Biotex Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 I suppose a little background info is in order. I had an 88 2wd that I was just about to convert to 4wd. After running the numbers, I realized I could sell the 88 and purchase a later model 4wd ready to go, and come out money ahead. Didn't take but about a week to find Maura. Maura was named for an ex-girlfiend by the previous owner, and i'm keeping the name because i have some very fond memories of an ex-girlfiend named Maura. Of course wifey doesn't know this. I just told her that was her name, so might as well keep it. :crossfingers: Maura is in NC, and i'm in far west TX, so I start asking around and find a good friend who is going to be right next door, but in two months. He is willing to drive her back, as long as i pay expenses. Cool deal I figure. I'm not worried about breaking down too much because Maura only has 400 miles on a brand new engine. I looked over the build thread from all the work previously done, and am happy and satisfied that she has a clean bill of health. So a couple of weeks go by, and i'm literaly going nuts trying to figure a way to get Maura sooner. I checked every mode of transportation available, and am just about to give up when I get called to Florida due to a death in the family. It is over a thousand dollars per person to fly round trip, so I decided to fly to NC and drive Maura back myself. :clapping: The 1500 mile trip was for the most part uneventfull, but it did afford me the opportunity to meet Ryan and his sweet cherokee. I'm going to definately steal some of his ideas. Ok, so fast forward to once Maura is sitting in my shop. Everything under the hood is pretty much like new, so nothing really needed there for the time being. The interior is also to my liking. Would be nice to someday upgrade to an XJ all power interior, but I do like it the way it is. It is clean and simple. So for now I am going to consentrate on the exterior. The plan is to repair the rusted wheel well arches, and prep for paint. Not sure what color yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 So, today I took off the rear bumper. It needed a bit of straightening, so I made a jig and used a hydraulic jack to get the worst of it out. Had a bed liner inside, but I took it out. I will spray some U-pol Raptor instead. After the paint of course. Bed is in nice shape. Good surprise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 Got started on the wheel well arches. Here is after removing the flares: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 After removing the loose stuff" Then cutting out the rust: And then tacking in some new metal: I sprayed ospho inside before shutting it up. I think in the desert climate I live, it will be good for many years. I will go back and weld shut all the pinholes before applying a fiber hair bondo. Maybe AllMetal would be a good choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtnClimber Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Really diggin the interior. I gotta find a woodgrain dash for mine :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrz Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Nice platform to start with, any idea what those seats came out of? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 Really diggin the interior. I gotta find a woodgrain dash for mine :thumbsup: Hmm! I'm thinking of swapping it for a black one myself. I'm not a fan of woodgrain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 Nice platform to start with, any idea what those seats came out of? 2002 Pontiac Grand AM GT http://comancheclub.com/topic/25441-02-grand-am-gt-2-dr-seats-in-a-comanche-with-pics/page__hl__grand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86customanche Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 looks good. Didnt take too long after the trip to start fixing her up. Any specific goals in mind? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 Any specific goals in mind? Good question. I suppose I could save my self some heartache and money if I were to make a decision. After seein and riding in Ryans Comanche, I was H<ll bent on a Clayton longa arm, ACOS, disco's, BW flares etc... But, being realistic, I have a maxed out Rubicon for any cofortable off road stuff, and a dedicated rock buggy for the rest. I don't need that kind of clearance, and I certainly don't want to have to upgrade the axles right off. So, I'm on the list for a set of military wrapped rear springs that once installed should net me an inch or two of lift. Once I figure that out, I will lift the front to match. Perhaps the ACOS to even it out. I'm one for upgrading the steering parts, so most likely the ZJ V8 route there. For tires, Either a 235 or a 30" which ever is larger. I believe the 30" tire is a touch larger. If I lose too much power, due to the gearing, then I would like to look into a Ford 8.8 with disc brakes. They are cheap and easy to find with 3.55 gearing. I think they are about one inch narrower, but will investigate that when and if the time comes. If I have to swap the rear, and regear the front, then I'm going to have to rethink the whole project. Do I really need larger tires with a 1 or 2" lift??? I'm sure you all have gone through this thought process many times. For now, I'm going to prep for paint, bedline with U-Pol Raptor and repair the leaking front output seal. After those two things have been completed, the rest is easy and fun stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 Removed the cab vent and tailights. I talked with an engineer for the company that makes replacement door hinge pins. He specializes in Chrysler cars, so he told me that is is unlikely that the hinge itself would be worn where the pin goes through. The new pins ar only $12.95 a set. so I ordered them. He also gave me a tip on removing the old ones. Said to use the new pin to drive the old one out, and it will just take its place. Sounds easy enough, and i won't have to take the door off. BTW, my welds are fine. No movement there. Just at the hinge pins. Also removed the emblems That's it for now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 I'll be interested to see if new roll pins does the trick on the doors. Certainly better than reaming the hinges and installing bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 :eek: I'd say that's worth the 1500 mile drive! That might be the nicest interior I have ever seen in any vehicle that's not a Cadillac. Good luck and hopefully it'll be a fun experience for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 Thank you! I wish I could take credit for the interior, but nope... He did it^^^^ :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Nice start Eric. Are you going to paint it yourself or are you just taking care of the prep? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 Nice start Eric. Are you going to paint it yourself or are you just taking care of the prep? I do all my own body work and paint. I'm pouring a foundation right now to add on to my shop. Just so happens it will be the perfect size for a paint room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted February 2, 2013 Author Share Posted February 2, 2013 Removed the bed today. Came off pretty easy really. I will undercoat everything before reassembly and paint. Dropping the tank with it full, by myself, was no fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted February 2, 2013 Author Share Posted February 2, 2013 Oh, I steam cleaned everything already, but getting too dark for pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 Looks nice and solid with only a little surface rust. :clapping: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted February 4, 2013 Author Share Posted February 4, 2013 Today I replaced the driver side door hinge pins. It made a huge difference. Now I don't have to lift up on the door to close it. $19 total cost. Below you can see that I used a punch to drive the old pin out with the new pin taking its place. For the bottom hinge, I had to pound upwards, but for the top pin I could pound down. Wasn't too difficult. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrz Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 It's coming along good, what brand undercoating did you decide to use on the frame? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted February 5, 2013 Author Share Posted February 5, 2013 It's coming along good, what brand undercoating did you decide to use on the frame? I'm going with all Eastwood stuff. For the frame, i'm using POR-15 on the outside, for the inside, internal frame coating. For the sheetmetal, 3M rubberized undercoating. I may get two cans of the internal frame coating so I can use the 24" hose it comes with, and reach inside the wheel arches area. Be nice to get some coating in there after I acid etch it. Body work to start this week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 Door hinge fix looked like it worked out nicely :thumbsup: What are your bodywork plans for the front 1/2 ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted February 5, 2013 Author Share Posted February 5, 2013 Door hinge fix looked like it worked out nicely :thumbsup: What are your bodywork plans for the front 1/2 ? Yeah, the top hinge was good and tight after the new pin. The bottom one got only about 50% better, but enough so that the door closes nice and tight without slamming it shut. For the front half just needs a bit of rocker work and align the hood. Should go quite nice. Removing all the chrome and trim will be the worst of it IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted February 7, 2013 Author Share Posted February 7, 2013 Got the military wrapped springs installed today. Joe from General Spring Co. gave us a great deal on a group buy. They ended up lifting Maura 1 1/2". See this thread for more info on this. http://comancheclub.com/topic/36694-military-wrapped-springs-with-lift-group-buy/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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