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Po' Boy's 88


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This really isn't the way I envisioned starting my non-build build thread, however, I'm so excited with my accomplishment this weekend that I have to start here first.

 

I'm in the middle of an engine build and I'm taking my time with it, I really want it to look like I did. As with all our inline engines half the head bolts are exposed and I wanted mine to appear finished, zinc electro plating. I also plated my header washers and dist clamp and dampener washer.

 

Link to instructions are here- http://home.comcast.net/~rt66tbird/website/zincplating.html

 

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More pics upcoming as build proceeds.

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Looks great. I like the attention to detail. Very much. :cheers:

 

My engine is a crate engine so can't do it until it breaks - would if I could. But you have given me some ideas with the take-off stuff. I am slowly replacing the rusted factory underhood bolts and nuts with stainless Allen head cap screws and nuts, including the valve cover bolts, fender bolts, radiator bracket bolts, firewall bolts and nuts, etc. etc. Anal maximus I guess..............

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  • 2 weeks later...

Several weeks back I had ordered a 91-94 intake that I planned on converting to TBI and using.  The only plugs/set screws I could find that were beyond 1/2" were 5/8, 3/8" pipe thread tap is the same thread as the 5/8" set screw but you can see here that I ran the drill bit too deep and destroyed the intake-

 

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The second one I ordered arrived yesterday, you can see that even though they fit the same years that they are different castings, the one in the rear is more suited for an adapter plate. Plus there were two casting flaws in the first intake anyway, worked out well in the end-

 

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I ended up using 9/16x18 set screws, this way I did not have to drill out the injector holes. 9/16x18 are damn near impossible to find and when you do they are expensive. A bottom tap was not available to me so I bought a taper tap and a plug tap, the plug tap I cut down to a bottom tap, worked out perfect-

 

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you do good work. I like it. I just picked up an 86 2wd with a 2.5 in it, and of course have bug plans. I got it for a song cause the PO said it died on him and he wasn't a mechanic. it's only got 174,000 on it, but seems to not be getting any fire, and no injector pulse. any clue where to start on that one? where did you get your header?

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm very impressed with Harland Sharp's product, even the packaging is professional.

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New Dayco balancer installed, new starter, loaded with Royal Purple break-in oil and pump has been primed and distributor indexed.

The only thing I have left is remove the VC from my current engine and blast and paint, otherwise the engine is ready for install.

 

 

Got this little jewel the other day. :)

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I got rid of my OE canister, beginning to prep the engine bay for the new engine.

 

I used an A/C line muffler as a canister. I cut off the aluminum lines, drilled and tapped the lower for 3/8 and the upper for 1/4" fittings. I filled the canister about 90% full with activated carbon, I shook it with each fill to fill in around the baffles that are inside. I used bronze wool behind each fitting to filter the fittings from the activated carbon.

I'll mount the canister on the bed support rail just behind the gas tank.

 

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Crappy night time pics, but the Core/Hurst short shifter is the $#!&. :)

 

New carpet and boots are on the way.

 

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What did you do for the transfer case shifter? I like that the shift knobs match. I am not going to lie, I would like to steal your idea so my transfercase shifter will match my hurst shifter as well.

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How do the general springs ride? 

 

Also, what kind of rear swaybar set up are you using? It seems shorter than the WJ bar in Hornbrod's rear swaybar DIY. Could it be an XJ rear swaybar? Did you make your own framebrackets?

 

I'm excited to see the newly built engine go in!

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