur in either the stock configuration or using ten studs as you do with spacers. You would be more likely to shear studs by using the longer studs for that reason. Look below: the space between the black mounting surface and blue lug nut is unsupported stud in each example. The first two examples keep the stock unsupported length of any given stud while the longer stud from example three creates a much, much longer unsupported area and an increase in leverage. The increase in leverage would make it more likely to break the stud. IIIIIIII mounting surface wheel lug nut (stock configuration) IIIIIIII mounting surface spacer lug nut IIIIIIII mounting surface wheel lug nut (stock with spacer) IIIIIIIIIIIIIIII mounting surface wheel spacer lug nut (long lug nut) I am not saying that breaking a stud in the last example is guaranteed, just that to some degree it is more likely than the other examples. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benjy_26 Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 I used to air out my ZJ fairly regularly with no ill effects on my Spidertrax spacers. As far as using turbines with wide tires, it can be done, but expect to fiddle with air pressures a bit to get the proper street foot print. I used a set of 15" snowflakes with a set od 32x11.50R15 KM2's on an XJ with no ill effects. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wesleypipesyo Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 It might have been user error on my part. But I used the torque wrench like the destruction manual said too. My point is if I have the choice to use back spacing on the rim or a spacer I am going with back spaced rims. I had a bad experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddFoot Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 he could buy bfg 33 10.50 15s or 34 10.50 15 swampers i don't like the bfgs so id run the 34 10.50 swampers http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Tires-Jeep-Tire-Accessories/34x10-50-15LT-LTB.aspx?t_c=13&t_s=536&t_pt=101509&t_pn=SSTLTB-07&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gp=1&gclid=CO6PuoGV-cICFSho7AodZxgAZg use red locktite on wheel studs for the spacers 80-100ft lbs avg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 You can always go with racing studs, 2" or 2.5" or whatever is required. Straight through the spacer to the wheel. I considered this and may still if I ever have to pull the axles again. I think the leverage on each stud would be less by using ten shorter studs then 5 long studs. In drag racing the long studs are required for visual inspection reasons. The studs sticking through an open nut shows instantly that the studs are present and are at least engaged the minimum amount. In that manner the leverage on the long stud is no greater than on a short stud as the nut still secures the wheel at the same distance from the base of the stud. That is the fulcrum of the leverage and again it is not changed when used in the prescribed manner. Mounting the lugs further out would increase the leverage. Especially as the hole in the spacer is wider than the stud and the stud would be unsupported for the width of the spacer where that does not occur in either the stock configuration or using ten studs as you do with spacers. You would be more likely to shear studs by using the longer studs for that reason. Look below: the space between the black mounting surface and blue lug nut is unsupported stud in each example. The first two examples keep the stock unsupported length of any given stud while the longer stud from example three creates a much, much longer unsupported area and an increase in leverage. The increase in leverage would make it more likely to break the stud. IIIIIIII mounting surface wheel lug nut (stock configuration) IIIIIIII mounting surface spacer lug nut IIIIIIII mounting surface wheel lug nut (stock with spacer) IIIIIIIIIIIIIIII mounting surface wheel spacer lug nut (long lug nut) I am not saying that breaking a stud in the last example is guaranteed, just that to some degree it is more likely than the other examples. Common among racers......look it up. Also, I'd bolt the spacer on the hub with long studs and then bolt the wheel onto the the long stud........stud will not stress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted January 4, 2015 Author Share Posted January 4, 2015 This got in depth real quick! But this is good info for sure. I'm sure it's a ways out for me till I get the MJ lifted and equipped with larger tires, but I'm glad I am able to depend on y'all for answers. Thanks a ton, guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue XJ Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Keep in mind that the recommended wheel width size for 33" tires is 8.5" - 11". The turbine wheels are only 7" wide. As much as I like the turbine wheels, I'd go with something wider, or have them widened ($$$). X2, 7" is too narrow to run a 33" tire, unless they are the skinny ones BFG has. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 ^^ Agree. Forgot about the narrower 33" BFG tires with the 10.5" tire width. The recommended wheel width for those is 7" - 9", so the 7" turbine wheels will work fine for them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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