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Thanks for the compliments, its starting to come together but there is a lot more to do.

 

When I get the lift done I will start on the rock sliders. roll cage and then the front winch bumper.

 

Before I can get to any off that I have to install the ARB compressor and plumb the air lines for the lockers. I need to install the center console, mount the spare tire carrier and get a storage box for the bed to hold all the gear.

 

Yeah lots to still do.

 

Ron

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I used an old army foot locker for my bed box and mounted my spare between it and my roll cage..... I cut slots inside the box to hold my spare axles and keep them dry and out of the weather.... if you get a chance chase my link and check it out....  keep up the great work and I look forward to seeing those ARB in some action shots....

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Thanks for the information.

 

I like the TNT long arm set up it keeps everything tucked up nice and tight to the belly of the truck.  There are some systems that hang down a couple of inches which kind of defeats the purpose of a lift.  Also the lower control arms are bent to allow for more ground clearance and they tubes are very sturdy.

 

I am not a fan of the Bushwacker flares as we have some really tight trails and I have seen them ripped off of other rigs or if you press against trees or other hard objects they don't offer much protection.  I may clearance the fenders as needed and then build some tube fenders which will give good coverage and still offer protection.

 

The Army footlocker is a neat idea but with the rain we get in Washington I would need a good weather tight metal box with good seals.  I will probably buy one that will sit in the bed and go from rail to rail such as a Weather guard or Dee Zee type box.  I need to bed line the truck bed first with some spray in type bed liner.

 

Ron

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I did not weigh them but I would guess between 55 and 70 pounds but I'm not sure.  The tire weight is listed on the Cooper web site and the wheels are about 20 lbs.

 

Hope this helps,

 

 

Ron

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Did some work on the Comanche today.  I put the rear axle back in hopefully for the final time.  I installed the new painted Diff Covers, got the brake rotors and calipers put back on and secured the soft lines to the axle.  Because of the truss I think I am just going to buy a new hard line instead of attempting to make the old hard line work.  It fits but it looks funky and its too long for the space that I have.  I then started working on modifying the emergency brake cables to fit the Ford 8,8 axle that's under the truck now.

 

I pulled a proportioning valve from a 97 XJ today at the scrap yard so I could eliminate the load sensing brake line that I will not be using.  I was also looking for a WJ brake booster for the truck because with regular sized tires the brakes did not feel all that great.

 

My new center console came in yesterday from Tuffy.  I plan on getting it installed tomorrow if everything goes like I hope.

 

I have my rear driveshaft on order and I expect it any day.  I also have Lower Bar Pin Eliminators and Upper Shock Conversion kit from JKS that are supposed to be here Thursday.  I have a feeling these may be late do to the weather back East. 

 

I have two friends, Willy and Keith, coming over on Saturday so I am hoping we can get the front axle all dialed in and some of the other little things worked out.  I'm itching to start building the rock sliders and then a front bumper for the truck.

 

I will try to take some photos and get them posted.

 

Ron

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Hey Ron,

 

Glad to see your build on here. Great meeting you last year, even though you had me sweating for a minute....haha. Truck looks great, and of course I feel you made the perfect tire choice. Keep the build going and the pictures coming.

 

Cheers, Jason G.

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First shock in.  I was told the shock can go either way so I'm not sure which way I will mount it.  What is your opinion valve body up or down?

 

I mounted mine body down.  This allowed me to zip tie the brake line to the shock body to prevent it from flying around and getting caught on anything.  I left enough slack on the caliper side to allow for turning left and right and left the rest of the slack for the suspension to cycle up and down.

 

Willy

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Dscowell,

 

For the front I just cut them for the rear because of the spot welds it will be a cut and fold. I used a cutoff wheel on a 41/2 inch grinder and it went pretty easy. There are two braces inn the front you might want to take out depending on what tire your running and how aggressive your cut is. Also take the horn off and relocate it somewhere else so the tire doesn't remove it for you.

 

I taped it off first and then marked it with a marker. The tape protects the paint so you don't get a lot of chipping.

 

 

Ron

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Zack,

 

I do not have one at this time but it is something that I want to build. 

 

The tank does seem vulnerable where it is at and I don't think the factory skid plate will do all that much.  Having said that I always wanted one for my Wrangler but never got around to buying/building one and it did OK.  I did have to take the factory skid off after running Fordyce Creek and pound some dents out of it.

 

I have it on the list to do but I am not sure when I will be able to get to it.

 

If you build a good one for yours can you make two and give the other one to me?  LOL

 

Ron

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I was worried about running a factory skid at first but after Harlan and IVY and everything in between I've come to trust it..... I eventually plan to put a fuel cell in the bed but now I've moved that mod further down the list.....

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Eliminator, thanks its been a lot of fun so far.  What model 92 did you have and where is it now?

 

Jbain, the factory skid in mine is made from plastic that I can bend with my hand.  I am worried that some good rocks my tear the gas tank.  I don't know what Harlan and Ivy are but I am assuming they are some good trails around your area.  I would like to go back east and run some trails sometime.

 

Thanks for the comments,

 

Ron

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