Branching Out From Eliminators..... My Metric Ton Dually Build.

[yellaheep]

Reception in most other automotive circles I run in has been fairly cold to this project......... but I don't care.  I'm building the damn thing!  :D

 

We've all seen the threads of seemingly super rare long bed dually MJ's out there.  While Jeep never made these, most were owner built from JC Whitney fender and wheel adaptor kits, or were a dealer installed package.  No Jeep part numbers appear to exist for the fenders, spacers or wheels that have been seen on these trucks.  Regardless...... I've REALLY wanted one.  I'm a sucker for rare "I've never seen one of those before" kinds of vehicles.

 

So when one of the club members posted that pic of the red dually languishing in the junkyard with those fenders....... I went full on bonkers crazy.

 

With the help of CC members and NAXJA members, those fenders were saved and will be enroute to me shortly!

 

 

With the "key" parts acquired for this build, I went in search of a more traditional axle to use that wouldn't require the uber expensive spacers to make dual wheels fit on a D44 rear axle.  Drachir's project features these spacers and I had asked the price of the spacers...... yikes. 

 

While certainly "over-kill" for an axle, the Cab & Chassis Dana 60 axles appeared to be nearly perfect as far as width between the inner tires and overall width to fit under the MJ dually fenders.  With this in mind, I hit up Craigslist and found this axle already pulled, complete and what initially appears to be the perfect width for inner and outer. 

 

It's a '94 Ford D60 with 4:10's.  Measures 48.5" inner and 85" outer.  Indeed, that's one massive housing.  I'm hoping it won't present any real issues where it's weight or ring and pinion size are concerned for the 4.0 engine and auto trans that will power this project....... but for $200 it's complete with the e-brake cables and all.........  and all I had to do was help roll it onto my trailer, so I think its worth trying.  Looks like I'll have to flip the spring perches as I don't think I want the truck to be too tall using it as a SOA set up.

 

And no, smart-asses........ the ridiculous leaf packs will not be used for this project.... :D

 

 

 

I know, I know....... where's the project truck?  Um...... still to be acquired.   :nuts:

 

 

[HOrnbrod]

That' sounds like an interesting project you are undertaking. How long are those springs? The MJ leaf packs are 57" eye-to-eye. You might be able to used them if they are close. Instead of an AAL pack, make a SSL pack. (subtract several leafs).

[neohic]

I know, I know....... where's the project truck?  Um...... still to be acquired.   :nuts:

 

Nothing wrong with that! I've found myself a few times picking up parts without any plans for what to do with them at the immediate time. Good luck on this build. I know I'll be watching!  :popcorn:

[yellaheep]

Yeah, I still have to do some more in-depth measuring........ gotta figure out if the inner tires will clear the inside of the bed fender wells. 

 

I have zero interest in trying to re-use any of those leaves from the packs.  The main leaves will be useless as the bolts at all 4 spring eyes are rusted solid in the bushing sleeves.  (Hense the spring mounts having been torched off of the truck).  The rest of the leaf packs are likely WAY wrong in spring rate for use on a light truck.  Don't want it to ride like a buckboard...... 

 

The 16" wheels will give me some good tire size options rather than the odd 16.5" wheels out there. 

 

I believe the major expense for this project is going to be front wheel adaptors for the D30 or 2wd axle the truck will have.  I suppose I could swap in a D44 front, but I don't know if those were ever made with dually hubs.... and even if they were, that'd be a WIDE axle without serious mods......  :dunno:

 

I'm leaning toward a 2wd axle and then swapping in some WJ knuckles and the bigger brakes and WJ steering as well.  That should make for a solid set up.

 

The D60 has shock mounts that can be "adjusted" for position on the axle - just held on by u-bolts.  I can even swap sides and make the mounts to the rear of the axle which should make hanging shocks on this easy.

 

I'm just hoping this rear axle won't be like dragging an anchor........

[yellaheep]

And of course.......... it's not a D60 axle.  It's a Sterling 10.5.  UGH!  Well, I suppose it's not a whole lot different other than a bit more massive than a D60.  I tried to pull up one of those axle I.D. charts before I bought this because I truly didn't think this was a D60.  Unfortunately, the guy's house backs up directly to an air force base and cell signal was almost non-existent.  He parts out big ford trucks and swore up, down and sideways it was a D60....... sure seemed like he shoulda been the guy to know his axles...... :doh:

[johnny quest]

the sterling 10.5 will still do you good.

[buffalob]

Well I will be following this one for sure. You are nothing but addicted obsessive and compulsive (all are meant as compliments mind you).

If there is any help or moral support I can offer just name it........ oh and about that stroker I saw resting out back........

[yellaheep]

Yeah, that stroker might just get re-purposed for the dually build rather than for that '90 Eliminator.......... :D

[buffalob]

Kinda what I saw coming ....good call

Get a decent 91/ 92 HO. Wwe will have to chat though

[dancome433]

Ill be watching this build, Ive been planning to build a dually MJ for a while, but not for another few years, I would like to see how this one works out, and maybe get some ideas from it,

[yellaheep]

Took some more measurements today.......

 

MJ frame rails and fender wells are 45" wide across.  The Sterling with the inner tires mounted (225/75/16's) is 48.5" between the tires.  A little snug but I think 1 3/4" on each side is doable.  If not, a half inch wheel spacer on each side to move the duals outward wouldn't be out of the question.

 

The spring seats are 1.5" each side too far inward to use the axle as SOA.  Which isn't a big deal as I really don't want the truck lifted, so I'll be having to weld on some SUA seats. 

 

The e-brake cables are set up to run on the left side of the frame which requires the right cable to run across the axle making it much too long to use.  But, the short left side cable appears to be a perfect length to be used in the OEM e-brake bracket under the MJ bed, so I can go get a second left side cable and put it on the right side.  Sucks that GETTING to the brake end of those cables is such a project in itself........ lol.

[mvusse]

And of course.......... it's not a D60 axle.  It's a Sterling 10.5.  UGH!  Well, I suppose it's not a whole lot different other than a bit more massive than a D60.  I tried to pull up one of those axle I.D. charts before I bought this because I truly didn't think this was a D60.  Unfortunately, the guy's house backs up directly to an air force base and cell signal was almost non-existent.  He parts out big ford trucks and swore up, down and sideways it was a D60....... sure seemed like he shoulda been the guy to know his axles...... :doh:

I was about to point that out, although it could be either a Sterling 10.25 or 10.5. The housings between the two are identical, as are the carriers. The gears are not, and even though the 10.5 has bit larger ring gear, the 10.25 has a stronger pinion setup, which is the weakest part of these axles.

 

10.5 is 99 and newer, with disc brakes.

10.25 is 98 and older, having drum brakes.

 

The 10.25 also has the near universal 8 on 6.5 bolt pattern, while the 10.5 has the Ford specific metric 8 on 170mm bolt pattern.

[yellaheep]

mvusse, thanks for that info!  This is definitely the 10.25 then as it came from a '94 and has drum brakes.  I highly doubt the pinion strength will EVER be tested if it finds it's way under my project though.... this installation would be like a posh retirement for that axle..... lol.

 

I'm also glad to hear it confirmed that it'll have the 8 on 6.5 lug pattern.  This way I can get the chrome wheel covers from a Dodge DRW 3500 when it comes time to purdy it up.

[jimoshel]

I know, I know....... where's the project truck?  Um...... still to be acquired.   :nuts:

C'mon down. Maybe I can help ya out there.

[yellaheep]

Nothing real exciting to report other than I received the fenders a couple days ago.  No real surprises - a couple chipped edges, a crack and some gel coat damage where the fork lift moving the truck around the yard musta banged up against the fenders.  Massive thanks to Lurch for doing an excellent job of wrapping/boxing these...... coulda sustained further damage otherwise.

 

I'll get with a body guy buddy of mine when I get the project truck and have them fitted, then get the edges and damage fixed. :thumbsup:

 

The gas filler door is an MJ OEM piece, but you can see how the fender makes a bit of a bend... the door has about a 1/4" of bondo piled on top of it to build the contour to match.  I'll have to see what a body guy might suggest to make a custom door for it to keep from having to duplicate that bondo'd one.....

 

I'll also have to figure out a way to stiffen up the wheel opening edges and come up with an inner fender liner of sorts.  Looks like there used to be some sort of fender liner..... wood wedges were glued along the inside edge where something was screwed to the wood.  The wood has since rotted and gone, but you can see where the pieces had been epoxied.

 

[Lurch]

Glad they made it safe, subscribed!

[johnny quest]

any plans to make molds of those?

[mvusse]

mvusse, thanks for that info!  This is definitely the 10.25 then as it came from a '94 and has drum brakes.  I highly doubt the pinion strength will EVER be tested if it finds it's way under my project though.... this installation would be like a posh retirement for that axle..... lol.

 

I'm also glad to hear it confirmed that it'll have the 8 on 6.5 lug pattern.  This way I can get the chrome wheel covers from a Dodge DRW 3500 when it comes time to purdy it up.

 

Late reply, but one more little detail I remembered. The Ford hubs are larger than both Chevy and Dodge. Like 5.5" or so. This means that Chevy and Dodge wheels won't fit even though the bolt pattern is correct, because the center opening of the wheel is too small.

[yellaheep]

Again..... Thanks for the good info! I did not know about the hub size. Glad I didn't buy the Chevy wheels I'd found a few days ago.....

 

 

And no, I won't be trying to make molds. In Drachir's build thread he mentioned the Florida company that has the molds. They'll make you a pair for $700...... I'm into these for $300.

[GHayduke]

Fun build!  I'll be following your build thread :D

[yellaheep]

Ouch........ expensive lesson learned today.........

 

So, thinking it'd save money and be a better option for shipping, I used the shipping account for the company my wife works for - boss approval and all. 

 

When we entered the info for the pick-up from Lurch and used the dimensions and weight he provided, UPS gave the "negotiated rate" price of $39 each fender.

 

Now, initially, I had asked Lurch to just "bubble-wrap the heck outta them" and slap a label on them.  Ultimately, he wrapped them and put them into wardrobe boxes. 

 

Lurch told me this and I expected the rate would go up a bit since the size had increased, but the weight shouldn't have by much since the initial info we'd given was a weight of 30 lbs each (when I got these home, I weighed them - 10 lbs each.)

 

Well, UPS boned me hard. 

 

The size of the wardrobe boxes had to be shipped using their "Dimensional Weight" calculations.  Essentially they charged me $55 each box for "Large Box" size which they say we didn't select when we were given the original negotiated rate.  THEN, they charged $105 for one box and $100 for the other box....... UPS says those boxes "dimensionally weigh" 180 lbs each.  the actual rate was reduced a bit when UPS applied the company's account rate.

 

I now owe $280 to cover the shipping.

 

HOLY BALLZ.  :fs1:

 

"Dimensional Weight"........ what a crock of  :bs:

 

Don't get me wrong, I'm not in the least mad at Lurch.......... but UPS can go smoke a pole.  Neither of those boxed should have weighed more than 40 lbs each all said and done.  I guess the size is what got expensive. 

[Lurch]

Holy hell, and here I thought I was doing you a favor by packaging them in boxes. I've never heard of 'dimensonal weight before', although after reading through the UPS site I'm not really sure shipping them unboxed would have saved much. The only extra dimension the box added really was length as the fenders were pretty snug in there, and even the added length was not that much more.

 

http://www.ups.com/content/us/en/resources/ship/packaging/dim_weight.html

 

Bottom line, it sucks. Major rip off for something that weighted 10lbs. Sorry to hear that Troy, I know you were trying to find the most cost effective way to get them out there.

[89MJMILSPEC]

Future reference.... Grey hound ships too!!

[mvusse]

I shipped a set pf 3" Comanche lift springs once from OH to GA. Slapped a shipping label on them and dropped them off, cost about $30 each IIRC.

[sinkrun]

Ouch........ expensive lesson learned today.........

 

So, thinking it'd save money and be a better option for shipping, I used the shipping account for the company my wife works for - boss approval and all. 

 

When we entered the info for the pick-up from Lurch and used the dimensions and weight he provided, UPS gave the "negotiated rate" price of $39 each fender.

 

Now, initially, I had asked Lurch to just "bubble-wrap the heck outta them" and slap a label on them.  Ultimately, he wrapped them and put them into wardrobe boxes. 

 

Lurch told me this and I expected the rate would go up a bit since the size had increased, but the weight shouldn't have by much since the initial info we'd given was a weight of 30 lbs each (when I got these home, I weighed them - 10 lbs each.)

 

Well, UPS boned me hard. 

 

The size of the wardrobe boxes had to be shipped using their "Dimensional Weight" calculations.  Essentially they charged me $55 each box for "Large Box" size which they say we didn't select when we were given the original negotiated rate.  THEN, they charged $105 for one box and $100 for the other box....... UPS says those boxes "dimensionally weigh" 180 lbs each.  the actual rate was reduced a bit when UPS applied the company's account rate.

 

I now owe $280 to cover the shipping.

 

HOLY BALLZ.  :fs1:

 

"Dimensional Weight"........ what a crock of  :bs:

 

Don't get me wrong, I'm not in the least mad at Lurch.......... but UPS can go smoke a pole.  Neither of those boxed should have weighed more than 40 lbs each all said and done.  I guess the size is what got expensive. 

If you ever have to do this again or anyone else go GREYHOUND EXPRESS SHIPPING they ship across the country insured and can be tracked. Its the only way to ship oversize items only catch you have to pick them up at a bus depot they call you when it arrives go pick it up. I bet these would have been around $20.00 box with the Grey Hound. UPS sucks @$$ anymore I ship everyday and refuse to use them anymore.